Never seen anything like this.

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Syncrowave 250 w/ coolrunnerMM210 W/spoolgunSP 135Victor O/ARamsond cut 50Titanium Stick 225.
Reply:There's been stoopid vids like that around for years. I'm told in ww2 shipyards building liberties, the girls and guys had triangular frames that held the rods on point while they burned down. That way one welder could keep multiple rods running and just jumped from one stinger to the next replacing rods as needed.
Reply:That must be that magical 7014 I keep hearing about. Just lay the rod down and it welds itself.Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
Reply:Is it just me, or did that not seem slower than if you had been manipulating the rod?The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I seen that with E7024.If everything is right the flux almost falls off.Dave

Originally Posted by Tbones


Reply:Really? You never saw Jody Collier do this? Jump ahead to 7:45 in this videoMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:Isn't that like submerged arc???
Reply:This was the video that played after that magical welding trick... Who knew? "PROFESSIONAL DRILL SHARPING" is done with a tool post grinder in a metal lathe... and finished off free hand............ with a die grinder.

And to think... I always assumed they used tool and cutter grinders and twist drill grinders. Talk about egg on my face.Last edited by 52 Ford; 1 Week Ago at 10:29 PM.
Reply:Oops.....
Reply:

Originally Posted by 52 Ford

This was the video that played after that magical welding trick... Who knew? "PROFESSIONAL DRILL SHARPING" is done with a tool post grinder in a metal lathe... and finished off free hand............ with a die grinder.

And to think... I always assumed they used tool and cutter grinders and twist drill grinders. Talk about egg on my face.
Reply:

Originally Posted by whtbaron

I've never seen anyone sharpen a bit to a pencil point like that... why would they do that?
Reply:Maybe he just wanted a taper hole?
Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

Maybe he just wanted a taper hole?
Reply:Steeper angle on the drill bit is less aggressive. Nice for drilling harder to drill metals like stainless, binds up less because it bights less. I could also see it being good for plastics to help the plastic from cracking. I normally just use a worn out drill bit when I work with plastic, spin up the rpm and just let it rub it's way through.  Wider angle is more aggressive and will cut faster, nice for Aluminum or mild steel. At least that is what I have been basing the angle of my drill bits on.Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
Reply:I have try that for hand drilling 9/16". It works but it full torque and fast.Very hard to re-sharpen Dave

Originally Posted by 52 Ford

This was the video that played after that magical welding trick... Who knew? "PROFESSIONAL DRILL SHARPING" is done with a tool post grinder in a metal lathe... and finished off free hand............ with a die grinder.

And to think... I always assumed they used tool and cutter grinders and twist drill grinders. Talk about egg on my face.
Reply:I've shaped a drill bit something like that before so I could use it as a center punch.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Roert42

Steeper angle on the drill bit is less aggressive. Nice for drilling harder to drill metals like stainless, binds up less because it bights less. I could also see it being good for plastics to help the plastic from cracking. I normally just use a worn out drill bit when I work with plastic, spin up the rpm and just let it rub it's way through.  Wider angle is more aggressive and will cut faster, nice for Aluminum or mild steel. At least that is what I have been basing the angle of my drill bits on.
Reply:

Originally Posted by whtbaron

I've never seen anyone sharpen a bit to a pencil point like that... why would they do that?
Reply:Inch/second sounds like it could be a good thing?I was thinking it is a good way to get flared opening with ours setting up the lathe to do the taper.  My first thought was some type of burner nozzle.
Reply:

Originally Posted by CAVEMANN

Not correct, with nearly 15 years in an industrial machine shop, that kind of point is intended for softer materials like wood, we ALWAYS used bits with significantly flatter points than the standard 118* point for drilling stainless and other hardplate, run em slow with a LOT of feed, 118 * is kind of a "catch all" compromise for a drill point.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Roert42

I wasn't referring to that drill bit specifically. If I'm sharpening a bit for stainless, I may bring the angle to 110* or so, and if I'm working with something soft I may go a little flatter. When you resharpen your drill bits you can do whatever you like, your not stuck with what you can get off McMasterCarr.