SA 200 Remote Control

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How big of a deal is it to build & install a remote control set up on an SA 200? It looks  fairly straight forward once the parts are gathered up. Any thoughts? Definitely easier to buy a kit and let someone else install it, but then what can a guy learn from that approach? (other than it probably will cost 5 times as much to do it myself.)  Also, who beside Lincoln offers a remote?  I know there are others, but can't recall them. Any recommendations? Thanks!Lake
Reply:I have a cables control. It works well and it has  a receptacl on the side to run a grinder.The price is not bad. and they send you instructions to install it your self. There phone number  is 318 281 1833 Bills welder repair most sell them to they have a websight.
Reply:what it cost
Reply:stumpf welding has them for 198 dollars. They want 89 dollars for just a   rheostat which you would need to make your own. Im not sure what else you would need to build it your self.When you bye the cables kit you also get the pigtail and good cole hersey three position toggle switch to wire to the machine. If you call Stumpf  ask them If that price includes every thing. There number is 618 566 4733 If you shop around you may find a better price.
Reply:Take the rheostat out of the face of the sa, mount it in a box with a standard 110 outlet and run the wires back to the same ones the rheostat was connected to. Boom, remote control and a power supply. You can hang the box on the front of the machine when not in use just like it was still there.SA200,Ranger8,Trailblazer251NT,MM250,Dayton225AC,T  D-XL75,SpoolMate3545SGA100C,HF-15-1  RFCS-14 When I stick it, it stays stuck!
Reply:Thanks for the info. It sounds too easy!
Reply:since it is not harmful to rotate the rheostat while welding you could even rig it up to a foot pedal and v-ola.SA200,Ranger8,Trailblazer251NT,MM250,Dayton225AC,T  D-XL75,SpoolMate3545SGA100C,HF-15-1  RFCS-14 When I stick it, it stays stuck!
Reply:Probably most of the readers on this forum know about this, but just in case, there is an aftermarket remote for your SA200 that offers many advantages over the unit that uses the large Lincoln rheostat. Here is a picture:http://www.flickr.com/photos/weldersales/2378470700/The neat features are that the cable you use with this unit is a cheap Home Depot extension cord of any length you choose, there is power for grinders, etc., at the remote, and the size is about 2" x 2" x2" - fits easily into your shirt pocket. Magnetic base is available.  weldersales
Reply:It's easy making one yourself, I'll give you all the instructions including what parts to get and how to wire it, though you'll have to email me for the [email protected]'t do what someone said and remove the local rheostat, thats just silly
Reply:Originally Posted by LakeHow big of a deal is it to build & install a remote control set up on an SA 200? It looks  fairly straight forward once the parts are gathered up. Any thoughts? Definitely easier to buy a kit and let someone else install it, but then what can a guy learn from that approach? (other than it probably will cost 5 times as much to do it myself.)  Also, who beside Lincoln offers a remote?  I know there are others, but can't recall them. Any recommendations? Thanks!Lake
Reply:i would also like some instructions too, if you dont mind. [email protected]
Reply:Thanks, Cruizer!Your directions are very easy to understand! It's obvious you've spent some time to put everything together! I'll let you know how it works out!Lake
Reply:Now, I don't personally use a "Square D" box, that was just a suggestion. I use a lazer cut box designed for this purpose
Reply:Originally Posted by banshee35i would also like some instructions too, if you dont mind. [email protected]
Reply:I bought a remote  from Alice Texas made by Weldtron Inc.... handiest little Jigger you ever did see, can't wait til my red face is all rebuilt and I get a p.line job to try it out on..I built one once.. just put a rheostat in a sheet metal cover vent it for heat escape . On your machine I just dropped down wires from the rheostat to a on/off switch then to a plug in and ground out the unit to your face sheet metal or frame. Use a 12-3 extension cord and run it to your remote box, when running your remote turn your machine rheostat to O, just in case of line backfeed.   Good luck
Reply:Originally Posted by banshee35guess i wont be getting wiring diagrams
Reply:Would it be possible for you to send me the instructions as [email protected]
Reply:Cruizer, can you email me instructions to build a [email protected]
Reply:Could you send me instructions also. Thank you. [email protected]
Reply:Coinsidering the date of this post, I think it's safe to say that we won't be getting those instructions from Cruizer. I doubt he still visits the WeldingWeb. If you want the nice little hand remote mentioned above, get ready to spend around 400 bucks or so. They must be selling them like crazy to charge that much for them. It probably isn't more than $100 in parts to build it.Last edited by k_chupe; 11-04-2009 at 05:22 PM.
Reply:here's the instructions from Cruzier!!!Parts required to add remote capabilities to a SA2001 – Handle for the box, pull handles from home depot work well1 - 6x6x4” steel enclosure (square “D” box works well for the do it yourselfer)1 – M5090C 64 ohm 150 watt rheostat1 – Standard household duplex plug (only on SA200 or Pipeliner 200)1 metal with rubber sleeve ½” strain relief1 – 3/8” knob for rheostat100’  length of cable preferably 14/3, though 16/3 works just as well. 20 amp 125 volt plug (any brand will do)20 amp 125 volt Hubbell receptacle (only Hubbell!) reason to  follow.1 on /on switch 2 pole double throwNow for the funYou’ll have to mill out the box to fit the rheostat and duplex plug. The duplex plug is what I would use, however, you can also buy the single plugs, way easier to mount in a Square “D” box by far. As my boxes are all laser cut.Wire the box with the cable you bought as follows:Wire through the new strain relief leaving around 3” of cable shield before you cut the shield off showing the wires. Green to bronze on the auxiliary duplex or what ever you picked up, if you have a couple of singles, you’ll have to string a matching wire over to the other receptacle same terminal.White to right outside terminal on rheostat. (terminals facing down looking at the back of the rheostat) Twin this white wire to the other side of the auxiliary receptacle.Black to center (wiper) of rheostatWire the plug Black to bronze, white to silver and green to the ground lug.Easy so far????OK now for the machine.You’ll want to get a 1 ½” step bit to cut the hole for the 20 amp 125 volt receptacle and switch right side lower legNow the reason for the Hubbell only receptacle is the ease at which to remove the grounding strap. Because you want the receptacle isolated, a little screw driver will pop this little filament out of there easily. No other receptacle has this little option.So …….Remove the 2 wires from the existing local rheostat keeping note of where they go and place them on the center of the new on/on switch, attach with some new 16 gage automotive wires to the bottom of the new switch back to the local rheostat. Add another set of new wires to the top of the switch and attach them to the bronze and silver of the new receptacle, won’t worry about which goes where right now,Attach a black wire to the “Ground lug” on the new receptacle and twin it into the existing fuse or direct to the existing receptacle, you’ll see 3 red wires on one side and one black on the other side, this black one is the one you want to go to.OK your done, run it up in remote mode, switches work in a diagonal fashion, in this case up will be local and down will be remotePlug a grinder in, what your looking for is if the grinder’s power can be controlled by turning the knob on the remote rheostat, if it can’t then all is good, if it can be adjusted, you’ll have to swap the black and white wires in the new remote plug .Whew………If you want to run a crawler using your remote that’s easy as well, you’ll have to cut the banding on the auxiliary receptacle to isolate the plugs, or add another receptacle.The green wire will have to be twinned and still go to the bronze terminal on the receptacle. Jumper a black wire from the center of the Rheostat to the silver on the isolated receptacle.
Reply:Thanks k_chupe and Cruiser too! Good to have #'s for the smaller rheostat, if that's what this turns out to be.Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Originally Posted by gizzardgutzThanks k_chupe and Cruiser too! Good to have #'s for the smaller rheostat, if that's what this turns out to be.
Reply:I have a Lincoln remote that works, but my Cable's remote doesn't on the same machine. The Cable's remote 110 outlet works within reason (slow to pickup speed), but it wont strike an arc. I bought the Cable's kit not just the remote and it comes with directions. Just waiting for warmer weather now....Classic 1D 200SAE 30086 SA 200Hyperthem 45Jancy Mag Force O/A Victor-GossCable's remote2-12" Mathey Dearman bevelersLN 25Miller Auto Set 211Wendy's Pancake/Jackson PipelinerNew Holland LS 180Great story man....tell it again!
Reply:I have installed my Cable’s remote and it was easy. It was wired up for a Lincoln remote that didn’t have the 110 power. Now I’m thinking of installing a 200A-200V digital readout onto the cable’s remote box. Not sure if this is possible or worth the effort.These readout are about $20.00 on eBay. Here is a link, check it out….http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:ITClassic 1D 200SAE 30086 SA 200Hyperthem 45Jancy Mag Force O/A Victor-GossCable's remote2-12" Mathey Dearman bevelersLN 25Miller Auto Set 211Wendy's Pancake/Jackson PipelinerNew Holland LS 180Great story man....tell it again!Huckxc, if you go to the AWS forum, there's a topic just for SA200's and I know Kaye will be able to answer any question you have. I'm thinking of buying a remote for mine. Let us know how the installation goes.
Reply:Thanks cajun I have never been to the AWS forum and believe these guys here will help.I asked a pipeliner about these Weldtron remotes….“not good in wet conditions and the 110 outlet plug burns out”.Classic 1D 200SAE 30086 SA 200Hyperthem 45Jancy Mag Force O/A Victor-GossCable's remote2-12" Mathey Dearman bevelersLN 25Miller Auto Set 211Wendy's Pancake/Jackson PipelinerNew Holland LS 180Great story man....tell it again!
Reply:I'm sorry but I see plenty of mis-information in this post.  So much in fact i just can't keep quiet any longer.   First - I disagree with Cruizer.  You don't wire the "black" wire to the center of the rheostat.  That black wire is the 120v wire that powers the grinder.  The White wire is the common and goes to on the usual common post of the plug.  This completes the grinder plug and the grind now works without the remote being plugged in to the cord.  The "green" wire is the remote wire.  Its the only wire you have left.  Thats the wire to the center of the rheostat.  The other rheostat wires is pig-tailed to the white wire (the common) and provides ground to make it work.Also - - - 16g extension cord isn't good.  12g is what you want.  The amount of current going to the rheostat isn't enough to merrit the 12g wire but the grinder circuit is.  Its 20 amps and 100' of cord - thats 12g wire.  Yes you can use a 15a fuse and 14g wire but you'll soon blow the fuse with a 9" Dewalt grinder then what????  You're down.  And the grinder will burn up a 16g 100' cord pretty quickly, IMO.I also disagree with his recommendation of using an "on-off" switch.  You need a SPDT switch.  That way you can select either Local or Remote.  I've been using remotes on 200's for about 30 years and I've never seen anyone use a SPST switch.  Also his confusing wiring instruction.      The "wide" prong on a plug is the Common and that means its the common ground.  You always put the common on the wide plug.  The Brass prong is the "HOT" and it always goes to the 120v circuit.  Thats typical electrical - nothing else.  The chassis ground - the green - is the only one left in a typical 3 wire cord for the rheostat control wire.  That one goes to the rheostat center post.If you have a Cables remote and it won't work - then check the orientation of the black and white wires in your plug. lol  I've never ask Mike why he does it that way but I can assume why I guess.  lolAgain, Only Im My Opinion - of courseLater manLast edited by slowhand; 03-08-2011 at 08:48 PM.