Back to the basics!

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I want to start black smithing!Ok guys, those of you who fallow any of my posts probably know I've had my hands in just about every kind of welding and fab I could ever dream up... But ever since I was a kid I've always wanted to learn to work an anvil! We'll.. I now have the opportunity to get started ( I even have full blown approval from the wife!!)I'm going to build a forge within the next couple weeks, also have an anvil, and some of the hammers I need. What I do not have is INFO about basic set up and procedures.If anyone has input on the subject I'm all ears.I will be posting some pics in a few weeks when I start but would like to hear some ideas and pointers to keep in mind when I build everything and get started!!Anyway I'm pretty excited about it! Let me know what you guys thinkReal welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Try these guys. http://www.habairon.org/
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Here's a few things I've put together over the years for the kind of work I do.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...nts&highlight=
Reply:Download free educational books about blacksmithing and blacksmithing shop practice. - Collection of public domain books:http://www.craftsmanspace.com/free-b...ing-books.htmlOnly when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.                                         -Cree Indian ProverbSA 200 LincolnVictor Torches
Reply:Thanks for the info guys! I hope to be setup and practicing within a couple weeks, but everyone knows how schedules work around the fab world! ( usually not so much )Until then I'll be reading up!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:I'll help you out any way I can. "Getting started" is a pretty big area, so knowing what you need help with 1st would help narrow down the field a bit. Getting the fire going ( what fuel you are going to use..) Basic techniques on moving metal... ( best covered in some of the books listed below unless you have specific questions)A few decent books to look for. The New Edge of the Anvil is the book the college uses for it's basic "text".The Backyard Blacksmith by Laurali Sims is a decent very basic primer.A Blacksmithing Primer by Randy McDaniel is another good one. I have the book, but I think there are some DVDs that you can get covering the material also. I believe you can rent the DVD's from smartflix ( they also have a number of other blacksmithing DVD's you can rent.https://smartflix.com/store/category/34/BlacksmithingMark Aspery has 3 books. I'd call them intermediate to advanced, but they have a lot of great information. They are quite pricy at about $60 each, but quite good. He's also got a number of good youtube videos that show some of the stuff that is covered in the books.I have all of those books, so can comment on them directly. I have a bunch of others that are on my list to pick up at some point, but those will cover most of the basics. Any of the 1st 3 will get you started.I shot this PM to another member recently who asked about some good youtube stuff on blacksmithing....Hi, Here are a few you might want to look at.1st one isn't blacksmithing related, but he does some awesome machining and casting videos.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKL...jAnn8E76KP7sQgMark Aspery has some really great videos. His 3 books are very expensive, but very complete. They are geared more towards the intermediate smith however.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXa...KpkFF2aUzCsR8QA lot of the ABANA stuff is from Mark, but some is from others.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsO...ri5rgG-pv-4TkwAlex has some good stuff.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWi...mr43zfxlCktmNwBrian is another good one to watch.https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC5N...BlzKYBOivIS5VAhttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQX...M5A-skemMLMrughttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAE...-lw_cGlvYgWkNAhttps://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWE...r39MrPY1FwLEbghttps://www.youtube.com/user/workingwithiron/videosI've probably got a dozen or so more saved. I usually look at the suggestions on the right side and see if I see any that interest me. If they are decent, I try and save them for later reference.
Reply:Originally Posted by Dantheharleyman99I want to start black smithing!Ok guys, those of you who fallow any of my posts probably know I've had my hands in just about every kind of welding and fab I could ever dream up... But ever since I was a kid I've always wanted to learn to work an anvil! We'll.. I now have the opportunity to get started ( I even have full blown approval from the wife!!)I'm going to build a forge within the next couple weeks, also have an anvil, and some of the hammers I need. What I do not have is INFO about basic set up and procedures.If anyone has input on the subject I'm all ears.I will be posting some pics in a few weeks when I start but would like to hear some ideas and pointers to keep in mind when I build everything and get started!!Anyway I'm pretty excited about it! Let me know what you guys think
Reply:Dan, You've been given some excellent sources to research.  One of my favorite forums is www.iforgeiron.com.  It is a blacksmithing forum LOADED with information, great group of blacksmiths to answer your questions, no matter how simple or complex.  Join up and soak up all you can.Blacksmithing, along with welding, are two of the things I have had most fun doing.  Dive in and enjoy it.  Not like many of the pros here, my stuff is more along the hobby lines.  I'd starve to death in a week if I tried to make a living blacksmithing or welding!!!
Reply:Iforgeiron is a good site, but be aware that many there don't suffer "fools" lightly. Expect to have a few give you the "search 1st" answer to questions that get asked frequently. Show you at least put in some minimal effort going thru old posts to try and answer your questions and you will get better replies. Also it's a "G" rated site, and much of the comments and innuendos that you can get away with here in jest will get you in trouble there..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I agree.  Newbies on this forum and iforgeiron have to have pretty thick skin
Reply:I will definitely look into the links and the books you guys suggested!Like I mentioned, I am an experienced metal worker.... That being said I have not had the opportunity to forge anything.I don't know much about the practice, I've seen it done a few times and it looks right up my alley! I specifically remember the day I first saw it done.. I was a kid and went to the greenfield village in michigan, I spent most of the day in the train station and next to the blacksmith watching them build things from scrap... I fell in love right there!!I will be building a coal forge with approximately a 12-16" fire box and probably a 3x4 ft hearth tray around it (I was told to keep the top of the fire box level with the sides of the hearth box). The fire box will be 4" deep and the hearth tray approx 2". A squirrel fan with a dimmer switch will provide my air flow to the fire box and the whole thing will be on a rolling stand of some sort.   If I've messed up on measurements please correct me!I have a few smithing style hammers, cold chisels , anvil (on the lookout for another), I can build jigs and dies, also looking for a set of tongs and other various tools for the trade. I live near a coal processing plant so that won't be an issue.My main focus will be ornamental things, possibly some furniture , plant holders, shelving etc..I build things like this now but they are  just cold bend round bar (or heated with a torch) that I weld up  for fun.Anyway thanks for the help guys, I hope to get started soon!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:When you get real good you can get one of these shirts....
Reply:Lol nice!My heros have always been moe,Larry,and curly (can't forget chep) Sheer brute force and ignorance may not always work... But man it's fun to watch. lol!!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Greenfield village is awesome! It's one of the places I remember best when we drove across the country when I was 14. I made a point of going back 3 years ago when I was out that direction on a trip and would go regularly if I was closer. Besides the blacksmith shop, I love the machine shop and the round house, just to name a few. Colonial Williamsburg also has a great blacksmith shop. That's on my list of places to get back to one day. I could care less about most of Williamsburg other than a few of the other craft shops.16" on the fire box might be a bit on the large size. Mine is about 12x14 and is on the moderate side of large. I've seen them down to 8 to 12" as "medium". Issue with a big fire pot is that you are going to be burning a lot of fuel all the time. You probably won't get that much of an increase in the size of the material you can heat and work, but the volume of the pot size will increase, and that's what you need to keep full of fuel. My forge thread shows the measurements of how I made mine. It is based off a commercial forge design that seems to work reasonably well. If I was doing it again, about the only thing I'd change is the clinker breaker at the bottom of the fire box. I think I'd just buy a commercial one either from Pieh or Centaur Forge, and build the bottom of the pot to match it. Most likely I'll still do that to mine eventually.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?146321-Coal-forge4" deep is about right for coal. If you go with charcoal, the pot needs to be deeper. I've seen the pot set both slightly above the deck, as well as flush with it. If it's flush, it's easy to push more fuel into the fire. Mine is raised up about an inch, and I find it tends to help keep ash and such out of the pot to some degree.As far as coal. be aware, not all coal is created equal. Given a choice, you want soft bituminous coal. I started out with a  bunch of anthracite coal I was given by a friend. Once it's gone I'll never get any more. I'll drive the 2 hours to go get bituminous vs getting anthracite local. Anthracite is a b1tch to get lit and you have to run the blower full time to keep it going. That makes it tough to regulate the heat well, and you go thru a lot more fuel. It also really doesn't coke up well, and the stuff I have is very dirty with a lot of clinker that you have to keep constantly removing. It's a huge difference from the bituminous that I used at the college last week. Most heating coal is anthracite BTW.Tongs can be bought new and used, and can be made several ways. There is a company out there that sells CNC cut tong blanks that you can heat up and twist and form to shape. I've seen a few people copy that design. The Youtube links I posted will have a few on making tongs on the anvil. In the beginning you can get away without any tongs if you just work with stock of a reasonable length, or weld on a "handle". When I was doing the top tool last week, I simply welded a 30" length of 1/2" to the end of the 4" length of 1 1/2" square bar so I didn't have to bother with tongs under the power hammer. Some of the other things like the hot cut, I worked using tongs..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks DSW: the forge you built is awesome, that type of design  is what I had in mind.I appreciate all the info and am dying to get started, just gotta finish a few other projects before I can start this one!!I'm a firm believer more than 20 projects at a time is just too much (hey that looks sweet, I bet I could make that outa some....) .. We'll make that 21 projects!! LolReal welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:OK, OK, OK....I just couldn't resist posting this.  Dan, you were asking about tongs.  Well, after I built my forge, I realized I had no tongs.  Had an anvil; OK there.  Had a couple of ball peins, but that was about it.  Vise grips were TOO short to forge with, so I looked around the shop and found an old scrap set pliers of little value.  I felt like I couldn't afford to spend $ on a set of ready-made tongs without knowing just what style I wanted/needed.So,,,,,,I grabbed the pliers, some 1/2" rod, fired up the welder and made a set of tongs.  I should have posted these in the "ugly tool" thread that is floating around here somewhere.  Those things are/were horrible, but they were actually adjustable with the slip notches on the pliers!  Since then, I have managed to collect a good set of usable tongs, but I still have the "pliers-tongs".  Therefore, you CAN make tongs out of just about anything
Reply:Ditto The Backyard Blacksmith. Lots of info to get you started.
Reply:dan,  youtube has professional blacksmiths/farriers giving some great instruction on everything from making your own horseshoes to forging iron rings and scrolls. your local library might have some books on the subject and i've found books on welding/blacksmithing at the used book store.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Here's a few things I've put together over the years for the kind of work I do.http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php...nts&highlight=
Reply:Well... I got a couple minutes freed up last night so I went to the scrap pile and found some old 1/2" diamond plate laying behind the shop! (Some people call it hoarding..I call it being prepared!) so I decided to start making the fire pot for my forge, it's a dished square design  almost like DWS made his, only mine will have a slightly steeper slope on the sides, it's 12"x12" and 5.5" deep.. I will just be using a grate instead of a clinker breaker, this will alow me to adjust depth so I have the option to work with charcoal if I can't get real coal. Didn't get to do any prep, just cut the wedges for the fire pot. Used my old Harris oxy propane scraping torch for this one (2 empty acetlyne bottles and no time to swap them out)Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Looks like you are on your way. Keep us posted on this as you go. I'm looking forward to seeing your unit when completed.Grates work fine, but make sure you make it out of heavy enough material. I forget who it was here who made their grate out of light weight stock, and first thing I mentioned was it needed to be heavier.... well sure enough, next post and he posted up the melted remains of his grate after he made his 1st fire... Bar grates are easy to burn in the heat in the bottom of a forge, especially if the bars are thin. Plate with holes drilled in it holds up a bit better, and cast iron drain grates are one good option to think about. Iron melts at a hotter temp than steel does.Just to give you an idea hot hot things can get, last week I repainted the bottom of my forge before the Grange fair with high temp paint. Well when I was unloading the forge from the truck yesterday afternoon, I noticed I'd burned all the high temp paint off the bottom of the fire pot. Paint is rated at 1800 or 2000 deg if I remember right. I wasn't even really cranking up the forge when I was working..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ya I was going to go to the scrap yard and see if I could get a nice thick cast iron grate to cut down.. If I can't then I will make one out of some thick stuff I've got laying around. I'm going to pick up a half sheet of 1/4" steel to build the table and use some 1/2" flat stock laying around to sort of brace around the opening for the fire pot. sort of like a heat sink I hope, I know how easily heat destroys steel so I'm taking that into account and will make most of the parts replaceable. I have 4 iron castors for the bottom so it's portable and am hoping to get to steel yard to get my plate steel and some 2x4 tubing for the legs.  Just seems like I never get a free minute to work only own stuff!!If all goes well I hope to get some more accomplished this weekReal welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Update: I've got the steel cut for my firebox and have been working the ole grinder to death cleaning and be beveling, but after a while I decided to give my hands a break... So I dug out an old piece of rr track I had and decided to put a horn on it. The track was only about 12" so I decided to try making a horn out of 1/2 plate I have left over..... Before anyone says "that will never work", it's only going to be for small decorative stuff!!Anyway I welded 1 piece on to see how it looks, next is to cut 2 more pieces for each side of the plate that's welded on right now, then I will round them into a horn and hard face the top This May or may not work for what I intended it for but either way I'm still going to try it!!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:I was able to get the sides of the fire pot glued together tonight! I had a whole can of old 7018  and a 10 lb box of 7014 that's been laying around pretty much open for quite a while so I figured now would be a good time to burn through them.... So yes I did have a few little spits and sputters but it went ok and I got rid of quite a few old rods. Inside was a 7018 root with 7014 cap, outside was single pass on 7018.Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Looking good so far. Next is the tuyre and the air inlet and ash dump. Square to round is always a challenge. At some point, either here, or where you make the hook up to the air supply you'll have to make that transition. Mine was made of large round pipe I had on hand, but I've seen guys build the tuyre out of square tube as well. It's a bit easier to make the square to round transition on square if you have limited tools and equipment. The simple way is to just drill out the side wall of the square with a hole saw the right size to match your pipe. 2" pipe is what a lot of guys use. I've also seen muffler pipe used as once you are below the fire pot, you don't really have to worry about burning up the pipe as much.I'd give a bit of thought to what you plan to use as a blower before you make the tuyre. Mine was originally made to work with an old fire place blower I adapted. I later changed over to a commercial blower and wished I'd left myself a bit more space as the tuyre sits just a bit higher than the output of the blower. also the blower I got has an "odd" OD, and getting it to hook up to the air gate I bought and pipe for the tuyre took a bit of playing until I found something that made the transition. If I was to do it again, having the final fan 1st would have simplified things. Of course since buying the commercial fan, I managed to acquire 2 really nice all metal bath fans that would have done the same thing and been a whole lot cheaper.... They'll probably stay in my box of "parts" awaiting some kid or someone who needs a nice blower cheap.Oh BTW Shortfuse here has a good design for an air gate using a pipe coupling with 2 slots cut in it for a sheet metal plate with a round hole drilled in it. ( I think he may have posted the picts in my forge thread...) If I was doing mine over on a budget, I'd go that route as it would exactly match the 2" pipe nipple I attached to the tuyre. The OD of the coupling is also a really close match to the OD on my blower, or I could have used a threaded floor flange and bolted the unit to the fan housing....No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald ReaganOriginally Posted by DSWLooking good so far. Next is the tuyre and the air inlet and ash dump. Square to round is always a challenge. At some point, either here, or where you make the hook up to the air supply you'll have to make that transition. Mine was made of large round pipe I had on hand, but I've seen guys build the tuyre out of square tube as well. It's a bit easier to make the square to round transition on square if you have limited tools and equipment. The simple way is to just drill out the side wall of the square with a hole saw the right size to match your pipe. 2" pipe is what a lot of guys use. I've also seen muffler pipe used as once you are below the fire pot, you don't really have to worry about burning up the pipe as much.I'd give a bit of thought to what you plan to use as a blower before you make the tuyre. Mine was originally made to work with an old fire place blower I adapted. I later changed over to a commercial blower and wished I'd left myself a bit more space as the tuyre sits just a bit higher than the output of the blower. also the blower I got has an "odd" OD, and getting it to hook up to the air gate I bought and pipe for the tuyre took a bit of playing until I found something that made the transition. If I was to do it again, having the final fan 1st would have simplified things. Of course since buying the commercial fan, I managed to acquire 2 really nice all metal bath fans that would have done the same thing and been a whole lot cheaper.... They'll probably stay in my box of "parts" awaiting some kid or someone who needs a nice blower cheap.Oh BTW Shortfuse here has a good design for an air gate using a pipe coupling with 2 slots cut in it for a sheet metal plate with a round hole drilled in it. ( I think he may have posted the picts in my forge thread...) If I was doing mine over on a budget, I'd go that route as it would exactly match the 2" pipe nipple I attached to the tuyre. The OD of the coupling is also a really close match to the OD on my blower, or I could have used a threaded floor flange and bolted the unit to the fan housing...
Reply:I haven't much to contribute to the conversation except that my beverage of choice tonight fit your thread. It's a super tasty option!
Reply:Very cool seeing this progress, I've been dabbling in blacksmithing on and off for a few months now. It's great fun. Wish I could have a coal forge at home, but being an urban area- the neighbors would not approve. I've got all three books from Mark Aspery and they are excellent, it's one of the very few modern books on blacksmithing. Youtube holds tons of good footage. My personal favorites on there are - Brian Brazeal, Alec Steel, Daniel Lea, Chase Saxton, Dave Custer- most of the latter were trained by or received training from Brian Brazeal. Uri Hofi is another good person to look up. Brent Bailey also forges amazing hammers, I have several from him, and Dave Custer.Yesteryear forge also makes some very nice tooling for jigs. You can check them out, and probably make your own as well.Last edited by Mudman; 08-22-2014 at 02:56 AM.
Reply:I'd be careful with that horn welded on the railroad track.RR track typically hardens when welded, and it might fail by breaking off.so I'd not be wearing slippers when working on that anvil other than that, nice project you've got going on! I wish I had more time, 'smithing is on my to-do list as well...
Reply:Originally Posted by MudmanWish I could have a coal forge at home, but being an urban area- the neighbors would not approve. Yesteryear forge also makes some very nice tooling for jigs. You can check them out, and probably make your own as well.
Reply:Originally Posted by kingneroI'd be careful with that horn welded on the railroad track.RR track typically hardens when welded, and it might fail by breaking off.so I'd not be wearing slippers when working on that anvil other than that, nice project you've got going on! I wish I had more time, 'smithing is on my to-do list as well...
Reply:Originally Posted by MudmanVery cool seeing this progress, I've been dabbling in blacksmithing on and off for a few months now. It's great fun. Wish I could have a coal forge at home, but being an urban area- the neighbors would not approve. I've got all three books from Mark Aspery and they are excellent, it's one of the very few modern books on blacksmithing. Youtube holds tons of good footage. My personal favorites on there are - Brian Brazeal, Alec Steel, Daniel Lea, Chase Saxton, Dave Custer- most of the latter were trained by or received training from Brian Brazeal. Uri Hofi is another good person to look up. Brent Bailey also forges amazing hammers, I have several from him, and Dave Custer.Yesteryear forge also makes some very nice tooling for jigs. You can check them out, and probably make your own as well.
Reply:DSW...I just wanted to thank you for the info you have given me. It has helped substantially, and it's really nice having some one who can tell me what things I should pay attention to and what to look for!Anyway thanks again!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Dan, I just had an epiphany (is that like a C-section???)...anyway...Has anyone ever used a broken or unusable manhole cover that may have come from the local water dept. that might be cut down to size and holes or slots put in to use for a grating??  Wow, THAT was a long sentence....Those are pretty thick.  Don't know if they are cast or forged, but seem to be pretty tough.
Reply:Good question! I'll look into that, I know a few guys that work for the county and a couple splicers who might be able to get me one. I think they might be made from cast, I know they weigh about a gazillion pounds so they gotta be good!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Originally Posted by PrettyGlamWeldI haven't much to contribute to the conversation except that my beverage of choice tonight fit your thread. It's a super tasty option!
Reply:First had it in Napa, but then found it at Whole Foods. You never know, you might need a sponsor!
Reply:Had Sonoma Cider in Prescott AZ...good stuff.  Can't find it here.  How was this cut...using a plasma cutter?  Looks really cool. http://www.thefirepitstore.com/fire-...k-our-home-tr/
Reply:It was cut with a Harris oxy/propane torch. Thanks for the compliment though!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:I was able to get the coal table laid out and stitched together most of the way tonight! 2 of my buddies came over after work and helped me cut all the plate and tag team the welds, so far the fire pot took 24 rods and the coal table has taken about 60 rods  and I've got about 10-20 to go on it. Had the ole thunderbolt singing... She never complains!  I did take a few pics but they are still on my phone and I'm beat..... So I'll post some pics in the morning!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:The final dimensions ended up at 22.5" x 33" and it's all 1/2" plate instead of my original 1/4" plate idea because I had the 1/2" on hand.Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Had just enough plate to piece the tray together, ended up with a few good sized gaps though so I had to contend with that.. Filled them with 7014 the rest we used 7018Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:Hey mudman I misread the link and thought it said ocala in the title!!! Woops.. I tried to pm you after my first message but it was giving me a fit. Anyway thanks for the link!Real welders know how to penetrate!(Equipment)Whatever can be used to beat my opponent into submission!
Reply:That whole thing is 1/2" plate! Man my table is 14 ga at most with 1/8" sides and it still weighs a ton with the 1/2" fire pot in it plus the fan. Mine is barely moveable by myself. I don't even want to think what doubling the thickness of mine would do weight wise, let along going as thick as yours is. Wheels or a crane is going to be required to move that beast. You certainly won't have any issues wearing it out.Looking good though. I'd like to see a bit more prep where the welds were done, but it shouldn't make a big difference. More a matter of practicing good habits all the time no matter what you are building..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWCoal isn't all that bad to burn. I only really make a cloud of smoke when I 1st start off and light the green coal. My neighbor probably makes more smoke with his little patio fire pit. Even then it doesn't last all that long. Some newspaper lit on top of the pile will help light the smoke up and limit the smoke you make before the fire gets going well. After that I just make a point of keeping the coal banked against the fire well all the time. The coal cokes and the fire burns off the smoke that is created so there isn't anything to see. if I accidentally rake a bit of green coal in with the coke, the amount of smoke is usually small. Playing with the air flow will help some. Many times dropping down the air will cause the fire to slow down and burn off the smoke vs causing a cloud. Other times a bit more air will help.You can also buy industrial coke from blacksmith suppliers. It's more expensive and harder to locate, but burns clean most of the time except possible on start up.I'll highly recommend Yesteryear Forge. I've used their stuff at the college, even though I didn't know who had made it. I spent almost an hour last Thursday talking to one of the guys form there at the ABANA conference in Delaware at their booth. ( I wish I could remember who I was talking to right now). He was more than willing to explain how to use a number of the items and let me take picts of how to make several things he had on display. I was going to get several of their items, but they had closed up shop for a discussion group in the hall where their booth was set up when I got back from the demo I wanted to see. Plans are in the works to order the G2 guillotine fuller and Versajig with the bias rig as soon as the credit card cycle changes in a few days, since I couldn't get them at the show. I can't build one for what it would cost to buy one and have it as nice if you figure time as well as materials. Even on just materials I wouldn't be saving all that much.
Reply:Build is coming along nice dude! Any plans to run a chimney of some sort to funnel smoke?
Reply:Here's an old forge I found on a vacation trip. Looks like it was pieces together with plate and beams.
Reply:No they didn't, but Josh from the Fisher Anvil Museum brought #10 Fisher Chainmaker's, 1000 lb800 lb Fisher500 lb Fisher + pattern150 lb Fisher, NOS, 1949111 lb, Maine made Fisher50 lb, one of the last Fishers, from the last pour58 lb Insonora Fisher export anvil100 lb swage block + pattern0 size, 10 lb FisherI have some other picts I'll post up in another thread when I dig them out of the camera. This one is one Josh posted of his display over on IFI. One of these days I'll make it over to his museum in New Jersey when I have to head out that way to work at a customers place.I'll probably place an order with Yesteryear Forge tomorrow after the credit card billing cycle changes. I'd love to get one of their Ultra jigs, but the $450 price tag is a bit too steep for my blood right now. Even if they do a deal on it and the G2 it's probably still way more than I want to spend right now..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:haha that's insane! I was saving for a Nimba Centurion before buying my 2x72 grinder. I did the same thing, the added features of the ultra jig is worth it- just a lot of change to spend. I plan to get one eventually, once I learn to weld- build a table specifically for it.
Reply:Nimba makes gorgeous brand new anvils. My instructor has a Gladiator as his personal anvil in his shop. It's a thing of beauty. They had a Nimba Titan in the Iron in the hat at the ABANA conference. As much as I'd like one of their anvils I'd probably spend the money on a Bader belt grinder or a power hammer 1st.There recently was a 500 lb Fisher at an auction pretty close to here. Price it went for was pretty "reasonable", about $1300 IIRC..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan