Best way to join these 2 pieces?

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This is part of a burner assembly for a propane forge. The tapered gas fitting gets drilled horizontally on the wide end and the silver gas tube gets inserted in that hole going completely across the large open end of the fitting. I have two options for joining them: JB Weld or MIG. I'm uncertain about using the MIG because I've never done any welding on gas pipe fittings. Perhaps a tricky/specialized process? Also the thicknesses of the two are very, very different and it would be tough for me just from that standpoint. Any suggestions? Attached Images
Reply:Find someone that knows what  they are  doing  with a tig.......zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:The nipple is cast from China that tells me it may not weld very good. The other part looks chromed, it may be copper. Brazing it would be the best bet.www.georgesplasmacuttershop.comPlasma Cutter and Welder Sales and Repairs--Ebay storeTec.Mo. Dealer Consumables for the PT and IPT torch's
Reply:There are a couple easier ways to build a burner. In this one I followed Ron Reils directions and used a brass reducer fitting to create a collet to hold my burner tip.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ge-and-furnaceEven easier is to follow Frosty's T burner directions over on IFI. If I was going to build another burner, his would be the design I'd choose. IFI is also THE place to get info on building gas forges. A word of caution though, some there don't take too kindly to someone who doesn't do a decent search 1st. 9 times out of 10 most of the questions have been answered multiple times already. Show you did a reasonable search and have specific questions and you won't have any issues. Frosty himself is always very helpful.http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/4397...ed-directions/You might also consider silver solder to hold your tip in your existing design.  You will of course have to clean the galvi from around your hole to get a good bond. I'd avoid JB weld simply because most burners end up over the forge and can end up getting fairly warm. I'm not sure how weld JB weld would hold up to the temps over most of the gas forges I've used. Be sure and post up your build. Plenty of guys here interested in forging and there haven't been to many propane forge builds posted yet..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:What metals are they ? How hot is is this going to get?
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThere are a couple easier ways to build a burner. In this one I followed Ron Reils directions and used a brass reducer fitting to create a collet to hold my burner tip.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ge-and-furnaceEven easier is to follow Frosty's T burner directions over on IFI. If I was going to build another burner, his would be the design I'd choose. IFI is also THE place to get info on building gas forges. A word of caution though, some there don't take too kindly to someone who doesn't do a decent search 1st. 9 times out of 10 most of the questions have been answered multiple times already. Show you did a reasonable search and have specific questions and you won't have any issues. Frosty himself is always very helpful.http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/4397...ed-directions/You might also consider silver solder to hold your tip in your existing design.  You will of course have to clean the galvi from around your hole to get a good bond. I'd avoid JB weld simply because most burners end up over the forge and can end up getting fairly warm. I'm not sure how weld JB weld would hold up to the temps over most of the gas forges I've used. Be sure and post up your build. Plenty of guys here interested in forging and there haven't been to many propane forge builds posted yet.
Reply:You want to cover the kaowool with a rigidizer like ITC 100 vs furnace cement. You definitely want to coat the kaowool. There's a guy over on IFI, Wayne Cook, who sells everything you need as far as insulating blanket, rigidizer ( though he has a different one than IRC 100 IIRC, not that it matters his is just as good but a bit less money) and insulating bricks,I see a couple problems with that design. They have the flame inside the burner. The flame should be at the end of the burner, not inside it. The door is too high. If you have small parts it will be tough to get to them easily. You'll want something like kiln shelf or insulating fire brick on the bottom to bring the floor up near the door height. That's especially true if you want to do forge welding  like for pattern welded steel ( Damascus) The flux will destroy the kaowool. Having a kiln shelf or insulating brick floor makes it easy to take the floor out and replace it as the flux deteriorates it with out having to completely reline the forge.Post that video up on Iforgeiron and I'm sure the guys will point out a lot of other issues with that whole design besides the ones I have posted already. The flame coming out of the door looks completely wrong. I'm thinking it's way too rich but the guys over on IFI who use propane primarily can explain whats needed better as far as tuning the forge.Of one thing to think about. The "new" OPV style valves often have issues with high flow demands like a forge. Larger cylinders like 40 lb or larger typically don't use OPV valves and are better for high demand uses. If you are lucky you may still be able to find one of the older 20lb BBQ cylinders without the OPV valve. Many filling places don't know that there is an exemption for cylinders used for cutting and heating. Cylinders for those uses can still use a nonOPV valve. I have no problem getting my older cylinders filled at my supplier. I would like to get a couple of 40 lb or better yet a 100lb cylinder for my new gas forge. It will help in the winter when the cylinders start to freeze up having the bigger cylinder to draw from..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Just drill a hole through both sides of the bell, drill two small set screw holes, insert tube and secure it with set screws. It makes it so you can correct the aim.
Reply:Silicon bronze is usually used to weld on galvanized steel which is what that looks to be.  it's what i'd use
Reply:First off that is an unregulated propane jet is not very safe. second that is not a fuel efficient way to use propane. If you are following the video.Klutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:...Definately do not want it fixed and unadjustable.  Drill holes as suggested.   This will be an experiment, so will need to be able to tune it.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerJust drill a hole through both sides of the bell, drill two small set screw holes, insert tube and secure it with set screws. It makes it so you can correct the aim.
Reply:Not to complicate matters, but you might also look at Majestic gas forges. For what it costs for one of their forges I'd have a tough time buying the materials to make my own.These forges are not as nice and well built as some others, but the price puts them well within reach of the occasional user. I have read reasonable reviews from guys who have bought them. I've debated back and forth if I ought to just buy one of theirs vs trying to continue working on building my own, or if I really want to bit the bullet and get a more expensive forge and be done with it.http://www.majesticforge.com/shop/If I had an order for say a bunch of bottle openers, I'd be really tempted to just buy one of their 2 or 3 burner forges and be done with it. In the end I have a feeling like so many tools, I'll end up with more than one gas forge so I can do the things I want to accomplish. A small shallow forge for multiple small items in production. A longer possibly wider gas forge for doing rings for wine racks and so on where I want a long even heat, yet still have enough room to put the partially completed ring back in to reheat if needed and so on. Just buying one huge gas forge wouldn't be at all cost effective for most small to mid size projects, but even mid size gas forges can be limiting. Building my wine rack last year, I was using 2 different gas forges, one long and narrow, one wider and shallower, and I still needed to occasionally use the coal forge to heat pieces I couldn't get to fit in either of the gas forges..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Nice little forges. Then I came across this one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DFS-Gas-Prop...EAAOSwPhdVQi4c That's looking mighty attractive for a small hobby forge.
Reply:Doug, just quit screwing around and go get this CHILE FORGE ! Habañero - Two burner forge  Price $869 plus shipping   Yea,getting up there in price,  Mothers Day is coming . http://www.chileforge.com/forges_habanero_details.htmlAttachment 1387811OR this,Cayenne - Oval two burner forge  Price $1099 plus shipping       http://www.chileforge.com/forges_jalapeno_details.htmlAttachment 1387821
Reply:I skipped over the previous post / reply's to your question. But you cannot weld that china pipe fitting to anything and the other piece looks like cheap copper/ chrome platted stuff. You need to seek out some one that know what they are doing.Miller TrailBlazer 251Miller HF-250-1Miller MaxStar 150 STLHyperTherm PowerMax 380 plasmaLincoln PowerMig 180Millermatic 252Miller Diversion 180
Reply:any one have experience in welding ductile pipe and making it leak proof?