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Reed Assembly

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:05:56 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I am upgrading my r57 idler to electronic idler and need to know where to place the reed assembly and the best place to attach the circut board. I bought it from hybriweld and all that came with it is a wiring diagram. Thanks for the help.
Reply:i just bought a hybriweld kit too.  I was just researching your same question yesterday.  I believe the reed switch attaches directly to the negative welding terminal and the other end attaches to the copper strip.  Honestly, I am a little put off by this kit so far.  It didn't include detailed instructions, pressure switch, and dust cover.  Guess that's what I get for trying to save a few bucks.
Reply:Yea me too, thought it would at least come with instructions and a dust cover. I know that I saw a dust cover for $13, but for $325 for the kit I thought it would have a dust cover.
Reply:http://www.aws.org/cgi-bin/mwf/topic_show.pl?tid=26993Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Thanks that helps some, but the copper strap that is atteched to the top of the range selector and and the negative post does not have a hole to attach the other end of the reed assembly to after it is attached to the negative output post. I don't want to put a hole in this strap and not need to heavens knows where a guy could find a replacment.
Reply:Not familiar with the Hybriweld reed switch but on the factory Lincoln set up the copper strap is wound to form a two loop coil and the reed switch secures inside the coil loops.  One switch leed goes to a good chassis ground and the other connects to the RED terminal (or solder connection) on the idler board.http://www.billswelderrepair.com/SA200schematics.htmlThe Hybriweld version sounds like it may have its own loop coil and just parallels the weld output strap to generate the magnetic field that operates the switch.  The switch leads would connect the same as the factory system.edit: Figured I'd just post to your thread rather than respond to your PM.Last edited by duaneb55; 08-20-2011 at 03:29 PM.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:Ok, must have been thinking about it too hard. Unbolt the original strap from the negative output lug, bolt the new reed assemby to the negative output lug and the other end of the new reed assembly with the supplied bolt, washer,  and nut to the end of the old (original) strap that you removed from the negative output lug. What did you do with the yellow that came in the wiring harness attached to the blue and the white wires that go to the solenoid. My machine does not have a oil pressure switch, the diagram says to go to the oil pressure to battery positive. Not sure what to do.
Reply:I am guessing they want 12DC to power the pcb. And they think the oil pressure switch is a good place to get it. it also may keep the 12VDC away from the pcb until the engine is running. Some Idle controls force the engine to run at high idle when started and only go to low idle after it times out. You can always raid the kitchen for a plastic box when the wife is not looking.If you don't have a oil pressure switch you may have to install a idle timer power switch so the engine will start is high idle. Good luck.Call the people you bought the control from and ask them how to install on a welder with out a pressure switch.
Reply:That will be my next move tomorrow. This is what came with the kit. As you can see the yellow from the idler switch goes to the oil pressure switch (which I do not have on my machine) does it go to ground now or what. Attached ImagesLast edited by moneynotfunny; 08-21-2011 at 07:20 PM.Reason: forgot something
Reply:Ok, got it al figured out the machine idles up and down like it should, thanks for all the help guys. I found the section on engine idler troubleshooting at http://www.weldmart.com/technical/manuals.htm very helpful. I now have a working R-57 vacum idler for sale. if  anyone needs one.
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