Jigs for welding table help

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I used a mag drill to drill the top of my welding table in a grid pattern so I could use strong hand tool/fixture jigs on it.  I would like to build a couple of my own fixtures etc for this table.  The holes were drilled with 5/8" annular cutters.  If I buy some 5/8" solid rod will it fit into the holes in the table perfectly or will the fit be to tight?  Is there a specific type of rod etc I should ask for when purchasing the rod for this?
Reply:I would think it would be a pretty tight fit which is good but I don't really have experience in your situation
Reply:Not exactly sure what your use is...but I would get some dowel pins from Enco or MSC. They will be hardened and have both radius ends, ready to go.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkESAB Migmaster 250Ltec ST23 spoolgunMiller Passport
Reply:I'd randomly check a few holes to see (a) what size they are, (b) how round they actually are, you will most likely end up with a range (the more holes you check the more likely it is that you will get the entire range of sizes).Most of the time, that 5/8" round the way you buy it will be slightly over-size, the 5/8" is nominal.  How much or rather how far away from actual specified size depends to some degree on material and if that material has had any processing done to it.  E.G. 1045 can be purchased as TGP, Turned Ground Polished will be much closer than just off the rack 1018.  If you want to weld bases and things like that on, get material that can be welded, not all can, or, rather, there are degrees of difficulty welding some steels.Based on my understanding of how those fixtures fit, it is when put under load, the clamping a part down, that load forces the upright against the sides of the hole, that force plus whatever friction.  Just a guess, but it maybe possible that 9/16" round would provide enough bearing against the sides of the hole (the thickness of the table top plays a part here) and would not need any additional machining like the 5/8" LIKELY would.
Reply:Chances are the holes are a little oversize.  I would guess you could use regular 0.625 rod, but you can always get a cheap set of electronic calipers and check where you are at.  I did the same thing, using 0.625 holes, but mine were cut on a water jet undersized and reamed to .625.  I have a lathe to make tooling to fit.  I've had good luck using cheap Bessey clamps, cutting the fixed jaw off and welding on a shouldered plug that fits into my table.  I just cut them right at the base of the curve:http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-LMU2-00...s=bessey+clamp
Reply:Originally Posted by kazlxChances are the holes are a little oversize.  I would guess you could use regular 0.625 rod, but you can always get a cheap set of electronic calipers and check where you are at.  I did the same thing, using 0.625 holes, but mine were cut on a water jet undersized and reamed to .625.  I have a lathe to make tooling to fit.  I've had good luck using cheap Bessey clamps, cutting the fixed jaw off and welding on a shouldered plug that fits into my table.  I just cut them right at the base of the curve:http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-LMU2-00...s=bessey+clamp
Reply:I made a bunch of these. Easy to move about and strong enough.
Reply:when I drilled my welding table i used 16mm annular cutter which is .0.6299215/8 posts are 0.625 which are slightly smaller and they fit fine.not sure why people think an annual cutter hole is bigger than nominal I've found they are pretty dead on.
Reply:My table has all laser cut 5/8ths holes and my tooling is made from HF clamps and some used axles parts for my cardboard baler jacks. before i bolted the top down it was very warped but i fixed that with 16 counter sunk 3/8ths bolts. Now it sits very close to flat, good enough for me and what i can build.