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Hey guys. I just finished my first handrail job. It was a repair to a existing handrail for a business where some guy drove his truck into the handrail and took out a section of it. The job went well and I wrapped it up yesterday with a coat of rustoleum rusty metal primer. I wasn't able to get to the finish coat (using rustoleum gloss black in a spray can. Both this and the primer were bought from lowes). Yesterday morn was pretty warm 60 degrees ish and no rain. I told the guy Id try to get back this morn to finish the paint job and get my check, but now I woke up this morn and its raining. So Looks like rain and some colder weather the next few days. The nearest decent day in the forcast is sunday (50s and cloudy). They guy wants the job done, and I want my check. Anyone have any experience painting their repairs/projects outdoors in the winter months?? To add to it, the guy really doesn't want me there before 10 am all week because thats when they open for business. I don't want to spray a paint job that wont stick, but what am I to do during these months where you can't expect warm dry days all the time???Edit: right now its 53 and 78 percent humidity (12pm) here. It did rain pretty decent this morn so my repair (with primer on it) surely got wet, but now it looks like its warming up and it hasn't rained in 3 hrs. Should I go for it??Last edited by outdoort; 02-24-2016 at 12:40 PM.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Rustoleum dries very slow. Your best bet is to heat the parts to about 150 degrees and paint them. If it is raining you will need to cover it up with a tarp or something. If it is above 40 degrees the paint will dry but it will take some time. the heating will help . Not much more you can do than that.
Reply:Originally Posted by thegaryRustoleum dries very slow. Your best bet is to heat the parts to about 150 degrees and paint them. If it is raining you will need to cover it up with a tarp or something. If it is above 40 degrees the paint will dry but it will take some time. the heating will help . Not much more you can do than that.
Reply:i don't think there is much you can do except wait. your client, who is a male, should know you cant successfully paint in the rain. You gotta watch the weather yourself if you are working outdoors. If you had known rain was coming by checking earlier in the week on your phone, you would have welded, clean, primed and painted faster. now you gotta wait.
Reply:Some paints can be used down to freezing temps, and I think the rusty metal primer is one of them. I used it recently for some similar work. Did you check the label on the paint? Water based finish might be better as it dries faster. If it doesn't hold up, the owner can sand, prime, and repaint when the weather is better. There is only so much you can do when working around the weather.Miller 330abpMiller 211 inverter, M150 spool gunMiller 135Miller 375 Extreme plasmaCNC plasma table (build in progress)Femi 120abs portable band sawMany other toolsToo little garage spaceNot enough money
Reply:Originally Posted by outdoortCould I heat it up like that with the current primer on it. I got a torpedo heater to heat my garage I guess I could use
Reply:Also.For smaller piecesI throw them in the weber propane grill for 10-15 minutesSent from my iPhone using TapatalkMiller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Ya I guess its probably just a dumb question I posed then. He'll just have to wait. The railing is already installed on site, so there is no way it's going back to my garage lol. I was just wondering what those of us that work installing railings and such do during the winter, but it would make sense that most guys are prob painting in their garage or sending the rail/gate sections out to be powdercoated before the install happens.Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:If it's in the 50's and relatively dry you can paint. Just tell the customer it won't dry fast. MikeOl' Stonebreaker "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:Not that it will help you now, but... you could have sprayed the black right after you applied the rusty metal and let it all dry together. Next time. You just have to insure light coats so that it won't run.
Reply:Temperature in the 50s isn`t that bad for painting steel.I work offshore (north sea) and it is colder than 55F pretty much half of the year.Regarding the weather, the painters on the rig always check a couple of things before they start: *if it rains *steeltemperature (during the night steel temperatures fall. They rise again during the day but there is always a lag in movement of steel temperature compared to the atmospheric condition, so condensation on the steelsurface is possible)*dewpoint and *difference between dewpoint and steeltemperatureOff course they use 2 component epoxy and polyurethane coatings and not rattlecans Some info on the subject:http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/as...e-weather.aspxhttp://www.international-pc.com/reso...pplication.pdfhttp://www.rust.co.uk/dew-point-calculator/t25/http://www.dpcalc.org/
Reply:Very useful info, especially about dew point. BTW, for those in the USA www.weather.gov shows the dew point on the hourly graph. Good idea to check before you start sprayin'.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Originally Posted by treeshadeNot that it will help you now, but... you could have sprayed the black right after you applied the rusty metal and let it all dry together. Next time. You just have to insure light coats so that it won't run.
Reply:Originally Posted by bluemoonTemperature in the 50s isn`t that bad for painting steel.I work offshore (north sea) and it is colder than 55F pretty much half of the year.Regarding the weather, the painters on the rig always check a couple of things before they start: *if it rains *steeltemperature (during the night steel temperatures fall. They rise again during the day but there is always a lag in movement of steel temperature compared to the atmospheric condition, so condensation on the steelsurface is possible)*dewpoint and *difference between dewpoint and steeltemperatureOff course they use 2 component epoxy and polyurethane coatings and not rattlecans Some info on the subject:http://www.yachtpaint.com/usa/diy/as...e-weather.aspxhttp://www.international-pc.com/reso...pplication.pdfhttp://www.rust.co.uk/dew-point-calculator/t25/http://www.dpcalc.org/
Reply:Rattlecans are obvious the easiest option, it loooks smooth but the coating thickness you get with rattlecans is very thin.For larger surfaces and for railings/gates with a lot of "air" between the steel, you need a shi*tload of rattlecans do get a decent coating thickness.Brush and roller might be cheaper......I made "something" from an old airtank at home a couple of weeks ago, and I asked the rigpainter for some good paint.Actually I only needed a pint of primer and a pint of finish, but he gave me a couple of gallons of 2K offshore quality paint, can`t complain
Reply:Check with an industrial paint supplier like Sherwin Williams or the like. They should have better support on what the limits on painting conditions should be. I myself like their products for industrial applications. We also have a Sherwin Williams store that supplies commercial companies so they make good recommendations for individual applications.Dan D.Manipulator Of Metal
Reply:A 3-4 inch wide by 1/4" nap roller is great for small items like steel tube fencing and handrails. If the conditions are right, the paint will flow out and be fairly smooth. Brushing can leave an even smoother finish, but oils tend to drag if you over work them or it is very hot or dry outside. Thinning or adding pentrol or other additives can help the flow. I have used a lot of rustoleum oil in quart and gallon cans. I used to brush the red doors on the front of Carl's Jr fast food joints. Trash gates and steel slab doors were cut in with a brush and then rolled with a 6" wide roller.Spraying is a waste of paint, and often the overspray is a problem. It takes a fair amount of time to clean up an airless or conventional gun, and thinners are damn expensive now. With the right techniques, it can be faster to brush or roll. You can bend the roller handles to give you a better angle when painting. If you use a roller cover for water based product, put it in a bucket of water and later clean it out and let it dry. It will work well for finish coats where you don't want lint in the paint. New covers are more likely to leave lint.Rustoleum oil finish dries fast if you thin it with Acetone, from what I recall. Check the label. Paint thinner didn't allow it to dry as fast.Miller 330abpMiller 211 inverter, M150 spool gunMiller 135Miller 375 Extreme plasmaCNC plasma table (build in progress)Femi 120abs portable band sawMany other toolsToo little garage spaceNot enough money
Reply:You might have to kick up the price of paint to an automotive A+B paint using a fast dry solvent, still using all the ideas posted above about preheating area ect. Thinners can be bought fast, medium and slow. I would use the rustoleum 9800 urethane mastic, but I don't know what its temp range is.
Reply:Originally Posted by thegaryRustoleum dries very slow...
Reply:Not that it helps you now but it may in the future. We usually prefab rail sections in the shop, then prime and paint. That just leaves small areas where sections are welded together to be touched up, along with any scratches that may have occurred during installation. If the customer wants powdercoat we'll prefab in shop and dry fit on site, create sleeve or bolted joints where necessary and then disassemble and send to powdercoat.
Reply:Ive really been trying to educate myself lately on the different paints out there and what's recommended. Looks like a LOT of options and types paints from the different manufactures. So far today, the ppg paint guy on the phone told me if i want the best type use a : epoxy primer (two part) and a urethane paint (two part). For general use, i might prefer a paint i dont have to mix a hardener with (ie, no isocyanite). Anyone have a good paint they reccomend? Isocyanite or not?Dynasty 200DX (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864 (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:How much rail? Would it be possible to remove it at close and return with if when open for business? Then you only have a joint to paint. Could it be a bolt, screw or glue on repair?
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderHow much rail? Would it be possible to remove it at close and return with if when open for business? Then you only have a joint to paint. Could it be a bolt, screw or glue on repair?
Reply:I got to watch a pro painter use Rustoleum over weekend. After the primer, he went for first coat of color, you couldn't even see the color it was such a light coat. He waited 30min in 70* plus building before he added another light coat, then waited about 20min to added another. By the time he was done, he went over it about 8 times. He said that Rustoleum is one of the hardest paints to dry, #1 mistake people do is try put too much on in one shot. It looked unbelievable when he was done, but wow, time consuming. I know this isn't really an option in your situation now, but just thought i'd share for future.
Reply:I would try to paint in the afternoon, after the steel has gotten warmed up for the day. If you try to paint in the morning, the steel is usually more likely to be colder than the air, and you're more likely to get dew/condensation on it.I'd also be careful not to apply too many coats too fast. If you do, with some paints, you can get solvent entrapment, and it will take forever to dry.This is why I try not to paint anything. For this small job it makes sense for you to do the painting. You can buy those cheap 10x10' canopies that the soccer moms use to watch their kids in the summer. They pack small and can let you finish work if the rain is light and the wind isn't too fierce. With regards to an earlier suggestion to heat up the rattle cans. Remember they can and do explode when heated above 120F. While I like the general idea, it make sense to avoid over heating the can. Just setting them in the truck passenger footwell with the heat blowing on them while driving to the job site is probably enough warming to make them spray and dry quickly. A sunny afternoon will make a big difference too as the pipe rail will soak up quite a bit of heat from the sun.But keep in mind for the future that you can subcontract work like painting to an expert, and concentrate on what you do best. Sometimes for bigger projects it just makes sense to let an expert handle the painting. Just pass the cost along through to the customer. Just a thought for the future...Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector |
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发表于 2021-8-31 22:13:43