track hoe repair

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i have been rebuilding a track hoe boom for my son on a large track hoe, it has been a long drawn out affair. There has been machining, welding, boring and more welding. And a learning experience..... lots of info came from here and other forums. Boring bar was custom built by me and takes a lot a of thoughts from others with far more knowledge than I. I hope to that some here might find it interesting..
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Reply:How will you turn it?An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:I use a Milwaukee 1.25" drive magnetic drill.
Reply:Looks good! I've used the same exact setup on several occasions. People have laughed about it but it's very effective!Nice repair.-DoogieMiller 350PMiller Trailblazer 325 EFI w/ Excel PowerLincoln LN25 suitcase welderXMT 304/22a feederMiller Syncrowave 350LXMiller EconotigHobart Handler 140(2) Uni-Hydro 42-14Hypertherm 65 plasmaWEBB Gap bed lathe
Reply:Looking good from here.  Line boring is always a long drawn out learning experience no matter how many times you do it.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:We have a line boring kit for all our crap. Exact same principle, the carbide hold holes are threaded with a lock setup that allows easy adjustments. Looks great man!Powcon 300st (my favorite)Miller Goldstar 600ssLincoln Idealarc 400/400Miller 12vs2 LN25'sMiller Deltaweld 302Miller Bobcat 250 G EFIMiller Bobcat 225d Plus (Dropped a valve, up soon)Everlast 255ext (ordering soon!)
Reply:Looking good , looking good.
Reply:found a pic of my bore set up in place.  i am hoping to do some upgrade soon
Reply:Very nice job! I have a track loader that needs some line boring.Did you building the bar a la Keith Fenner? He has a YouTube that shows a boring bar build.Did you freehand the welding up of the bore?DB
Reply:I have followed Keith Fenner for quite a while and yes some of what I have is built from his knowledge. But I have learned from many and am always learning! In fact I just watched one of irish fixit's videos and I hope that he reads this again so that I can ask him how he built his bar micrometer; it appears to be far more functional than my system that I currently use.  Yes I hand welded the the bores, well my sons and I did, as everyone has told me, you  really should do a pre bore before welding, not only does it make the weld depth more uniform, but it also removes any galling, and foreign deposits which would cause carbon pockets and hard spots in the weld buildup that really plays heck on your cutting tools! I have a small set of cones that I built for initial lineup, but many of the larger bores that I did on this boom were bigger than the cones. In that case, I ended up building 2 sets of lineup bushings from hard wood on my 6" Atlas lathe. Couple of more learning curves that I should have learned a little sooner also; Use High Speed Steel initially when you cut your weld material out, it is far more forgiving towards making intermediate cuts than carbide, just have to sharpen it often, I have used HSS, 370 carbide and cutter with Kennametal inserts, HSS is the most economical. Another point, when I built my Boring bar, I placed the tooling inserts on the 2" bar at 90 degrees and in the centerline of the toolbar. I have found that since I did that, when I use standard left hand bits it causes my cutters to have a slightly negative rake. I am about to order to some TSA cutters which should fix that, I hope. There is a vast wealth of knowledge here in this forum and in in many more. Just don't be afraid to ask.
Reply:Some great points. Thank you for sharing them. I had thought about offsetting the tool holder for that very reason...Had first seen line boring on Heavy Equipment Forum...amazing skills you guys have.DB
Reply:As I stated earlier it's always a learning curve when line boring.   As for the micrometer. Well I didn't actually make it but I did add the clamp. Lets see.  Ok here's a decent pic of it from this thread. http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...ht=line+boring It's made from a old General (I think that's the right brand) cheap micrometer head. Anyway it was a relatively cheap brand back in the day for micrometer. I know it was made before I was born at my former employers.  Notice that it's clamped in the holder which appears to of been turned from solid square and then bent and brazed to the angle iron piece. Nothing really fancy and it's NOT fool proof. It does help get you in the ball park but it's not bad and makes things easier to get closer. It works fairly well on a standard bar with the clamp I made. It didn't work as well on the clamp on tool holder I used for the Fairbanks Morse engine boring job. I had some problems with it on that job mostly because there wasn't enough room for the whole angle iron piece to set on the holder.   Offsetting the holes in the bar do help get the tool in right geometry. I try to use it when I can but it's not always possible.  Yes you will have better luck boring out the original bore a little if it's no already oversize from finish. Transitioning from weld to original piece will mess up the cut even if you're doing the machining in a lathe or milling machine.  There's a number of old threads on here about line boring. Matt_Maguire is very smart on the subject and we had some good discussions on it years ago. He's not on here very often anymore unfortunately.Last edited by irish fixit; 03-08-2015 at 11:52 PM.Millermatic 252XMT 304'sDynasty 280DXHypertherm PowerMax 1250Miller Trailblazer 302 EFIOptima PulserXR feeder and XR Edge gun and more athttp://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook/index.htm
Reply:I did something similar on a smaller scale w/ a pivot head from a trencher on a horizontal mill in a full blown machine shop.   Now i realize how spoiled i was.    The author gets my A+, I mean doing something like that out in the dirt w/ just the crude basics.    Major effort, pre-thought, and patience needed for that.   Happy digging
Reply:I finally completed my last bore on this track hoe today! last thing to do is cut out some shims for slack between the boom and dipper and start putting her back together, I still am headset on building a facing tool at some point in time! Did get a chance to burn a few rods with my new Texas Pride hood that got for my birthday also! I'll have to be sure and post an assembled pic when done also.....
Reply:The trick to stick welding up bores like that (bore vertical welding horizontally) is to not chip your slag off as you go.  The slag from the previous bead helps provide a better shelf for the bead your welding to sit on as you move up.   I know it sounds kind of wrong but if you do it that way you'll end up with a smoother more even weld with out all that spatter sticking to it.  It will also help you get a some what thicker layer in there.   I've built up quite a few bores like that mostly using 3/32, 7018 and I can get them to turn out pretty slick looking doing it that way.   It's just faster, easier and gives better looking results.   Also, when ever time and circumstance permit a cleaning cut of the bore before welding is a dam good idea.Last edited by HT2-4956; 03-29-2015 at 09:06 AM.
Reply:Had to go back a page to find this again.  I sure enjoyed it, and wanted to say so.  Don't have anything this big, and hopefully never will."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Looks awesome for what you had to work with!!  You will find the TSA tools will work great.  I use HSS almost ALL the time, only using carbide for a final cut, and then only if it needs to be polished and perfect.  One more thing to consider...............when you hand weld a bore you will usually find it easier to across the hole in straight lines rather than around the inside...........much more consistent welding that way and you're not changing positions as much.I'm training 2 new line boring techs right now.  Today I have them setting up a scenario that has 2 horizontal 8 inch holes that are 36 inches apart and 2 vertical ones.   I'll have them cut and weld them a few dozen times to get comfortable with the basics before I turn them loose on a real job.Once again, good job and great creativity.---Matt6 Miller Big Blue 600 Air Paks2 Miller 400D6 Lincoln LN-25's4 Miller Xtreme 12VS2 Miller Dimension 812 4 Climax BW-3000Z bore welders Hypertherm 65 and 85Bug-O Track BugPair of Welpers
Reply:Crap.............just seen the date of original post..........6 Miller Big Blue 600 Air Paks2 Miller 400D6 Lincoln LN-25's4 Miller Xtreme 12VS2 Miller Dimension 812 4 Climax BW-3000Z bore welders Hypertherm 65 and 85Bug-O Track BugPair of Welpers
Reply:Nice to see expat still kicking and that the ebola or what ever disease o the month over there hasn't got him.Millermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer