Aluminium rim repair?

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Anyone here fix car and truck rims? Im following a few people on instagram that do rims but really cant talk to them about the process. Ive got a 20" that I got from a friend. He bashed it wheeling  surprise. Ive bent it back with a portapower quite a bit. Anybody have tips.and.tricks? Im in school now so im not touching the welding untill im comfortable and percice. Attached Images
Reply:fwiw.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...num+truck+rimsJust a couple welders, big hammers, grinders, and torches.Work will free you.Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it. Trump/Carson 2016-2024
Reply:Yikes!!i think I'd throw that puppy away
Reply:If I cant get it true and feel confident about it ill throw it. Worth a shot, new one is a few hundred
Reply:Don't touch it...You have no idea what you are getting yourself into......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Sell it for scrap. Or use it for welding practice.
Reply:It can be fixed but for safety sake, it really should be disposed of. Or cut in half to make some leads or hose hangars. The structural integrity has been compromised. Personally, I wouldn't risk it.
Reply:We used to take the bends and creases out with an O/A setup, we heated it up, and gave the side a good whack and it usually popped back into place, the metals "memory" usually bright it back to near original.That long crack along the edge there... That's a killer I think, I'm all for ****ing around and trying to make it work, but that is a little too big. Fix at your own riskMiller Spoolmate 200 w/t S-52 WirefeederMM 211'09 Miller Trailblazer 302
Reply:Did one similar to it one time with spool gun for a buddy,yea allrite lets go muddin again! Ya know it's a bitch changing atire in two foot of mud! Go ahead, it makes for good experience any way.
Reply:I'm probably going to try and fix it in school.won't cost me anything but I'm probably not going to use it.I like a challenge, just like building my bumper and head rack.
Reply:Originally Posted by Roubo8895I'm probably going to try and fix it in school.won't cost me anything but I'm probably not going to use it.I like a challenge, just like building my bumper and head rack.
Reply:Thats what I planning. I'm going to get heat into the whole rim so I'm not sucking jest from my weld and so I get good penetration. It's probably a little over a 1/4 inch thick.
Reply:Originally Posted by Roubo8895Thats what I planning. I'm going to get heat into the whole rim so I'm not sucking jest from my weld and so I get good penetration. It's probably a little over a 1/4 inch thick.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ian DuffinFor 1/4 I usually run about 225 AC, 1/8 tungsten, I wouldn't heat the whole rim, just the part you're working on, that crack, and the bend...I forget what a good preheat temp is, but they seek these little temp crayons that change color when your at the right temp, find one for aluminumUse 1/8 4043 wire, and let the weld cool slowly, and when you are cutting out the crack use a cutter designed for aluminum so you don't introduce contaminants into the weld puddle
Reply:Vertical cracks are ok to fix (from inside towards outside), horizontal cracks along an edge or bead like that are a throw away deal.12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Originally Posted by Roubo8895Do you think its worth going from center out a little at a time to control warping ? Or will aluminium this thick help disperse the heat from the weld
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTVertical cracks are ok to fix (from inside towards outside), horizontal cracks along an edge or bead like that are a throw away deal.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ian DuffinNot really, but that just me, I would start from one end and run it right to the end, start the weld a little before the crack and end a little after, both sides..Also, practice aluminum welding on some aluminum pipe if you can find it, scrap, whatever, post some pictures, I understand you said you were going to schoolI didn't start welding on hyper critical parts, get some time under the hood with aluminum, it'll be worth it, settings can only do so much
Reply:They aren't hard to "fix", the problem is all the pressure will be on the fix so if any one part of it isn't right it can fail and when those types fail chunks can come out and can be pretty bad. Even just inflating the tire the wheel can blow apart and kill.With vertical fixes the pressure of the tire/bead is still "held" by the good wheel around the fix. So even if the "fix" fails the crack will just open up again and let the air out. Normally no big blown out chunks or complete failure.12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTThey aren't hard to "fix", the problem is all the pressure will be on the fix so if any one part of it isn't right it can fail and when those types fail chunks can come out and can be pretty bad. Even just inflating the tire the wheel can blow apart and kill.With vertical fixes the pressure of the tire/bead is still "held" by the good wheel around the fix. So even if the "fix" fails the crack will just open up again and let the air out. Normally no big blown out chunks or complete failure.
Reply:Did some searching trying to find out which aluminum alloy(s) they use for rims.   Found the information to be a little hard to track down.   Did find 2 general references to A.356 being used for that purpose.   Based on that I think it needs be considered whether or not some of the design strength of the rim is due to a heat treat condition.   While I'm pretty sure some pre heat (up to around 300F) would be really benifical in getting a successful repair, holding it at to high a temp for to long could result in ruining its temper condition).Starting on page 22 there's some good info on cast aluminum alloys.   http://www.pa-international.com.au/i...nd-Tempers.pdf
Reply:Originally Posted by HT2-4956Did some searching trying to find out which aluminum alloy(s) they use for rims.   Found the information to be a little hard to track down.   Did find 2 general references to A.356 being used for that purpose.   Based on that I think it needs be considered whether or not some of the design strength of the rim is due to a heat treat condition.   While I'm pretty sure some pre heat (up to around 300F) would be really benifical in getting a successful repair, holding it at to high a temp for to long could result in ruining its temper condition).Starting on page 22 there's some good info on cast aluminum alloys.   http://www.pa-international.com.au/i...nd-Tempers.pdf
Reply:Assuming for the time being that this is a cast A356.0 alloy rim it looks like it's a pretty close race between 4043, 4047, 4145 & 4008 as far as best filler rod goes.   5xxx series rod is specifically not recommended.This filler metal selection chart has been around for quite a while (I've seen it in one form or another for at least the past 30 years) so it may not reflect some of the recent advances (like 4943).http://www.maxal.com/files/QuickSite...g_9-12_doc.pdfThis is another good read that some one else just posted a link to in another thread.   If you want to get more familiar with the science of aluminum TIG (and MIG) welding I highly recommend it as a good read.   I could see using it as part of the course material for teaching a class on Aluminum TIG welding.http://www.maxal.com/files/QuickSite...g_9-12_doc.pdf