Drill press speeds ...

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speaking with a CL seller for older craftsman drill press. He doesn't know much about it: I asked for the range of speeds. He says there are 3 pulley positions at motor and spindle.Any way I might tell? I suppose I'm looking for at least a low end of 400rpm or so?http://jerseyshore.craigslist.org/tls/3615755639.htmlLincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:Looks like one of the old Walker-Turner presses that were badged Craftsman.  I have a similar one with 4 pulley positions, and I have no idea of the speeds.  I got it from a friend and haven't used it.Some had an idler pulley in the middle (two belts) for lower speed."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:The lowest speed on that will be pretty high...however, depending on how handy you are, you can replace the spindle pully with a larger one (you'll have to remove the spindle pully guard).  You'll also need to make sure the motor is a 1750rpm and not a 3450.  If it's still running too fast from there, your best bet is to put a variable speed motor and controller on it (I've done that with a few DPs using 90v DC permanent magnet 1hp motors and Cycletrol 150 controllers).--Wintermute"No man's knowledge here can go beyond his experience." - John Lockewww.improvised-engineering.comManufacturer Agnostic:Blood----------Sweat---------Tears----|------------------|----------------|----Lincoln Red, Miller Blue, Esab Yellow
Reply:OK, first things first here.If you can get the model number of the drill press (DP) you can go to the Vintage machinery site and probably find the Owners Manual for the DP.  http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex...x?id=222&tab=3The first three digits of the model number will be the Sears/Craftsman vendor's code (i.e.103-xxxxxx  The 103 designates the Original Manufacturer that sold the DP to Sears).  http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex...x?id=222&tab=0Yes, that DP was designed for wood working, consequently the speeds will probably be too fast for hard core metal drilling.  Not really a problem though as there have been several alternative systems developed over the years to deal with the speed problem.  http://www.vintageprojects.com/machi...SpeedPress.pdf$75 is a good price for that press provided it is in decent condition.  The older DPs are simple machines and can be rebuilt and/or refurbished for short money.  The castings will be of higher quality than about anything on the consumer quality machine market today.  The bearings are readily available through many different sources.Hope this helps RogerRogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Thanks for the replies guys. I have contacted the seller to have a look. We'll see...Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:Got it home and cleaned up. Took a little time and patience to drive out the bushings that put tension on the column for the head and the table. The quill recoil spring also got away from at first, but it all went well. No slop or wiggle and the motor is smooth.It needs a belt and a cord and plug for the lamp. The depth guage ring is broken but complete. It is cast, I may take a crack at welding it. It does not appear to be aluminum.The only model number I found is on the motor: s4263. The tag on the body says craftsman, but the motor says companion. There is a sticker on the back of the motor that says Golden Jubilee 1936.Cannot find a model number with the 101.xxxxxx , etc. format. or spot on base or anywhere else that looks like it might have been there. The closest thing I have found on the vintagemachinery site is a couple of Atlas model manuals that look similar. One of them lists the lowest speed at 700rpm, I am going to look into the idler pulley set up.Thanks for the help, any other info would be helpful. Can I just match up a similar belt for say a lawn tractor or something for now? Does the motor get oiled anywhere? Attached ImagesLincoln AC/DC 225/125 and WP17. 75A AC is for pipe thawing!HH 140 - new addtion 9/2012.I didn't agree, but hoped for Hope and Change.I got change for myself and my family: for the worse.This is the reality of: Barackalypse Now. Again.
Reply:That thing looks to be in nice shape.  Is that an SKF Bearing decal on the front?"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Originally Posted by OldendumThat thing looks to be in nice shape.  Is that an SKF Bearing decal on the front?
Reply:SKF is very good."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:SIXTY BUCKS?!!!!!!!   "YOU SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!"Yep, it would appear to me that you are now in possession of a Model number 101-03580 Craftsman/Atlas Drill Press in near mint condition.  If the tag is still present it will be found on the base casting (top, probably in front of the column), if the tag is missing you should still find two small holes where the tag was attached with drive rivets.Owners Manual can be downloaded here.  http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/1193.pdf  Would recommend reading the lubrication requirements for the DP as the bearings on that old of machine are rarely "sealed" but rather "shielded" which require some maintenance like periodic lubrication.  You will also find that it is a nine speed unit, by adjusting the motor up and down for further pulley ratios.Parts List is here.  http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/928.pdfI would also recommend downloading the 101-3662 parts file.  The model is incorrect (later model) but the detail drawing is correct and shows the inner workings of your DP quite nicely.  http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/222/572.pdfThe quiil stop collar should be repairable.  Stick a magnet on it first to determine if it is iron or aluminum alloy, if it is iron then drill a small hole in a piece next to the brake.  If it is cast iron the swarf will come out as a powder and if it is cast steel the swarf will come out as chips.  Either way I would probably just silver solder or bronze braze it.  Even the quill protector cap is there which is rare for these OLD DPs.  (Circa 1930s early 1940s).  From out here in the cheap seats even the table shows no signs of the infamous "Arc of Shame" (drill divets).  The Companion motor was original Sears vendor AA/Dunlap/Companion.  Vendor designation would be 109 for them.  I am not sure on the lubrication but one of the motor gurus over at Vintage Machines could tell you.  When you rewire the motor be sure to include a ground, to prevent any shocking experiences from the BAD karma you have coming for stealing this thing.  You might also consider finding a bit more convenient location and adding a switch box to move the power switch out towards the front.  I refuse to drill new holes in vintage equipment but can usually mount a switch box by utilizing an existing bolt  (I am thinking that the bolt for the belt shield would be an ideal location to add a small bracket).Belts can be had at about any good hardware store.  Take the old one along and have them size it for you.  You are looking for a "fractional Horsepower belt" like the blower on a furnace.  AND yes SKF is a good thing!Enjoy your new/old drill press.  Last edited by Rog02; 02-17-2013 at 12:29 PM.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Originally Posted by Rog02SIXTY BUCKS?!!!!!!!   "YOU SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!"Yep, it would appear to me that you are now in possession of a Model number 101-03580 Craftsman/Atlas Drill Press in near mint condition.  If the tag is still present it will be found on the base casting (top, probably in front of the column), if the tag is missing you should still find two small holes where the tag was attached with drive rivets.Thats what I thought from researching the  vintagemachinery site as well, but I see no evidence of it, which I specifically looked for.Owners Manual can be downloaded here.  Parts List is here.  Yep, got all those from your earlier post, thanks Roger. I saw the lubrication section as well.The only thing I see missing from the drill press is the depth stop gauge, which may have been optional. I have it complete, but the circular bracket is snapped from being overtightened. I may try welding it or looking for one just to have the original equipment. The Companion motor was original Sears vendor AA/Dunlap/Companion.  Vendor designation would be 109 for them.  AND yes SKF is a good thing!Enjoy your new/old drill press.
Reply:It appears I was editing my post after rereading your picture post.  Yeap, I think I would silver solder or bronze braze the depth stop bracket.RogerOld, Tired, and GRUMPYSalesman will call, Batteries not included, Assembly is required, and FREE ADVICE IS WORTH EXACTLY WHAT YOU PAY FOR IT!Dial Arc 250HFThunderbolt 225 AC/DCAssorted A/O torches
Reply:Looks like your motor is a 1750 RPM model.  You can calculate the spindle RPM's by using the pulley diameters.  There are many websites that have online calculators for determining final RPM using pulley diameters...just don't have any handy now.