Questions about possible welded Christmas gifts?

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First off let me apologize for writing a book.I, as well as many of my friends and family. are rail fans (i.e. train nerds, foamers et al.)We all happen to be fans of the Illinois Central or Illinois Central Gulf as it was known in the 70's and 80's.Their logo looked like this:

A few months ago I bought about 4 foot of railroad rail at an auction.I am thinking if I could plasma cut out some circles, slice some 1/2" sections of rail off, get some round stock of the right size and slice it to 1/2 and assemble and paint it up correctly I could make a few fair facsimiles of the old ICG logo out of metal as Christmas gifts.This is where I need your help.What's the best way to cut the rail?I have a chop saw and a miter saw.I hear they make miter saw blades that will cut metal, I don't know if they will cut rail.Should I just gnaw through it with the chop saw?Next is how to attach the rail and round stock to the sheet metal/ plate.My thought is the best way would to drill holes in the sheet/ plate that would be behind the rail or round stock and weld it from the back.Does that sound reasonable to you guys?What would be the best thickness to use for the big circle I will need to weld everything else to?I appreciate any and all advice, including "Forget it kid, buy them a gift card"(I am sure there are some members here who can un ironically call a 47 year old kid).Personally I think this is feasible.I have a 220 Volt mig/ stick welder, plasma cutter, chop saw, miter saw, a whole mess of angle grinders and most importantly a couple of months till Christmas.I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Reply:If it were my project, I'd skip cutting that rail and save it for a cool small anvil.  I would find a local weld & fabrication shop, show them your design to scale and have either plasma cut or water jet cut them out of plate steel.  1/4" or thicker would look nice.We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
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Originally Posted by welding1

If it were my project, I'd skip cutting that rail and save it for a cool small anvil.  I would find a local weld & fabrication shop, show them your design to scale and have either plasma cut or water jet cut them out of plate steel.  1/4" or thicker would look nice.
Reply:Since you have a plasma cutter, make a simple template for the cutouts (3/4 plywood would do), cut them and powder coat or paint in original logo color(s). Would be a fun and very doable project that you do yourself! Once you have the template you can turn them out pretty quickly. The template should include the outside circle so one template does it. 11 gauge makes a nice heavy sign. I usually use 14 gauge.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 120www.10FtDrillBit.comwww.MyWelds.com - pictures of my work
Reply:There are you tube videos on cutting rail. I cut some pieces on my Ellis band saw no problems. Then on another chunk, the teeth wore right off. I think it depends on the track you got. Cutting torch is probably the best but use what you have and you'll find out quick. I agree on saving that and having it done CNC.
Reply:Another vote for lighter material that you can cut with your plasma. Expect to do some grinding to get it smooth, and the inside corners will require some hand filing if you don't have a small rotary file. Your chop saw will likely cut the bottom half of the rail with no problem, but when you get to the top where the cars have been pounding it, it's very much a different story. Add to that, your blade on the chop saw will tend to glaze over and quit cutting on a big project like that, so you will end up using multiple blades or coming up with a way to re-dress the wheels. The band saw "might " work, but as mentioned, used rail is not a consistent hardness. Cutting it is one thing, but making thin slices straight enough for decorations is another. What are "foamers"?48" of rail will make three 16" anvils, so you have some gift ideas for next year. I'm curious, what does 4' of rail sell for at auction?Last edited by whtbaron; 17 Hours Ago at 09:57 AM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Too many to multi quote but pretty much what the last 4-6 posters said.

And I too would also like to know the answers to whtbaron’s two questions.

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If your plasma cutter doesn't have the capacity for the rail, use your chop saw to cut the rail. Bandsaw with High quality blade with about 8 tpi would be my go to for nicest, cleanest cut.  O/A torch would be quickest.Best RegardsAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60DPrimeweld 225 ac/dcPrimeweld mig180Miller AEAD-200
Reply:Personally (I think) i would cut 6 or 8" sections of your rail track and  water jet the logo  out of the face I suppose it depends a bit on your track size.:
Reply:Thanks everyone for the many responses.Foamer is a derogatory term for rail fans.It implies that we actually "foam at the mouth" when a train goes by. I looked up the auction and I paid $15 for 2 chunks of rail that are between 2 and 3 feet each, some heavy duty shelving, a big wood box and some other miscellaneous junk.That was quite the deal.6 inches of train track goes for more that $15 on eBay and then there is shipping.I plan to make an anvil out of one of the pieces.That brings up a question, is it worth taking the time and effort to put a horn on the anvil?I don't know how useful a horn on a tiny anvil would be.Both of the sections have been torch cut very sloppily so I will need to clean the ends up.That got me thinking about taking a few 1/2" sections off for the signs.I will try the plasma cutter and the chop saw and see which makes a better cut (if the plasma cutter can even cut it.  It claims to be 55 Amps but those are Chinese amps.  Much smaller than American Amps.)Once I get a 1/2" section off I will see how heavy it is & how it looks and go from there.I might be able to trace around it with the plasma cutter to make the cutout in sheet metal.I need to search YouTube and see how to make stencils for plasma cutting.I assume the hole in the stencil needs to be larger than the finished piece by the amount of the distance from the middle of the torch to the edge?I would like to figure out how to make and use stencils becase I am honest enough to admit I am not going to be freehanding masterpieces out of metal with my plasma cutter.Even if I had a design to trace I would still be much better off following a straight edge or a stencil.Thanks again.
Reply:Using 3/4” plywood, draw your design bigger by 1/2 cup size (around 1/2”) then use a jigsaw to cut it. Sand the cutout smooth because every deviation will show up. Better to use the plasma inside where you want to cut than outside around the track. Any slip of the hand inside the cut won’t matter but outside will ruin your piece. Good luck. It’s easier than it sounds and well worth the effort to make the template since you want several.Burt _____________________Miller Syncrowave 250Millermatic 211Miller 375 Plasma Cutter Hobart Handler 120www.10FtDrillBit.comwww.MyWelds.com - pictures of my work
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Originally Posted by wb4rt

Using 3/4” plywood, draw your design bigger by 1/2 cup size (around 1/2”) then use a jigsaw to cut it. Sand the cutout smooth because every deviation will show up. Better to use the plasma inside where you want to cut than outside around the track. Any slip of the hand inside the cut won’t matter but outside will ruin your piece. Good luck. It’s easier than it sounds and well worth the effort to make the template since you want several.
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Originally Posted by Garfield43

I plan to make an anvil out of one of the pieces.That brings up a question, is it worth taking the time and effort to put a horn on the anvil?I will try the plasma cutter and the chop saw and see which makes a better cut (if the plasma cutter can even cut it.  It claims to be 55 Amps but those are Chinese amps.
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Originally Posted by M J D

Pretty much what I would do with the exception that often times much thinner material is needed with different style of torch drag tips. I've also found hard board,( otherwise known as " Masonite") to hold up better.
Reply:As for using track for an anvil, do a search. Many Blacksmithing sites suggest keeping it long and using vertical. It depends on what you plan on using it for. A horn is definitely handy and so are turning cams.
Reply:.You did say I appreciate any and all advice
Reply:Slice the rail, because it actually MEANS something..................it's a rail from your railroad.Cut some discs, and either make a mobile, or a "box" display.  I have some San Fran cable car tickets, and a replica bell, in a nice display that's glass enclosed, which hangs on a wall.If it's historical, the actual piece makes a difference.  You can oxy cut it if need be, and clean it up..........the rail.  The rest can be plasma cut......the circle.
Reply:I don't just do metal work.  I do photography, and cabinet making(furniture, and other wood items).  I have a very unique home.

Think outside the box, and create anything your skill/wishes desire.  The sky is the limit.  The idea is to showcase the stuff that's important to you.SEE PRIOR POST, ADDRESSING THE OP'S QUESTION, TO PUT THIS POST IN CONTEXTLast edited by farmersammm; 3 Hours Ago at 12:50 AM.Reason: added last sentence
Reply:When you make something, one of the most important things to consider is perspective.  Lines...........it's all about lines.  Especially the lines you see from your perspective.In a long, tall, thin, piece....you need to make the top somewhat larger than the base.  Look at a grandfather clock, a secretary, or a chest of drawers.  The lines matter.  Sometimes inverse, sometimes larger.  It's about balance.I built a nice chest on chest.  To gain proportion, the drawers were made smaller from the base upwards.  A grandfather clock I built was the opposite.........the top was weightier. Your rail just cries out for a nice wall treatment, or a hanging treatment........depending on your taste.
Reply:It's getting late, but before I get outta here......................I like proportion, I like an adherence to reality, I like a show of skill.  I find none of this in Modern Art.  Modern Art is an excuse to fob crap off onto the public.  It's production without creativity, it's an excuse for lack of skill.  Classic lines, and skill, are time honored, and don't become irrelevant. All being said................I can't control the public.  Nobody can.  It's become increasingly clear, that the art buying crowd is less than sophisticated............although they convince themselves otherwise(and why shouldn't they?  You gotta make an excuse for incompetence).When people discuss the "dumbing of America", they're discussing this phenomena, amongst others.  It's a crying shame.  It's the loss of culture.  It's the degradation of civilization.........which leads to other types of disintegration in society.