How to fix a warped frame?

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I'm still beginning on welding and I have a problem with my first project.  I'm building a sliding gate frame that will be covered with wood. For that I choose to use C channel 2mm thick so that I can have the nuts be inside the channel.After I tacked the corners I welded it distributing the heat, it was all fine while it was on the ground, or laying againt the the wall (like the frame against the wall). But if it is supported by just one side it warps. It feels like a "tension spring". It also warp on both diagonals, so it is not one corner that is the problem. I can easily push the warped corner and it just twists across the plane. Both frames do that.Can it be fixed somehow?
Reply:Been there, done that! I'd try supporting / stopping the bottom C-channel from moving. Get a guy on each end at the top of the frame, and push in opposite directions, to rack the frame back in alignment.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:What CEP said ...if you are alone try to twist it back with bigger and longer pieces of steel or wood through the opening laying against the floor.gee not sure if i'm just adding confusion here lol
Reply:I think he is talking about a frame that will not stay true - it "pops" crooked one direction, then the other way.If that's what's happening,then it's a lesson in improper material - that style of channel, in that configuration, is free to twist out of plane.Channel has little resistance to twisting.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:That is the case Dave.Nothing to be done then? I think that after I put the wood up it will stay true.
Reply:What are you using for wood? If you are covering the whole thing with plywood or tongue and groove, just make sure it's flat when you do and it will likely stay once bolted. In the case of individual boards use 2 bolts or screws at each end of each board.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Originally Posted by luizbgomideThat is the case Dave.Nothing to be done then? I think that after I put the wood up it will stay true.
Reply:Another option is to pean the corner welds. This usually happens when one corner has a gap when welded causing one corner weld to pull harder than the rest. If you pean them some you might relieve the stress.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Here a video where the problem is more evident.Would it help if I add the blue "bracers" to the frame?
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjAnother option is to pean the corner welds. This usually happens when one corner has a gap when welded causing one corner weld to pull harder than the rest. If you pean them some you might relieve the stress.
Reply:Originally Posted by luizbgomideHow would I hammer it? Can I lay it flat on the ground and pound it? Do it need to be hot?
Reply:Thanks welderj, I will do that tomorrow. I will hit it one corner after the other and trying to see if it is working.Good thing that I waited before welding more channel, it could have made the problem worse.
Reply:Originally Posted by luizbgomideHere a video where the problem is more evident.
Reply:Originally Posted by luizbgomideHow would I hammer it? Can I lay it flat on the ground and pound it? Do it need to be hot?
Reply:What type and thickness of wood is going on it ? Full sheet of plywood ? IF you have the wood clamp it to the frame and see if it flattens it out and holds it where you want it.
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjDoes not need to be hot, but usually is. Needs to be on something hard, a piece of flat steel on the concrete will work, but an anvil is best. I just had another idea that might work and be easier for you. Get the frame clamped to a flat surface so it's flat, then hook a come along or ratchet strap corner to corner and try to pull it out of square just a little. Go both ways, but just a little. All your trying to do is relieve the stress that's pulling it out of square. Make sure it stays flat while you do it or you won't gain anything.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveGood video demonstration of why this is a weak design - the wood may help though.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1What type and thickness of wood is going on it ? Full sheet of plywood ? IF you have the wood clamp it to the frame and see if it flattens it out and holds it where you want it.
Reply:Originally Posted by luizbgomideDave, care to elaborate on why is it weak? If it was rectangular tubing would it be more stable? Is it the thickness (2mm)?I wanted to use a thicker angle iron (something like 3mm thick), but end up using C channel because I thought it would make it more stable.
Reply:Dave is right, if you cover both sides with wood, one a sheet, it will stay flat so no need to mess with it. Just make sure it's flat when you attach the wood.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Next time use tube. Channel is a bit floppy that way, as you found out.
Reply:ditto what dave said, if you cover both sides you will flatten it and it will be MUCH stronger than the channel alone. Sort of a box beam then.www.facebook.com/gstreetworksLincoln Power Mig 210 Miller Maxstar 150Lincoln Idealarc 250/250 G Street Works LLC
Reply:Your cross members aren't the same length as the end pieces. They are under tension or pressure. Cut them, it stops doing that. If they are too long, heat them red hot. When they cool they will shrink. If they are too short heat the end pieces.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BYour cross members aren't the same length as the end pieces. They are under tension or pressure. Cut them, it stops doing that. If they are too long, heat them red hot. When they cool they will shrink. If they are too short heat the end pieces.
Reply:Originally Posted by Burnt GloveI agree with Willie. I have had this happen to me as well. To remedy the situation I used a portaband and cut right through the middle of my welds at the outer 4 corners. This let everything relax. I then tacked all the corners and re-welded them.Originally Posted by luizbgomideDoing mitters with C channel was a terrible experience that I hope to never do again. I could cut it out and butt joint everything, but then I will have to do something on the "open ends". I think it will also be very difficult to square everything up.
Reply:If they are all at the correct distance, it could be that the long top and bottom have tried to turn corners. release the center two cross members, and it would pop out of straight. heating the outside as you have already heated the inside will relax it.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.