Tube/pipe Bending dies ?

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What advantage does a 90 degree have over a 180 degree die? Is there situation where one would have to use a 90?
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderWhat advantage does a 90 degree have over a 180 degree die? Is there situation where one would have to use a 90?
Reply:The biggest difference is that with a 90 degree die you can only go to 90 degree or less, with 180 you can do everything up-to 180. I would get 180 degree dies unless the machine is only capable of 90 degrees. The design of the machine is usually the determining factor as t the 90 or 180 degree die. I can not ever remember wishing I had a 90 degree die instead of a 180, but there have been times when I had a machine that would only bend 90 and sure needed to bend more. You can almost make a 180 bend with a 90 degree machine or die by making to separate bends back to back but it is not a true 180 degree bend.Mike
Reply:I built a draw bender, and wouldn't even dream of less than 180* dies.A die of any kind is usually made to bend in excess of the stated bend capacity.  In other words........a 180 will actually go to at least 190.  This has to do with the starting point.  You need to start a bend on the radius in order to be accurate, and repeatable.  Also.......it's hard to start exactly on the entrance of the radius.  It's good to have the few degree fudge factor.An additional issue is springback.  A 90* die can run into trouble when dealing with springback.  You need to go beyond 90 to actually get 90.  If the die is limited to a true 90* radius, it might be impossible to go that extra 5 or so degrees without denting the tube.  I doubt that any commercial die would be limited to a true 90, but ya never know with this imported crap.
Reply:Thanks for the replays.  I have a JD2 32.  Had a mod3.  Rarely use them,  but need a new die.  I was not sure if I would be limited with a 180 degree die vs a 90.  I vaguely recall a proximity issue,  but it has been a while.  The 180 might be a time saver, though.
Reply:By the looks of the pics in this listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/JD2-hydraul...4AAOSwdLJfP8at the bender should have the capability of handling the full 180* dies.Take a close look at the pics,, and you'll see the additional +180* built into the dies.  They probably go at least 190*It's the entrance, and exit points, on the die that matter.    The entrance point must allow the tubing to be started on the radius, otherwise it'll mar the tube.
Reply:Might depend on the bend radius and capacity of the bender.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveMight depend on the bend radius and capacity of the bender.
Reply:I have a JD2 model 3, so pretty much the same geometry as your model 32, and I cannot envision a profile that you can bend on a 90 but not a 180.  Given the location of the follow block, you can't get a second bend close enough to the first one to even come close to hitting the back of the die.Only thing I can see is that you save $30 or $35 per die getting the 90, so if you're absolutely sure you'd never need it, I guess it would save a couple bucks...?  For that little price difference, the 180 degree die seems like a no brainer.Who is John Galt?
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmBy the looks of the pics in this listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/JD2-hydraul...4AAOSwdLJfP8at the bender should have the capability of handling the full 180* dies.Take a close look at the pics,, and you'll see the additional +180* built into the dies.  They probably go at least 190*It's the entrance, and exit points, on the die that matter.    The entrance point must allow the tubing to be started on the radius, otherwise it'll mar the tube.
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormickThe Parker Hanifin will bend the pipe past 180 to a point you have to wrestle and unbend it from the die. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmMine will too.  It's not near as big as the Parker Hanifin (mine's only meant for hyd tubing), and I went with the roller design that Swagelok uses.  I really like those rollers.  Smoooooooooth effortless bends, and no messing with dies.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammmMine will too.  It's not near as big as the Parker Hanifin (mine's only meant for hyd tubing), and I went with the roller design that Swagelok uses.  I really like those rollers.  Smoooooooooth effortless bends, and no messing with dies.
Reply:Originally Posted by jw3Farmersammm what type of bender do you have? Is it home brew or something purchased?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Think I could get a picture or two?Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkMiller BobcatHarris cutting outfitMiller spectrum 625 plasmaVariety of shopmade tools
Reply:Originally Posted by bassboy1I have a JD2 model 3, so pretty much the same geometry as your model 32, and I cannot envision a profile that you can bend on a 90 but not a 180.  Given the location of the follow block, you can't get a second bend close enough to the first one to even come close to hitting the back of the die.Only thing I can see is that you save $30 or $35 per die getting the 90, so if you're absolutely sure you'd never need it, I guess it would save a couple bucks...?  For that little price difference, the 180 degree die seems like a no brainer.