Gate questions

admin

A client is having a privacy fence put up around his daughter's place and wants a gate with automatic opener installed. He wants to put wood on the gate to match the fence. Gate is 8.5' long and will be attached to a 6"x6" wood post. I plan to build the gate frame from 1.5" tubing. What is going to be the best way to attach the hinges to the post to support the weight of this gate? I was planning to use some 1/4" plate to attach the hinge to and then bolt the plate to the post using carriage bolts all the way through the post. The other thing I wondered was if over time the post would bow due to the weight of the gate and should it be tethered to an adjoining post to help with support? I could run a cable or brace from the top of the gate post to the base of the next post in the fence.GraysOrnamentalIron.com
Reply:Look to King architectural for hinge ideas. The hinge post should be as strong and plumb as possible. I would consider using 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 3/16" square tube to match the 4x4's on the rest of the gate, also because you will probably have to weld a extended arm support for the ram to push from. That will be easier out of steel than wood.
Reply:Use strong hinges and connections.  I did a job where the client installed the opener.  Called me tellind the hinges weren't string enough.  However,  the gate was being pushed upward by the opener.  I installed new 1k lbs hinges at their expense.  I have never installed an opener,however I suspect incorrect installation is a culprit to many failures.  Especially if covered up by mega hinges.
Reply:Originally Posted by AlabassA client is having a privacy fence put up around his daughter's place and wants a gate with automatic opener installed. He wants to put wood on the gate to match the fence. Gate is 8.5' long and will be attached to a 6"x6" wood post. I plan to build the gate frame from 1.5" tubing. What is going to be the best way to attach the hinges to the post to support the weight of this gate? I was planning to use some 1/4" plate to attach the hinge to and then bolt the plate to the post using carriage bolts all the way through the post. The other thing I wondered was if over time the post would bow due to the weight of the gate and should it be tethered to an adjoining post to help with support? I could run a cable or brace from the top of the gate post to the base of the next post in the fence.
Reply:Originally Posted by blueriverUse these to go thru the 6x6 ... the one side will weld to the gate.  http://shopironfence.com/shop/j-bolt...-10-pack-of-2/ ... it would be best if the 6x6 was concreted in. The privacy fence will probably be tied into the gate post so that should give extra support to the post.
Reply:So on those J-bolt barrel hinges does it matter where you weld the barrel side. Could you weld the barrel side on the post (if it were steel) and then the J-bolt would go through the frame of the gate ? Obviously you would flip the barrel over.www.tjsperformance.comDynasty 300 DXHTP 240HTP Microcut 380Hyperthem 85JD2 Hyd Bender and HF Hyd Ring Roller all in one =(Frankenbender)Bpt. Mill/DRO4' x 8' CNC Plasma TableInstagram: tjsperformanceYT: TJS Welding and Fabrication
Reply:Originally Posted by TJSSo on those J-bolt barrel hinges does it matter where you weld the barrel side. Could you weld the barrel side on the post (if it were steel) and then the J-bolt would go through the frame of the gate ? Obviously you would flip the barrel over.
Reply:Make sure you install the gate post. Don't rely on your customer adding enough concrete so it doesn't sag over time. I would never install to a wood post. Wood swells over time and will bend. This will cauce constant problems with the swing.Make your bottom rail and hinge rail as strong as possible for weight and the rest of the gate light. Make sure you allow for weight of the wood during your build.
Reply:If possible, a square steel hinge post is a lot stronger, and along with the hinges,it is the most critical feature of the job. Along with being the most hassle to replace of any part.
Reply:Originally Posted by Country MetalsMake sure you install the gate post. Don't rely on your customer adding enough concrete so it doesn't sag over time. I would never install to a wood post. Wood swells over time and will bend. This will cauce constant problems with the swing.Make your bottom rail and hinge rail as strong as possible for weight and the rest of the gate light. Make sure you allow for weight of the wood during your build.
Reply:Then I would definitely run a cable from hinge post diagonally back to the ground level of the next one back. If you can upgrade from a standard J bolt hinge it isn't mandatory, but recommended.
Reply:Just remember the pull to the side is just as great when the gate is open as the pull when it is closed.
Reply:Originally Posted by BobJust remember the pull to the side is just as great when the gate is open as the pull when it is closed.
Reply:I use large weld able bullet hinges.  Found everywhere.  Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:I would anchor to the next post with cable and add a metal support on the inside of the gate to control the forces of the swing. Now this would be set at 90* + or -  a little  to the gate. This would help to offset some of the sagging  of the post when open. You could could add a heavy angle backstrap to the wooden post and do what I suggested too. The add a cable or strapping from the hing side down to the other corner to control the sag in that direction.Klutch 220si mig , stick, and dc tigHobart 140 AHP ALPHA 200X 2016Lotos LTP5000DSmith O/P
Reply:Originally Posted by blueriverI guess they could. I have to ask "why" you would do this?