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This has been rolling around on the floor of the pickup for about a week. 2" 1/4 wall DOM. The new bushing, or bushing housing, for the axle pivot pin.Without unsolicited sage advice
, it's a tossup. Whether to run steel on steel, or make a new housing that will fit a new 660 bronze bushing.Bushings are available https://agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerc...-kit-xd719kit/So are pins https://agpartsfirstllc.mybigcommerc...-pin-72160081/It's a good chance that the housing/tubing that holds the bushing is trashed. The axle slams so hard it makes the entire tractor shudder. It's a forgone conclusion that any trace of a bushing is gone, as well as a good deal of the tube that goes through the axle, which held the bushings.By the looks of what's left of the rear pivot bushing on the brace arm, they were all steel backed super thin bushings. The type that do fine, until they don't do fine. When they go, they take the surrounding material with them. As is the case at present. The rear brace will need an entire buildup, and remachine.The thick wall on the DOM is suitable for machining the ID to accept a bushing, or simply sizing it for a new pin made from either 1018, or Stress Proof. I'm leaning towards steel on steel.I have a line on some 932 bronze for machining a new bushing, but haven't decided whether to utilize it.1018 running against the DOM will have a tendency to wear both parts, although it's a long process if kept well greased................which this tractor has always been (the front end has been loose for the 25yrs I've owned it, and grease has kept it going). Stress Proof will wear a bit different, with a tendency to wear the housing first. Although sometimes hard on soft is a good combination, and will outlast like materials running against each other(same Rockwell, or Brinell). And Stress Proof machines like a dream. I believe I'll be using Stress Proof if I can get it here on time.Bronze will wear better until it doesn't. Constant pounding takes a toll on bronze, making it deform. I've never taken down a bronze bushed assembly that didn't involve a trashed bushing, and ruined pin. It's simply the nature of the beast.I don't do PM on this kind of stuff. Most people don't...........so don't cry about it
. It's a common failure on the old row crop tractors. Thin axles that weren't really made for constant pounding, combined with long kingpins that act like levers.........on top of which....the kingpins are perpendicular to the axle, with no caster. I'd wager the newer MFD tractors don't experience this problem as much.....dunno. I don't intend to spend 90K to find out.I should note........... Bushed assemblies generally, as in this case, involve a relatively short bushing at either end of the pin. I'd imagine that only 30% of the pin length is supported by the bushings. A steel-on-steel assembly is entirely supported its full length.
Reply:Almost forgot.Besides allowing for any machining to take a bushing(if need be), the thick wall on the DOM allows me to fiddle with the final diameter to accommodate the new pin diameter.The pivot casting that holds all of this mess is slightly wallowed, and will require a slightly oversized pin......greater than 1.5 inches.And.......the thick wall will take the heat if I need to pour a ton of filler in to close the gap between the DOM, and the axle tube. The existing bushing housing will have to be cut out of the axle tube.Last edited by farmersammm; 4 Weeks Ago at 01:08 AM.
Reply:The material for the pin is coming from Ebay. Won't be here for a few days. 1144 . I may regret going steel on steel, but it's the fastest, easiest, way to get back up and running.Pics later showing the damage. The axle has eaten through the protruding bushing sleeve, and worked its way into the casting that holds the pin. In almost 60yrs, it's covered a lot of ground I guess.Due to the delay in getting materials, which is entirely my fault..................it's off to the steel store today to pick up some 3/8 plate for the high cut skids on the Krone mower. The idea is to keep moving ahead with something, while waiting on parts/steel for the tractor. Just keep pluggin' away
I might be able to stand the bright light enough today to get something done.
Reply:The material for the pin showed up today. That's fine, I guess.Looking at the tractor, and looking at what it's used for, I'm wondering if the front wheels are actually right for it. They're narrow 7.5 tires that need to carry a lot of pressure to support the front of the tractor. Consequently, they're a rough ride due to the high inflation pressure. It's tearing up the front end.Being as we're getting ready to rebuild the pivot, I'm wondering if it might be a good move to go to a wider tire. Something on the order of at least 10.00 inches.This tractor has been retired from field use. It's been relegated to hay harvesting. It doesn't have to follow a furrow anymore, so the narrow wheels are not necessary. The Case is the only tractor left that has to do field work.
Reply:The 5020 and the 4440 both have 11;00x 16's and I like to keep them around 28 lbs so there's a bit of give for the spindles. The 4020 with a straight blade has 10;00x 16's which are adequate, but lack the flotation of the bigger tires. Either way you'll likely have to buy wider wheels and the 11;00's will raise the front of the tractor significantly. Those front wheel assist tractors have their own issues with seals and joints that will crop up a lot more frequently than your front axle pivot.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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The first part for the lifting fixture got done today, and precious little else
Allergies hit like an axe, and Benadryl killed the bulk of the day.
The tractor only has one, what I judge to be safe, place to lift the front end. There's drilled/tapped holes in the frame rail at this point. I have no idea what they were originally for, but they seem to be a good place to do the lift.
As usual, you build from the equipment out. Fit any precision stuff (the mounting plates I made), then add any material to this area after it's all bolted solid. You cannot, with any great degree of success, make something off the equipment to fit.
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Been there... made 2 brackets to jack on close to where you're working, and the 2nd and third fixture was to keep the front wheels from flopping around when I took the linkages apart and hold it level. I think I was changing seals in the hydraulic pump that time...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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Originally Posted by whtbaron
Been there... made 2 brackets to jack on close to where you're working, and the 2nd and third fixture was to keep the front wheels from flopping around when I took the linkages apart and hold it level. I think I was changing seals in the hydraulic pump that time...
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The basic thingy is tacked to the bolted on pieces of plate. This insures that it will all fit correctly when it's removed, welded, and later installed again. Always build from the machine out. If the piece of tubing up against the tractor looks a bit off kilter...........you're not seeing things
The tractor frame inclines, so it was necessary to match that incline so that the jack would have a straight lift.Next, is the decision as to whether to add another piece for additional lift height.........or just rely on blocks under the jack.
Great for height, but doesn't give me room for my safety restraint for the jack.
Better, but doesn't give me any leeway if the ground isn't level. It's not altogether impossible that the thing might have to be used in the field one day. The piece of pipe is to hold the jack from kicking out. If you've ever had a jack kick out, you know it's a dangerous thing.
Probably where I'll settle. I need to trim the pipe a bit(it's a drop off of the drop rack), but I think this is probably the most flexible setup.The material sizes were run through BeamBoy to see if they're adequate. I'm building to a 4000# lift capacity(with 2x safety factor) I'd be surprised if the front end of this tractor is 4000#, but it's entirely possible. Unballasted, I believe they weigh in the neighborhood of around 9500#, 30% of which, is on the front end. Lifting further back from the front increases the load on the lifting fixture, so it could be a bit heavier at this point.
Reply:About all that's left is to put a piece of plate under the pipe, and tack the pipe to it. 3/8 plate will take the stress off the center wall of the tubing, and transfer it to the shoulders without crushing the wall.
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
About all that's left is to put a piece of plate under the pipe, and tack the pipe to it. 3/8 plate will take the stress off the center wall of the tubing, and transfer it to the shoulders without crushing the wall.
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Originally Posted by whtbaron
I'm unfortunately very familiar with jacks "kicking out"... one put me in an ambulance. I think the weak link in that pile is the dirt. My tire guy likes to drag around a 20"square of 3/8 steel plate that he throws on the ground before he starts pumping the 20 ton jack. It isn't light, but it keeps things straight. Got any lengths of scrap you could tack together to make a solid base that won't sink? I prefer one solid block to anything that will tip, as you will see in the pic above. When the wheels were rolled out, I bolted on the home made 4x4 "jack stand" just for safety. The weight while lifting was borne by 2 20 ton jacks on oak blocks.
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Originally Posted by 12V71
I like cribbing blocks made from alternating wood 4x4s with a layer of plywood between them and lots of good wood screws. Pretty much how I jacked the D10 Cat when I did the tracks last year. Used a good chunk of 1/2" plate on the top. The safest way to jack stuff is to have the jack at the top of the pile. I have built cradles for my 10 ton floor jack to remove MFWD axles from many Red and Green tractors. Jack the wheels off the floor, remove wheels and set the frame on 10 ton jack stands or bolt a splitting cradle to the frame.
Reply:I reckon you should fix the bad engine on the tractor first
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Attached to the frame(luckily it fit as it should), and lifted. You can see why I like something to restrain the jack. There isn't a level piece of ground in the entire shop. And stuff will shift under load.
Pull the jack, and let it sit on stands. I do have steel plates that I use when it's going to be sitting for any time at all where there's the possibility of rain......or the ground is somewhat soft from rain. This ground is so packed, it's like concrete when it's dry. She'll come off the jack stands in the morning when I need to bring hay up from the field. We have to put a bunch of bales out to last them while the front end is being worked on.
I guess it's about time ain't it
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Originally Posted by Woznme
I reckon you should fix the bad engine on the tractor first
Reply:I believe this is the first time the entire front end has been off the ground in near 25yrs. I knew it was getting loose over the years, but I had no idea it had progressed as far as it has, until it started slamming badly.I believe the pin boss is entirely gone, along with any bushings that might have been in there. I'll be interested to see what damage the bolster casting has suffered. It's the only area I'm really concerned about. The axle itself is a plug and chug job.The axle stays are also shot(the bar that comes back from the ends of the axle, and is tied to the underside of the frame under the engine) This will be a PITA. All threaded areas are completely ruined. It's gonna be a matter of cutting that stuff off, making new ones,, and welding them back in the proper position. The casting under the engine is also worn badly.These were all steel castings on these tractors, so thankfully they're repairable.
Reply:You got off easy. When I did the bushings on the 4440 it was because the casting holding the axle was cracked. It also forms part of the steering pump so it was losing trans-hydraulic under pressure. Had to replace the whole casting with a good used one...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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Originally Posted by whtbaron
You got off easy. When I did the bushings on the 4440 it was because the casting holding the axle was cracked. It also forms part of the steering pump so it was losing trans-hydraulic under pressure. Had to replace the whole casting with a good used one...
Reply:Yea... it got bounced around a little too hard on some dry plowing. Tech's I talked to said it usually happens with front end loader machines.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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After a lengthy separation, lasting 4 years, there's been a reconciliation with my oldest parts dealer. The love affair is back on track.They sent me everything I needed to repair the PTO on this tractor, with the understanding that I'd return what was not needed. (It needed some actuating levers and lever pins, and a few friction discs..........ultimately the real problem was a cable that interfered with the operating lever in the cab)All these years, they never credited me for the returns, and the bill kept coming.............which I promptly threw in the trash. Interest was reaching the stratosphere by this year. Late charge + interest..................FINALLY, I get a letter showing the proper credit, and the actual amount owed.Promptly called, and they offered to delete all late charges/interest if I'd pay what's owed. This was after I'd thanked them for reconciling the bill, and told them I'd pay the correct bill. I was thinking I'd still be on the line for the interest, and late fees.
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Put together an attachment for the work dolly. Something to handle the axle with as little hassle as possible.Used the cradles from the pipe stands, which are adjustable. The arms that the pipe stand cradles are attached to, freely slide in/out. And the caddy lifts/lowers/tilts/rolls. Not much this thing can't do. This will be the 3rd set of different attachments for the thing..........MONDO handy. Can't remember how long ago I built it(shrug). I leave all the different attachments on the thing all the time........keeps me from losing track of them.Other than this.........the weekend completely got away from us. I was planning to have the axle off the tractor by now.
Reply:I should have been in the combine wrenching on Sunday too, but the oldest grandson wanted me to take him fishing. He turns 18 next year so the days of hanging with grandpa are probably limited... gotta have priorities. Didn't catch any fish but we did a helluva job of weeding the lake...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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NURSE....................bring me the hot wrench......QUICK!!
Could beat on it all day with the 3/4, or go up to the 1" ..............but that's sorta stupid.
Hate to ruin the paint on the ol' gal(sigh).
Reply:First off........... Didn't take pics, but the large nut, and thread, are completely ruined. I'd imagine the constant slamming dislodged the nut over time, and ruined the threads.
The easy part
I feared the worst, and it came true.........................
Pin partially in bore
Pin fully in bore. The bore's not only severely worn, it's worn to a taper(or the pin is......but it's still worn). I prayed the bolster would be ok.........but it ain't.This is one of those decision trees I guess. Pull the bolster........which partially supports the steering shaft, and build the bore up, and try to return it to spec. Or do it on the tractor, using a cone stone to get it close enough where there's no play. I haven't' even tried to see if the grinder has enough clearance to fit in the space.
Rear of the axle pin boss is extremely wallowed.
Front of the pin boss is fairly decent.....even has a smidge of the bushing left.The axle is no biggy...........just cut the boss out, and replace it with the DOM I have on hand.The bolster is the heart breaker. It was too late in the day to come up with a plan of attack. Take a look at it in the morning, and see what's possible.I Have A Plan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The wear on the rear bore in the bolster is .060This means that a pin has to be 1.625 (1 5/8) to fit an enlarged bore. .060 will have to be taken off the opposite side of the bore to keep the locator pin centered. It won't accept any weld, so it's not steel as I assumed. So we're lookin' at a hand done deal.Two plugs, both 1 5/8 will be made, both with center drilled holes to accept a 1/2" rod.Fit the plug in the back hole when enlarged, insert the rod to carry the center to the front hole, and hand fit the front plug as it sits on the rod.Both plugs centered should carry the measurements front to back, and accept a pin.No.........it can't be line bored. It's a semi blind hole on the rear. Is what it is I guess. Great way to kill a day
Reply:
Originally Posted by farmersammm
I Have A Plan!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!The wear on the rear bore in the bolster is .060This means that a pin has to be 1.625 (1 5/8) to fit an enlarged bore. .060 will have to be taken off the opposite side of the bore to keep the locator pin centered. It won't accept any weld, so it's not steel as I assumed. So we're lookin' at a hand done deal.Two plugs, both 1 5/8 will be made, both with center drilled holes to accept a 1/2" rod.Fit the plug in the back hole when enlarged, insert the rod to carry the center to the front hole, and hand fit the front plug as it sits on the rod.Both plugs centered should carry the measurements front to back, and accept a pin.No.........it can't be line bored. It's a semi blind hole on the rear. Is what it is I guess. Great way to kill a day
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Originally Posted by 12V71
I know you hate unsolicited advice, but I would line bore the whole bolster. Forget the semi blind rear bore and make your own locating pin that screws in from the bottom side of the bore. maybe even drill and tap for a retainer plate at the ends of the bolster bore. You have the stuff to make a boring bar easy. A new pin is going to last longer than we will.
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
Here's the identical bolster out of the tractor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/32505586655...6112%7Ciid%3A1It has the identical bore damage as mine. Look at the pics, and you can see the shoulder inside the bore where the pin has pounded the metal.With the bolster out, I could probably take it to a shop that has a horizontal boring machine, or something like it. I see no way to do this on the tractor. Unless it's a hand fitted grinding job. Which worries me no end.I completed the plugs, and am going to make a cone plug that will center on the undamaged outside part of the front bore, and index off of the retainer pin holes in the rear bore. Then try to fit the sized plug to the rear bore, then do the front off of that plug.I'm really thinking this thing belongs in a shop with the right tooling.
Reply:The axle is no biggy. Just cut out the boss, and replace it. That's about 90%, or more, of the slop.We discussed just doing the axle, and slapping a new pin in there just to get the thing back up and running. Probably outlast me, but........................ya know how that is. It'll start to eat stuff right away. An unworn, new, pin would probably kill about .020 in the slop in the bolster(about 1/3).One thing I'm not clear on............... I have no idea whether the axle stay takes the rearward thrust on these things, or the bolster takes the thrust. There's absolutely no provision for adjusting the stay bar at either the pivot, or where it attaches to the axle. There's no way you can put this together with a perfect fit on all components............so I'm thinking the stay takes the thrust. Although it's a pissy little pivot that holds it in place. This pivot is entirely ruined BTW, so it was taking the thrust with no real success.Last edited by farmersammm; 5 Days Ago at 10:53 PM.
Reply:I'm sure none of that setup was really that much of a precision fit in the first place. Most likely 10 thousandths or so play to allow it to take grease. True up the bore the best you can and size a pin to fit. Grease it often and it will run plenty long enough until some expensive fails on the tractor. It took about 50 years to get to that point, most likely without being greased often.
Reply:I worked for a guy for a lot of years that was a perfectionist. He was always re-inventing the wheel. His wife always told him "Don't worry about the mule going blind, just load the wagon!"
Reply:I'm really thinking this thing belongs in a shop with the right tooling.
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Whilst waiting on our friendly machinist to return from somewhere(can't remember), decided I might use the time to fix the axle stay pivot.
Got a bit of wear on it
I checked the metal, and found it to be the same crap that the bolster's made of. A cast iron hodge podge. And...........I looked around for some thickish mild steel to make a new one, and didn't find anything thick enough for the base of the pivot. I don't want to be buying steel right now..........
So........little Sammy is wandering around the yard, with a frown on his face, and a little bit of a tear starting in one eye.........And I happened to come across a repair I made about near on 24-25yrs ago(yes, I've had this tractor that long).Well??????????? What might that be.........all shiny 'n all????? I believe it's high nickel rod
The repair closer to where the tie rod attaches was from a previous owner I guess. Still holding.So........................ Oh Hell....why not...........The part can't get any broker than it is right now...............
This is the high nickel stuff. Hard to weld with. It's more of a melt, and let it flow sorta thing. I had one Hell of a time getting used to it after almost 1/4 Century!! Padding it up for machining...........
Preheat, prior to welding, was around 400*. After welding, with no pause, it's left to slowly cool under the welding blanket. Didn't get finished building it up 'cause I ran out of rods(these were leftovers from the steering linkage repair....very old). I'll finish it out tomorrow when I get time. I need to pull the bolster off the tractor, and take it to the machinist dood to see if they can actually do the boring.A note on the bolster...................................I'm a bit wary about the setup, if they can machine it. It will need to be indicated off the bolt holes because the bore holes are egged, and no longer in line. And.........if we can figure a way to do it........I might just weld up the bores, and see if they can bring it back to spec. It all depends on what we can indicate on after welding. There is a shoulder that was formed when the pin ate the bolster. I'm thinking this might be the only surface that can be indicated. If so.................I'll have to build up the bore just shy of that shoulder, have it bored, then fill out the rest of the bore, and then they can indicate off of the previous boring job. So, we're possibly talking two setups. If the guy wasn't a friend of K'kins, this could get REAL expensive.
Reply:Alternately, I'm kicking around the idea of going to 1 5/8 as planned, then pressing in a steel backed bronze bushing to fit the pin as sized OEM. The pin doesn't rotate, so it actually doesn't need a bushing, but I'd rather have a sacrificial bit of metal in there to prevent this mess in the future.Being as I've owned this thing for around half its lifetime................I recoil at the suggestion that it hasn't been greased religiously. It just got old, tired, and beat..............sorta like me.
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
Whilst waiting on our friendly machinist to return from somewhere(can't remember), decided I might use the time to fix the axle stay pivot.
Got a bit of wear on it
I checked the metal, and found it to be the same crap that the bolster's made of. A cast iron hodge podge. And...........I looked around for some thickish mild steel to make a new one, and didn't find anything thick enough for the base of the pivot. I don't want to be buying steel right now..........
So........little Sammy is wandering around the yard, with a frown on his face, and a little bit of a tear starting in one eye.........And I happened to come across a repair I made about near on 24-25yrs ago(yes, I've had this tractor that long).Well??????????? What might that be.........all shiny 'n all????? I believe it's high nickel rod
The repair closer to where the tie rod attaches was from a previous owner I guess. Still holding.So........................ Oh Hell....why not...........The part can't get any broker than it is right now...............
This is the high nickel stuff. Hard to weld with. It's more of a melt, and let it flow sorta thing. I had one Hell of a time getting used to it after almost 1/4 Century!! Padding it up for machining...........
Preheat, prior to welding, was around 400*. After welding, with no pause, it's left to slowly cool under the welding blanket. Didn't get finished building it up 'cause I ran out of rods(these were leftovers from the steering linkage repair....very old). I'll finish it out tomorrow when I get time. I need to pull the bolster off the tractor, and take it to the machinist dood to see if they can actually do the boring.A note on the bolster...................................I'm a bit wary about the setup, if they can machine it. It will need to be indicated off the bolt holes because the bore holes are egged, and no longer in line. And.........if we can figure a way to do it........I might just weld up the bores, and see if they can bring it back to spec. It all depends on what we can indicate on after welding. There is a shoulder that was formed when the pin ate the bolster. I'm thinking this might be the only surface that can be indicated. If so.................I'll have to build up the bore just shy of that shoulder, have it bored, then fill out the rest of the bore, and then they can indicate off of the previous boring job. So, we're possibly talking two setups. If the guy wasn't a friend of K'kins, this could get REAL expensive.
Reply:The farmer in me says buy a 1 5/8" drill bit with a 1/2" shank, and weld it to a length of 1/2" rod (yea, that part is gonna make you want to cry). Drill it from front to back with the biggest, slowest, ugliest 1/2 drill you can find. Ream the holes out with the die grinder until you can slide a thin oil-lite style bushing in there... you know, steel on the outside, thin cross thatched brass on the inside to hold lube. Build up the axle for your 1 5/8 like you planned, put it all back together in an hour and you're golden...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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Originally Posted by 12V71
I wouldn't worry too much about the bolster as long as both bores line up. a few thou any direction shouldn't be a problem as long as it's true front to rear. (meaning square to the centerline of the tractor)
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Originally Posted by whtbaron
The steering brakes work, right?
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
The steering brakes work, right?
Reply:Totally messed me up when I went 4 wd... I still have to stop myself from hammering on that brake pedal on a hard corner.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
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Originally Posted by whtbaron
the farmer in me says buy a 1 5/8" drill bit with a 1/2" shank, and weld it to a length of 1/2" rod (yea, that part is gonna make you want to cry). Drill it from front to back with the biggest, slowest, ugliest 1/2 drill you can find. Ream the holes out with the die grinder until you can slide a thin oil-lite style bushing in there... You know, steel on the outside, thin cross thatched brass on the inside to hold lube. Build up the axle for your 1 5/8 like you planned, put it all back together in an hour and you're golden...
Reply:lol.... cringe, but it would work...You really don't want to know why I have a 25/32" drill bit coming from Amazon...Last edited by whtbaron; 2 Days Ago at 10:16 AM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:One Of The ReasonstheMarket Collapsed Today
$207 FOR STINKIN' RODS. And the idiots on The Street are hoping that inflation is rolling over.............my azz!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:$3.13 a F'n Rod!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by farmersammm
$3.13 a F'n Rod!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:They hoping you do not see the price per rod. Let next fool buy and get p#$ f#$.Dave
Originally Posted by farmersammm
One Of The ReasonstheMarket Collapsed Today
$207 FOR STINKIN' RODS. And the idiots on The Street are hoping that inflation is rolling over.............my azz!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:I guess that is Nickel rod for cast iron welding. I did buy Nickel rod buy it was aways high cost. Most time I do brazing and save money and works better. Most cast iron is class 25 and brazing rod works well.Dave
Originally Posted by farmersammm
One Of The ReasonstheMarket Collapsed Today
$207 FOR STINKIN' RODS. And the idiots on The Street are hoping that inflation is rolling over.............my azz!!!!!!!!!!
Reply:
Originally Posted by smithdoor
I guess that is Nickel rod for cast iron welding. I did buy Nickel rod buy it was aways high cost. Most time I do brazing and save money and works better. Most cast iron is class 25 and brazing rod works well.Dave
Reply:That damn part is still sitting in the vise, under a blanket, cooling at this hour
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发表于 2022-9-16 15:52:20