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Drill/Tapping VS Weld-On Nut

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发表于 2021-8-31 22:05:04 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
Wanted to see what others opinions may be on the subject.  Is it a matter of just professional appearance or lasting strength?  If you are not sending something to the SEMA show, does it matter to you to choose one over the other. For uses like one square tube sliding into another, to prevent any rattling, I have been welding on a flange nut and on the bolt head, welding a little piece of round stock for leverage.  AND...I just got through measuring, cutting, fitting up, welding and painting two projects.  The first is finished and went fine, but on the second, I forgot to weld on my flange nut  .  Not a major thing, but I hate to have to repaint anything. I am considering just tapping for a 1/2 bolt (27/64" bit, I think) and going on. Anyway, just curious as to what professionals or perfectionists do.ThanksTxDoc's Photos Lincoln SP175 PlusLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln 250 LX Spool Gun Lincoln Precision Tig 225 Hypertherm 600 KMG 2x72 Belt GrinderBaldor 812RE Grinder
Reply:Its soft steel that you are going into, and I can only assume 1/8 or 3/32 stock? Not really enough for any lasting workage. I do this a lot and the nut is pretty important. I use a grade 5 nut myself. Depends on the importance of the job, but I would just do it right and repaint. sorry. Pretty much all of my shop fixtures incorporate a 2 inch square stock with a 1-1/2 inch 'receiver'. So the welding table for instance, the legs are 2 inch, then the top has a hole cut out to receive the 1-1/2 inch receiver which has anvils, vises, bench grinders, work rollers, Beverly shears, porta-bands, etc, etc.. bolted on a plate with the receiver so I can move these items all over the shop wherever there is a 2 inch hole. All my tables, carts, benches have them. ALL of them have weld nuts on two sides with 1/2 inch  bolts to tighten the items down. I COULD have just tapped the 2 inch but it wouldn't last. Hope this helps.
Reply:Easy: For a client, should match the other one. That's just plain old good practice. For you in the shop, a little self chastising and tap it if you have the wall thickness to do so. I'll not assume anything as to what your material is. Also would depend on how much clamping force you need which means more cranking pressure on the threads. That will require more wall thickness, for more thread surface, to be strong enough not to strip/pop out. You'll need to make that call given what it's function is. My stuff in shop; weld on regular nuts and get on with making money. Someone else? I give them the choice. 200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:Since it is in 1/4" steel tube, receiver hitch, I am just going to remove paint, weld on nut and repaint. Not too much pressure, just enough to snug up to prevent any rattles.Thanks for the replies.TxDoc's Photos Lincoln SP175 PlusLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln 250 LX Spool Gun Lincoln Precision Tig 225 Hypertherm 600 KMG 2x72 Belt GrinderBaldor 812RE Grinder
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