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My 47 Lincoln SA200 got stuck from non use for 20 yrs it sat. Got continental 163 freed up went thru most of the engine, rings, valve job, shaved head, rebuilt carb. It will run if I spray a little starting fluid in carb but won't suck up any gas. I soaked the carb over night, adjusted the float cleaned carb again, same thing. Rechecked valve settings. Hate to buy a new carb, expensive. Any thoughts on what I might try to do? Mugzy
Reply:Have you checked the fuel lines? With age, they can swell internally and no longer flow.(Or is the bowl full? You don't mention . . . )
Reply:
Originally Posted by tadawson
Have you checked the fuel lines? With age, they can swell internally and no longer flow.(Or is the bowl full? You don't mention . . . )
Reply:
Originally Posted by mugzy
I have a temporary small tank on, the bowl wasn't full enough so I adjusted the float a little and its almost up to the top. I watched the video about setting the valves a dozen times, could it be something with that. Its a hand crank, starts right away with either but doesn.t get gas. Plugs are bone dry. Until the motor got stuck it purred like a kitten.
Reply:Check the inlet fitting. If original, it likely has a filter screen that may be clogged.I also recommend a chemical carburetor/parts soak for 20-30 minutes followed by a warm, soapy water rinse and blow dry.This is my go to for cleaning carburetors:https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...+cleaner&pos=0MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110
Save Second Base!
Reply:
Originally Posted by duaneb55
Check the inlet fitting. If original, it likely has a filter screen that may be clogged.I also recommend a chemical carburetor/parts soak for 20-30 minutes followed by a warm, soapy water rinse and blow dry.This is my go to for cleaning carburetors:https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c...+cleaner&pos=0
Reply:
Originally Posted by mugzy
I have a temporary small tank on, the bowl wasn't full enough so I adjusted the float a little and its almost up to the top. I watched the video about setting the valves a dozen times, could it be something with that. Its a hand crank, starts right away with either but doesn.t get gas. Plugs are bone dry. Until the motor got stuck it purred like a kitten.
Reply:carb is a marvel schebler #239 on it. Original tank goes above the carb and temp tank is above the carb. Carb is boiling right now. I did find 2 little holes (ports) coming into the throat of the carb that I didn't see before. One hole had a rust ball in the opening. I got it out in the sun to find them. I had soaked carb in gal of gunk parts cleaner for 24 hrs and thought that would have dissolved all rust and gunk. I'll see how things go when I get done boiling. Thanks, these 2 passages were definitely hidden.
Reply:
Originally Posted by mugzy
carb is a marvel schebler #239 on it....I did find 2 little holes (ports) coming into the throat of the carb that I didn't see before. One hole had a rust ball in the opening. .... Thanks, these 2 passages were definitely hidden.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Oldiron2
I have an old Schebler that had been removed an early farmsite powerplant from perhaps the 1920's, the engine/generator having been destroyed when the original house burned few years later. Anyway, a quick search found the following information (on This page) copied below, for your unit. The website page is somewhat larger and clearer. Notice that at the bottom of the page under the breakdown picture, it shows three types of jet having been used.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
If that's the case, you still have a plugged up carb. take it apart again and boil it in water for an hour or so to get that nasty gas residue loosened up. When that stuff turns to varnish a quick spray with carb cleaner doesn't get it done.
Reply:You have to take the needles out and blow it with hi pressure air.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:If it wont run after cleaning its something you dun or didnt do. It doesnt need a new carb unless u busticated it but you need to get all the jets or bleeds out, blow with hi air. Only 2 that were is relative working order ever needed a part, needle on one and someone busted the air horn on reassembly on another.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sberry
You have to take the needles out and blow it with hi pressure air.
Reply:There's a passageway to the main jet in the very bottom of the bowl that gets plugged with sediment/debris such that you can't even make it out so be sure to inspect that area.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110
Save Second Base!
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
Yeah, I forgot to mention that part. Blow both ways to make sure the passages are clear, including the fuel inlet to the float needle. And if it was reassembled without the plastic air horn it will not draw fuel.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
Yeah, I forgot to mention that part. Blow both ways to make sure the passages are clear, including the fuel inlet to the float needle. And if it was reassembled without the plastic air horn it will not draw fuel.
Reply:
Originally Posted by mugzy
I'm stumped on the plastic air horn. I'm not sure what that part is. I will have to find a better screw driver to get the one small needle valve out. There are so few parts in there. I used brake cleaner spray can with red long spray nozzle and watched the spray come out the different holes. I don't think any of the parts are buggered up.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
Part number 12 in the diagram.
Reply:
Originally Posted by mugzy
thats what I figured it has to be. My venturi (plastic air horn) is brass. There is a small crack in brass on bottom end, might be part of the problem. Have to find small screw driver to get #15 out. May be dirt beyond that. Haven't been able break that loose. Its been nice to hear it run, even if the gas is coming off a wet rag.
Reply:
Originally Posted by mugzy
thats what I figured it has to be. My venturi (plastic air horn) is brass. There is a small crack in brass on bottom end, might be part of the problem. Have to find small screw driver to get #15 out. May be dirt beyond that. Haven't been able break that loose. Its been nice to hear it run, even if the gas is coming off a wet rag.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 12V71
Before you try to get those brass jet screws out, go get a long reach torch tip cleaner and gently probe the passages. But for whatever reason, you are not getting gas to the bowl, if the bowl is full it should at least try to fire with the choke on.
Reply:Have you checked the passage in the bottom o the bowl that feeds the main jet I mentioned in post #15? Common to see this plugged with rust and sediment.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110
Save Second Base!
Reply:I checked all the passages, all seem to be clean, spray in one end and it comes out other end. probed every where today. I'm walking away from it for awhile. I guess I'm frustrated. I put a different float in and needle and seat today and still no luck. I will try and find new jets, they don't come with carb kit. I want to thank everyone for the help and advise. The welding web has been great. Mugzy
Reply:The passage I'm referring to is behind plugs #28 and #29 in the diagram and opens to both sides of the "wall" in the bottom of the float bowl.MM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110
Save Second Base!We soldered up a brass horn a while back,www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by duaneb55
The passage I'm referring to is behind plugs #28 and #29 in the diagram and opens to both sides of the "wall" in the bottom of the float bowl.
Reply:
Originally Posted by duaneb55
The passage I'm referring to is behind plugs #28 and #29 in the diagram and opens to both sides of the "wall" in the bottom of the float bowl.
Reply:
Originally Posted by mugzy
those 2 passages are open but I'm wondering if gas is supposed to come into bottom of bole at bottom of the main nozzle #24.
Reply:I got the SA200 running this evening. it was blocked up below #24 main nozzle. Soaked it all day, probed with long tip cleaner, fought with it on and off all summer and got into one little area, finally, and away it went. There should be a plug on the bowl to get in there but it was soldered over before my time. Will have to tame it down, its running a little wild. I want to thank everyone for there help and ideas. My grandson had 3-4 yrs of welding in high school, certified in 3 types of welding, he is 18 and got a good job welding, I know this machine is old school but I was fixing it for him. Thanks again, Mugzy
Reply:I'm sure you already got this, but to get mine running I had to use torch tip cleaners on part number 24 in the above diagram, which is called the main nozzle. It had some small holes in the sides that were plugged up, and cleaning those did the trick.
Reply:Good lesson here, no need to chase every part u can find before getting in to it, once you learn to clean one can have some off and back on in 15 minutes. Some can even simply pull the bowl if they not rusted shut. I use the old gasket, couple cracks not a deal and its not full of fuel to that level.www.urkafarms.com |
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发表于 2022-9-16 15:52:28