Repairing tractor front end loader

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We have a large front end loader that gets heavy use scooping feed.This is a picture of the model I am talking about, for reference.It broke in this area, and was welded so that it functions, but it is far from right. I was told it leans one way when down and the other when it is raised up. I do not have a picture of the repair. To fix it, I was wondering what is the best way to go about it? Cut it off straight and make that portion, cut it off at an angle, and make new part, weld plate to either side of new piece when installed or weld tubing around the repair?It usually resides on a 150hp tractor, but it that's what it was manufactured to fit.Thanks for your help.
Reply:First thing I would do is take a bunch of measurements and find out what "good" looks like.  It's possible (maybe even probable) that there was bending elsewhere in the loader before that area cracked.  Once I figured out if there were other bends/cracks, I'd start working on what it would take to put the whole unit back into spec instead of just looking at the one area.--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:I agree wintermute's reply above!A lot of "stuff" will get tweeked before a major failure happens. Is this on a new (to you) loader, or one that you've had? (I see the auction time sticker).
Reply:we had that happen to our cat 920 when i was a kid.    the guy hit a curb of cement while cleaning mangers.    we relocted/offset the pin bushings on the back of the bucket flanges to offset the bent arm.
Reply:Originally Posted by rustyironI agree wintermute's reply above!A lot of "stuff" will get tweeked before a major failure happens. Is this on a new (to you) loader, or one that you've had? (I see the auction time sticker).
Reply:I'd still park it on a flat & level surface and air up all the tires and get the tractor "square & plumb" and start measuring. An 8' level would also help to see what's going on esp. during the "arc" from lowered to raised up. Don't overlook the loader mounting points.
Reply:Fixing cracks in tractor loaders can be done several ways. The tube steel is usually thin so it is hard to get a good weld without burning through. Last one I repaired had cracks about even on both sides so I was able to pull of both ends using a cut off disk to grind a 1/16" groove all the way around. I slipped in some 2" wide by 1/8" backing bars and tacked them in, slid the ends back on, checked for equal lengths. That let me get a good full penetration weld all the way around.If the cracks are only on one arm and you do not want to do as described above, you can just grind out a small groove in the crack and weld from the outside and hope you got good penetration all around.Lastly you can also add fish plates over the top of the weld mentioned above, after grinding the weld down flat, and weld all around. This method is the most common way to repair cracks on tractor loaders.ChrisAuction Addict
Reply:If the loader is twisted differently when down and when up I would check to see if one of the lift cylinders are not bad. It could be one cylinder is doing most if not all of the lifting.Miller 180SDLincoln weld pak 180Hobart 250ciMill Lathe
Reply:Originally Posted by milomiloFixing cracks in tractor loaders can be done several ways. The tube steel is usually thin so it is hard to get a good weld without burning through. Last one I repaired had cracks about even on both sides so I was able to pull of both ends using a cut off disk to grind a 1/16" groove all the way around. I slipped in some 2" wide by 1/8" backing bars and tacked them in, slid the ends back on, checked for equal lengths. That let me get a good full penetration weld all the way around.If the cracks are only on one arm and you do not want to do as described above, you can just grind out a small groove in the crack and weld from the outside and hope you got good penetration all around.Lastly you can also add fish plates over the top of the weld mentioned above, after grinding the weld down flat, and weld all around. This method is the most common way to repair cracks on tractor loaders.
Reply:I've got a 385 with loader. It wasn't straight when I bought it. It was obviously not turn key. My offer reflected that fact. We got it home and investigated the forensics. It seems it fell through the ice. They fished it out, and parked it until they figured out what to do. I believe there was ice in one cylinder. Forcing it caused the cylinder to bend. Cutting that rod freed the frame, it sprang back. I approached the woman I bought it from, said I felt I deserved to know about a thing like falling through pond ice. She denied it. I said it didn't matter. I had stopped payment on the check, I'd return the tractor, or renegotiate the price. She opted for renegotiating price. At present it is a useable tractor with a few bugs. Time will tell if it was a good purchase. If repairs don't exceed 3 or 4 thousand, I've done OK.Unhook the hydraulic cylinders and see if it is symmetrical. It'll be evidentAn optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:By the way, the loader in your picture is NOT heavy duty! It's on a big tractor, this lulls people into believing it's heavy duty. These loaders were built for silage, and manure on a concrete floor. Gently used, they can load gravel. They are not industrial equipment.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:I'd cut the seam top and bottom and diagonal along one side front and rear exposing maybe a foot of the inside. Fish plate it from inside on the intact portion, continuing to the missing area providing backing/reinforcing inside, then replace the missing piece. Heat will compromise the steel, so it needs reinforcement. It always looks crude to do it on the outside. Grind flush, and prime, and paint.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BBy the way, the loader in your picture is NOT heavy duty! It's on a big tractor, this lulls people into believing it's heavy duty. These loaders were built for silage, and manure on a concrete floor. Gently used, they can load gravel. They are not industrial equipment.
Reply:That is a well built loader for the time period. As for reenforcing material I would use what I had I doesnt pay to go over board because the weld to get the most out of the new material would probably cause stress on the loader. If everything is somewhat square I would reuse the old piece if it is to mangled create new.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Without an actual pic of the loader in question the best you will get is guesses. There is too much not known without those pics to tell if it's necessary to replace or patch. In most cases I would straighten as much as possible, cut out what you can't get straight, then plate the outside. If looks are important you can cut a hole in the outside, plate the inside, then fill the hole so there is nothing to see from the outside. As said by others, to get it square put it on some flat concrete with the tires propperly inflated and make sure the bucket sits flat. You can spend a lot of time chasing all the things out of square in an old loader if you want, or just make sure it sits flat and make it stay that way.Yeah, I know, but it'll be ok!Lincoln Square wave 255Miller Vintage mig30a spoolgunThermal Dynamics Pacmaster 100xl plasmaSmith mc torchEllis 1600 band saw
Reply:Originally Posted by OnTheFarmIndustrial duty, no. Heavy farm use, yes. They were the biggest made and built to be used on the bigger tractors. 30 or 40 years just has a way of wearing things out eventually.
Reply:Originally Posted by Willie BI don't intend to demean the machine, it annoys me when some insurance salesman buys one of these and sets out to dig a cellar hole in a boulder pile. They are always surprised when it breaks! The worst offenders are the borrowers. My neighbor wanted to borrow mine to move a few rocks. Minutes later the noise was driving me crazy! I walked down to see what the commotion was about. The rocks were buried 4' pumpkins. He was backing up 10 feet and ramming them! A bulldozer as in a D11 wouldn't survive that abuse! For proper farm use they are a great loader.I love Internationals. When I was a kid the dealer was 1/2 mile away.