Welding helmet setup help

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I realize this will probably be a controversial subject because unless you’re new to the welding hobby you probably haven’t dealt with it in a long time, so question for those that may know a trick to setting up a auto darkening helmet how do you find the happy spot where you can see the material and bead without it being too dark or blindingly bright? Is it just a number adjustment of Shade or does the Sensitivity come into play as well? I was welding I believe 10 gauge gas pipe onto 1/4” plate and struggle to see my welding. I had my Miller 211 turned to max. I’m using a Ehab Sentinel A-50. Please give me some tips as I’d really like to do some projects but I’m having difficulties. ThanksLynn

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LynnMillermatic 211
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Originally Posted by disisme

I realize this will probably be a controversial subject because unless you’re new to the welding hobby you probably haven’t dealt with it in a long time, so question for those that may know a trick to setting up a auto darkening helmet how do you find the happy spot where you can see the material and bead without it being too dark or blindingly bright? Is it just a number adjustment of Shade or does the Sensitivity come into play as well? I was welding I believe 10 gauge gas pipe onto 1/4” plate and struggle to see my welding. I had my Miller 211 turned to max. I’m using a Ehab Sentinel A-50. Please give me some tips as I’d really like to do some projects but I’m having difficulties. ThanksLynn
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Reply:I set mine to max shade (13?), then just turn it back down till it's comfortable. The little scale that showed me what shade it was set on has been missing for years. The dial to adjust the shade on my hood is on the outside. I just grab some scrap, strike and arc on it, and adjust the dial while I'm looking at the arc.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:I have the same hood. I turn my sensitivity up until the lens darkens, then back it off just enough for it to go back to clear. As for setting the shade, that will depend on your eyes. My eyes aren't that sensitive, so I very seldom go above a shade 10. If yoou are running that mm211 wide open, you might start at a shade 12 and then back it down a little at a time until you can see the puddle.
Reply:Shade 10 is what I use any where from 60 - 400 amps usually in the higher range I'm Carbon arc gouging.  Some time I use tinted safety glasses in the upper range.   Ive noticed most auto shields just dont the clarity of a good high quality lens.   Wens Lense rock!   Also make sure your using clean cover plates, get extra and change often.We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
Reply:Everyone's eyes are different, and it depends on the material being welded along with things like ambient light, glare on the inside of the helmet from overhead lights and shielding gas/amount of welding fumes. There's a guy at work who uses a shade 13 on TIG at like 50 amps. I would use a shade 9 but 13 works for him so it doesn't really matter so long as you can see what you're doing.Which helmet were you using? Some of the cheap-o ones are a bit suspect in terms of their performance. Does it actually darken when you strike an arc? Could be the helmet is broken or isn't picking up the arc for whatever reason if it seems too bright still even at max.
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Originally Posted by Thoriated Wolfram

Everyone's eyes are different, and it depends on the material being welded along with things like ambient light, glare on the inside of the helmet from overhead lights and shielding gas/amount of welding fumes. There's a guy at work who uses a shade 13 on TIG at like 50 amps. I would use a shade 9 but 13 works for him so it doesn't really matter so long as you can see what you're doing.Which helmet were you using? Some of the cheap-o ones are a bit suspect in terms of their performance. Does it actually darken when you strike an arc? Could be the helmet is broken or isn't picking up the arc for whatever reason if it seems too bright still even at max.
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Originally Posted by welding1

Shade 10 is what I use any where from 60 - 400 amps usually in the higher range I'm Carbon arc gouging.  Some time I use tinted safety glasses in the upper range.   Ive noticed most auto shields just dont the clarity of a good high quality lens.   Wens Lense rock!   Also make sure your using clean cover plates, get extra and change often.
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Originally Posted by 'Stang

I have the same hood. I turn my sensitivity up until the lens darkens, then back it off just enough for it to go back to clear. As for setting the shade, that will depend on your eyes. My eyes aren't that sensitive, so I very seldom go above a shade 10. If yoou are running that mm211 wide open, you might start at a shade 12 and then back it down a little at a time until you can see the puddle.
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Originally Posted by Bob E.



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Originally Posted by Oldiron2

Sensitivity adjusts how soon the lens "brightens", stops reacting to heat given off by the workpiece after the wedding arc stops.The Shade controls to what degree the lens darkens, and is what you want to optimize. Don't look directly at the arc; look at the surrounding area and the puddle just beside the arc. Also, position yourself so hand and arm movement aren't restricted; so you can follow the needed path with your eyes shut, without wandering off track. Practice on scrap until both the sight and movement techniques seem correct and automatic. Same with machine settings; to get good penetration and coverage without overdoing it.Do be aware that the sight picture will never be quite as clean, clear nor as pretty as gazing out the open window of your mountain cabin at a colorful sunset.
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Originally Posted by Oldiron2

Sensitivity adjusts how soon the lens "brightens", stops reacting to heat given off by the workpiece after the wedding arc stops..
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Originally Posted by Oscar

That would be Delay, not sensitivity.  Sensitivity is used to alter the onset of the darkening based on the anticipated brightness.  Higher sensitivity "sees"  weaker welding arcs easier (to then begin the onset of darkening).  Low sensitivity accepts more welding arc light before the onset of the darkening.
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Originally Posted by Oscar

That would be Delay, not sensitivity.  Sensitivity is used to alter the onset of the darkening based on the anticipated brightness.  Higher sensitivity "sees"  weaker welding arcs easier (to then begin the onset of darkening).  Low sensitivity accepts more welding arc light before the onset of the darkening.
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Originally Posted by welding1

Shade 10 is what I use any where from 60 - 400 amps usually in the higher range I'm Carbon arc gouging.
Reply:I'm not familiar with your machine but generally turning the knobs all the way to the right is 100% of your machines rated output. Half way should be about 50%, and so on.That chart is the current one from Lincoln by the way, and taking a closer look at it, they seem to be more concerned with protecting our eyesight than what I remember from their old charts. If you have bright overhead lights or sunshine pouring into the back of your helmet that will make it hard to see too. Same idea as when you try to look out your windows at night with the lights on vs off.