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Hello, I am seeking advice on how to keep moisture away from 7018 rods. I know a rod oven will work, but Im not so keen on having something plugged in 24/7. Are there any ways to temporarily keep 7018 dry, such as a case?
Reply:Seal them with a vacuum packerSent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
http://www.philswelding.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
Seal them with a vacuum packerSent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
Seal them with a vacuum packerSent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:I keep my 7018 in one of those round plastic rod containerswith the gasketed screw top. Not sure how much it really does, Moisture doesn’t seem to be a problem.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:It is in the AWS Data to heat the rod to 350°F before welding. It more of line work you doing to heat or not. Building , pipe line any time some life maybe in danger you heat rod.AG type work no heat if breaks it only reds face day or maybe buying new horse 🐎 too.Dave
Originally Posted by jpump5
I keep my 7018 in one of those round plastic rod containerswith the gasketed screw top. Not sure how much it really does, Moisture doesn’t seem to be a problem.
Reply:Sounds great now get pass AWS.Dave
Originally Posted by MetalMan23
Seal them with a vacuum packerSent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by TooNew
Hello, I am seeking advice on how to keep moisture away from 7018 rods. I know a rod oven will work, but I’m not so keen on having something plugged in 24/7. Are there any ways to temporarily keep 7018 dry, such as a case?
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
Screw-top plastic tubes are sold for storing rods. One could be modified with fittings to allow evacuation, and for permanent storage, could then be filled with dry argon. Refrigeration evacuation pumps are ideal for such jobs, but both the household pumps and dry silica gel will work well.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Country Metals
You can do this and purchase the silica packets to throw in the tube to draw the moisture out.
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Originally Posted by StandarDyne
As has been said here before, I think the coating on the 7018 is a stronger desiccant than silica gel. In other words, the rod coating will "dry out" the silica gel, not vice-versa.Pretty sure silica gel won't keep dry rod dry, let alone draw moisture out of it. Otherwise people wouldn't spend big money on heated rod keepers.OP, unless you're doing code work, I wouldn't worry about it. Dry or not, 7018 still has many benefits over other fillers.
Reply:For longer term storage, rather than spend the $ to buy a commercial rod oven, you can build your own by taking an old dorm sized refrigerator and adding a lamp socket inside. A 60 watt incandescent bulb will keep the temp high enough so that humidity is not a problem.Miller Trailblazer Pro 350DMiller Suitcase MIGMiller Spectrum 2050Miller Syncrowave 250DXLincoln 210MP
Reply:
Originally Posted by scsmith42
For longer term storage, rather than spend the $ to buy a commercial rod oven, you can build your own by taking an old dorm sized refrigerator and adding a lamp socket inside. A 60 watt incandescent bulb will keep the temp high enough so that humidity is not a problem.
Reply:as mentioned by others i also keep opened cartons of welding rod in plastic rod storage containers with the gasketed cap. they do the job and are usually less than $10 each
7018s i keep in a rod oven. i am strictly a hobbyist and as such do no code work. i prefer using 7018s hot as they seem to strike and run nicer
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Reply:
Originally Posted by scsmith42
For longer term storage, rather than spend the $ to buy a commercial rod oven, you can build your own by taking an old dorm sized refrigerator and adding a lamp socket inside. A 60 watt incandescent bulb will keep the temp high enough so that humidity is not a problem.
Reply:Looks like I’m not the only one to have liberated a weather tightoperator manual holder for use as an electrode case. Minecame off a light tower. Manual was long since gone.Miller a/c-d/c Thunderbolt XLMillermatic 180 Purox O/ASmith Littletorch O/AHobart Champion Elite
Reply:
Originally Posted by jpump5
Looks like Im not the only one to have liberated a weather tightoperator manual holder for use as an electrode case. Minecame off a light tower. Manual was long since gone.
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I've been thinking about this... even have a dead bar fridge sitting here waiting for the job. It might get built some day or I might even break the piggy bank for a small oven to hold 10 lbs at a time. .
Reply:Did a quick search around Amazon.... cheap Chinese start around $200 Cdn and I've seen the small Lincoln anywhere from $400 to $800. Something similar to yours looks to be around $1200. For what I do, the lightbulb in the fridge is looking better all the time...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Did a quick search around Amazon.... cheap Chinese start around $200 Cdn and I've seen the small Lincoln anywhere from $400 to $800. Something similar to yours looks to be around $1200. For what I do, the lightbulb in the fridge is looking better all the time...
Reply:I have non-sealed plastic containers for most of them... when I'm not using them I seal the joint with tape. The heated fridge would just be extra assurance. I haven't had any moisture probs with the rods since I moved to the heated shop.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I personally believe the moisture issue with 7018 is over hyped. I used to keep them in a rod oven or at least bake them the night before. I worked for a marine construction company and they never did anything I saw cans of 7018 left outside on a barge for days open and other then getting rained on no one seemed concerned. Now if your doing code work or welding at a nuclear power plant then you should keep them in an oven. But we never had any issues with weld failure or hydrogen cracking of welds or heat effected zones, this included some really high stress stuff like welding an excavator boom back together, ect. In my opinion I wouldnt worry about moisture on 7018 keep them out of the rain and they will be fine a 50lb can of 7018 isnt going to last more than a week or two at most just open one can at a time store them inside and you should be fine.
Reply:I use old surplus military ammo boxes and equipment containers for lots of things, electrodes included. A smaller one has a quart size Gorilla Glue container that's about half used, a few years old, and the glue is still about as thin as when new. A quick search of Ebay found an ad [Here] with the box pictured below which I have at least a dozen of, mine all in better shape. The 20mm ammo cans are an ideal size for storing electrodes.
I have a pair of much larger (~23"x25"x16" ) Korean War (?) era Radio equipment boxes with some corrosion damage. I need to sandblast, repaint and repair both but being made of magnesium, I think fiberglass will have to do since I have no reasonable access to sheet magnesium or appropriate rods, and back-shielding would be a pain to set up. I don't even have a real need for them or a great place to store them...but they were free at a city metal recycling site some years ago.
Reply:
Originally Posted by TooNew
Hello, I am seeking advice on how to keep moisture away from 7018 rods. I know a rod oven will work, but I’m not so keen on having something plugged in 24/7. Are there any ways to temporarily keep 7018 dry, such as a case?
Reply:It is pricey. You need for some types of work. Dave
Originally Posted by Lis2323
holy crap
i had no idea how much the 10 pounder costs now. check ebay. i got my 50 # "scratch and dent" new in box with warranty for $150 cdn btw. the small phoenix 10# is preferred over the Lincoln
Originally Posted by Louie1961
I wouldn't bother. If you aren't going to keep them in the original hermetically sealed cans or a rod oven, then virtually nothing else you are going to do will help them maintain their low hydrogen properties. Not refrigerators, not desiccants, not vacuum packing them.
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
Did a quick search around Amazon.... cheap Chinese start around $200 Cdn and I've seen the small Lincoln anywhere from $400 to $800. Something similar to yours looks to be around $1200. For what I do, the lightbulb in the fridge is looking better all the time...
Reply:Its probably cheaper to stock a few hermetically sealed cans than it is to install a rod oven https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...b?cm_vc=-10005Miller Multimatic 255
Reply:I'm not an expert on the topic, but it does get tiring to have this come up time and again. Aside from warm rods starting easier and maybe running a bit smoother (most hobby welders likely aren't good enough to notice the difference) people are worrying about something that rarely applies. The reason 7018 rods have to be kept dry is to prevent hydrogen embrittlement. That sounds like something you'd want to avoid, but for hobby welding it almost never applies. You CAN'T get hydrogen embrittlement if you're welding mild steel.It requires three things for hydrogen embrittlement to become a problem. A steel which is susceptible to it because of higher carbon content or alloying properties. A high degree of restraint, usually due to very thick sections. Lastly, a source of moisture (the wet rod). So, if you aren't welding higher strength steel in thick sections that will be restrained, it simply doesn't matter.I've looked at the power draws for rod ovens and I can't imagine wasting the electricity to keep rods warm all the time unless you're welding every day. If I was going to go that route I'd probably just turn the oven on first thing in the morning while I'm having coffee and the rods wouldn't know the difference. Drying ovens and holding ovens are different. A drying oven has to be able to get 7018 up to 500-800*F and hold it there for 1-2 hours. Most holding ovens can't do that. If your oven can't dry the rod there's no need to do anything more than briefly warm it up to get the easier starts.Check out my bench vise website: http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
. If I was going to go that route I'd probably just turn the oven on first thing in the morning while I'm having coffee and the rods wouldn't know the difference. Most holding ovens can't do that. If your oven can't dry the rod there's no need to do anything more than briefly warm it up to get the easier starts.
Reply:The input power consumption on the 10 lbs. I have is 80w. If the thermostat never shut off, which it does, it would cost me about $0.20 CAD per day to leave it on continuously 24/7. Your power cost are likely higher than mine. I actually don't leave it on non-stop but I do like the way the 7018 runs hot. YMMVSide note- At the time I bought this oven Amazon in Canada wanted about $300.00 for the same model.---Meltedmetal
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
I'm not an expert on the topic, but it does get tiring to have this come up time and again. Aside from warm rods starting easier and maybe running a bit smoother (most hobby welders likely aren't good enough to notice the difference) people are worrying about something that rarely applies. The reason 7018 rods have to be kept dry is to prevent hydrogen embrittlement. That sounds like something you'd want to avoid, but for hobby welding it almost never applies. You CAN'T get hydrogen embrittlement if you're welding mild steel.It requires three things for hydrogen embrittlement to become a problem. A steel which is susceptible to it because of higher carbon content or alloying properties. A high degree of restraint, usually due to very thick sections. Lastly, a source of moisture (the wet rod). So, if you aren't welding higher strength steel in thick sections that will be restrained, it simply doesn't matter.I've looked at the power draws for rod ovens and I can't imagine wasting the electricity to keep rods warm all the time unless you're welding every day. If I was going to go that route I'd probably just turn the oven on first thing in the morning while I'm having coffee and the rods wouldn't know the difference. Drying ovens and holding ovens are different. A drying oven has to be able to get 7018 up to 500-800*F and hold it there for 1-2 hours. Most holding ovens can't do that. If your oven can't dry the rod there's no need to do anything more than briefly warm it up to get the easier starts.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Meltedmetal
The input power consumption on the 10 lbs. I have is 80w. If the thermostat never shut off, which it does, it would cost me about $0.20 CAD per day to leave it on continuously 24/7. Your power cost are likely higher than mine. I actually don't leave it on non-stop but I do like the way the 7018 runs hot. YMMVSide note- At the time I bought this oven Amazon in Canada wanted about $300.00 for the same model.
Reply:I fully understand the implications that it doesn't matter from a hydrogen embrittlement point of view, but I would like to try the warm rods. Another question... you guys keep talking about storing them in the hermetically sealed "cans". What I buy in 10 lb packages off the shelf are usually cardboard containers (hopefully) wrapped in plastic shrink wrap. Is the moisture level already compromised before I buy them? Some do have a sealed cellaphane inside, some just a folded over plastic wrap... now I want to go check which are which but I don't want to be opening new packages until I need them...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Old toaster Oven.Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I fully understand the implications that it doesn't matter from a hydrogen embrittlement point of view, but I would like to try the warm rods. Another question... you guys keep talking about storing them in the hermetically sealed "cans". What I buy in 10 lb packages off the shelf are usually cardboard containers (hopefully) wrapped in plastic shrink wrap. Is the moisture level already compromised before I buy them? Some do have a sealed cellaphane inside, some just a folded over plastic wrap... now I want to go check which are which but I don't want to be opening new packages until I need them...
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I’ve read where some will lay the rods on top of a woodstove and feel the 7018’s start and run better. A wintertime endeavour obviously…..Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Roert42
Old toaster Oven.
Reply:apparently the "air fry" mode works best for 7018:
Reply:Just stick the rods in the microwave.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Just stick the rods in the microwave.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
I fully understand the implications that it doesn't matter from a hydrogen embrittlement point of view, but I would like to try the warm rods. Another question... you guys keep talking about storing them in the hermetically sealed "cans". What I buy in 10 lb packages off the shelf are usually cardboard containers (hopefully) wrapped in plastic shrink wrap. Is the moisture level already compromised before I buy them? Some do have a sealed cellaphane inside, some just a folded over plastic wrap... now I want to go check which are which but I don't want to be opening new packages until I need them...
Reply:
Originally Posted by G-ManBart
. Warm rod, regardless of moisture content is usually going to start easier and run smoother. I don't have scientific evidence, but I suspect this is simply a temperature issue rather than true moisture content issue.
Reply:Let the sparks fly ✨ .Dave
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Just stick the rods in the microwave.Sent from my Lincoln Buzzbox using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
What I buy in 10 lb packages off the shelf are usually cardboard containers (hopefully) wrapped in plastic shrink wrap. Is the moisture level already compromised before I buy them?
Reply:I found putting into oven after open for day see water 💧 come out rod. Still waiting for someone to the wife's kitchen oven for rod heating I know will fly with wife.Dave
Originally Posted by StandarDyne
Almost certainly. Generally speaking, water (even as vapor/gas) goes where it wants to go, and it's very hard to stop it. It readily migrates even through fiberglass-reinforced plastic boat hulls, so I suspect it defeats 2-mil-thick plastic wrappers even before the electrodes leave the factory floor.
Reply:Check out the link I posted. Those rods come hermetically sealed in a steel can. Upon opening, those will be as good as rods from a proper rod oven for 4-8 hours depending on the rating of the rod. Once opened and past that 4-8 hour window, they are the functional equivalent of the rods shipped in cardboard or plastic and need to be redried at 800 degrees to be low hydrogen once again
Reply:I agree this should be a sticky If you are really really really wondering about it take an old oven pu a 100 watt bulb in it and store your rod in there there are hundreds of lbs of 7018 burned without being stored in an oven there are very few field welders carrying an oven but yet they weld with it every day 7018 out of a oven gas a place but again if you use 7010 instead of 60xx you get the same results as 7018 that hasn’t been stored except a little more spatter and a little more technique so yes 7018 not stored runs a nicer bead and a higher deposition rate which makes it easier for a novice welder
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Perhaps this is similar in nature to the hot start feature in modern stick welders?
Reply:It has happened. A guy worked for me went to work for a tile contractor and a guy who tends to know more about such stuff than other people do especially guys work for him. My bud called me when they went to do this job, weld a wear shoe thing for a tile machine. It was kind of expensive and lotso weld in a big groove and I said, you guys get 200# or whatever in 50# cans and get a couple guys and weld them right out, open a new can, run them. So,,, no,,, boss has a better idea, finds from a firend they are dumping 500# of lohy in open cans in the dumpster,,, little rust on them doesntr hurt, we can turn the current up, all kinds of stuff, cause, he knows stuff like that. Scott said, couple times,,, man, this is a poor spot to guess given the work, the expence and I call a bud etc,,, but noooo,,,, so,,, they spear this in the ground and first rock in come to, cracks right off, said just like you busted a cracker. I have seen pics in a book of those multi pass failures, laminate and underbead and have even seen it happen single pass on heavier steel with older rod, whole underbead just pop[ right out especially under shock.www.urkafarms.com |
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发表于 2022-9-16 15:52:33