First table.

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I thought I'd wait on this but I'd like input before I weld it all up. I have a 1/2" 8' long and 4'1" deep I cut legs out of 2.5" box steel I believe it's 3/8" thick. The height of my legs are 40" because I don't like bending over to work on stuff and I believe I'll be able to pull up a stool to work on stuff. I don't remember what my cross beams are but I have 6-1/2" over hang on the sides and about 2.5" front an rear. I'm driving to Lancaster so I can't get exact measurements of cross beams and such. Any input would be helpful Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Rather than 2 1/2" OH, I'd go 4", guaranteed that way your deep throat c-clamps and your VG c-clamps will go all the way to the back of the throat without running into the support, just personal preference. Have you considered screwing the top down rather than welding to prevent warpage? I like the idea of threaded (or not) 5/8" holes for easy clamping into the middle of the table...others prefer cutting slots to ensure easy clamping with the clamps they have. Dont forget the reciever tube for your vise, bench grinder and anvil etc, wheels, leg levellers, expanded steel shelves to let dirt fall to the floor, grinder storage bar, electric outlet and an air outlet to make sure everything close at hand.  And don't forget that you have enough room for hammock and a beer cooler under there!! Otherwise sounds like a killer table. Make sure you keep us posted, cheers  Last edited by bearston; 01-24-2015 at 04:27 PM.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:Originally Posted by bearstonRather than 2 1/2" OH, I'd go 4", guaranteed that way your deep throat c-clamps and your VG c-clamps will go all the way to the back of the throat without running into the support, just personal preference. Have you considered screwing the top down rather than welding to prevent warpage? I like the idea of threaded (or not) 5/8" holes for easy clamping into the middle of the table...others prefer cutting slots to ensure easy clamping with the clamps they have. Dont forget the reciever tube for your vise, bench grinder and anvil etc, wheels, leg levellers, expanded steel shelves to let dirt fall to the floor, grinder storage bar, electric outlet and an air outlet to make sure everything close at hand.  And don't forget that you have enough room for hammock and a beer cooler under there!! Otherwise sounds like a killer table. Make sure you keep us posted, cheers
Reply:A 12" plate would stick out 4 3/4" all around if welded center of the leg and extend out beyond the top, definately creating a trip hazard / PIA. Given the weight of the table (8-900 lbs), tipping wouldn't be much of an issue unless placed on a hill or hit by a truck. 5" or 6" square plates should be large enough for dirt and if you attached a screw to them, they could double as levellers. I think 1/4" plate would be plenty maintaining a reasonably low profile at the same time. Are you looking at 6 or 8 legs?Last edited by bearston; 01-24-2015 at 06:00 PM.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:4 legs unfortunately I could always add more later but the material I got for the table I only had enough material for 4 legs Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Just so you know I know there's better ways to build it. I paid 80$ for everything for the table Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:No doubt a good deal, but without any support in the middle, an 8 foot span is gonna sag (not flat) and reflect on your work. It will bounce when you hammer on it, too. At least a couple of legs in the middle, even if weak and pathetic is better than nothing. If you're broke, keep an eye out for a discarded bedframe using the angle for temporary support. I can usually find T-bar at the side of the road. 8 feet of the same tube for similar legs shouldn't be more than $10.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:I have 1-1/2" square stock I think it's 1/8 wall. If I double that up would that be sufficient? I should make a drawing I thought with the 2.5" cross beams attached to the legs I thought I'd be alrightSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:That 4'1" x 8' plate comes in at aprox 673 lbs. and lifting it onto your support stand and then moving it into place is going to be a tough enough job... I suppose that 1.5" stock would be ok for temporary support, but why not just build it once? Taking it 1/2 apart once you build it to finish it seems unwise use of your time and resources.You got an incredible deal on the steel, if there's not enough to build a truly solid base, save for the next month or two to get the rest of the steel that you do need because building a twisted and warped table will be more frustrating and reputation damaging when your work results from said table is sub par. Build it once and build it right, you will thank yourself for that.When a welder tells you to "stick it", what do they really mean?"In a time of universal deceit, telling the truth is a revolutionary act." - George Orwell
Reply:Okay. I suppose I need exact measurements to get a better idea of everything. For building it I was going to build it upside down. And try to flip it over burying 4x4 wood posts were the legs are or the top is to begin with and just pulling it over. I don't have anything I'd trust to lift it. I could weld a lifting tab to the middle of it but the only lifting device I have is an engine hoist and I'm nervous using it with something this size. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:This is my initial setup. I was hoping to not have to add another leg. If it must be done then it must be done. I still have to buy steel to build the shelf but I'll get there when I have the time and money. If anyone can see anything that is wrong with this layout please point it out. And the table is upside down so I hae a fairly straight area to work on and to show plate size. The frame isn't centered on the top just there for fit up Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:All welded out. 1/8 7018. Put them in my new rod oven.... No weld pics yet. Most of them suck. Think I may do a second pass on most of it in 5/32 7018Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Getting ready to put the top onSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:As suggested I will be adding another leg at some point. I want to build the shelf first and figure out how to fix the top as I got this from a scrapper trying to cut it up I'm thinking clamp with angle iron on the bottom and weld it up. With a good bevel of course and 6010 all the way out. There's another section cut too should I preheat this or should I be okay just runnin beads?Last edited by strtspdlx; 02-06-2015 at 07:31 PM.