Evolution 14” Blade Mistake?

admin

Recently while at the local Hardware store/Tool Center, I saw a 14” Milwaukee chop saw for a good price, so my impulses kicked in, and I brought it home.   I like it, except I wanted to put a steel cutting carbide blade on it.   It came with a 14” abrasive cutting wheel.   Without even looking at the details, I went to Amazon.Com and got a 14” Evolution blade for it.   When delivered, I noticed the package said 1600 rpm maximum.   I looked at the Milwaukee saw, and the pamplet that came with it said it runs at 3900 rpms!To be safe, I’m thinking the 3900 rpm saw might be too much for that blade, so I put the abrasive blade back on it.    Anyone had any experience with a carbide tipped blade on a saw with this many rpms?   If its not safe, I’m not gonna do it, so thus my question.   I threw the packaging for the blade in the trash when I opened it, and the trash collectors took it away before I realized my mistake, so I can’t return it for a refund.Any recommendations for a steel blade that would work for this saw?
Reply:Please post a video if you do it
Reply:The short answer is no but most importantly  do NOT put the carbide tip blade on your abrasive chop saw.:
Reply:Do not go over on the label RPM.Dave

Originally Posted by metalmelter2021

Recently while at the local Hardware store/Tool Center, I saw a 14” Milwaukee chop saw for a good price, so my impulses kicked in, and I brought it home.   I like it, except I wanted to put a steel cutting carbide blade on it.   It came with a 14” abrasive cutting wheel.   Without even looking at the details, I went to Amazon.Com and got a 14” Evolution blade for it.   When delivered, I noticed the package said 1600 rpm maximum.   I looked at the Milwaukee saw, and the pamplet that came with it said it runs at 3900 rpms!To be safe, I’m thinking the 3900 rpm saw might be too much for that blade, so I put the abrasive blade back on it.    Anyone had any experience with a carbide tipped blade on a saw with this many rpms?   If its not safe, I’m not gonna do it, so thus my question.   I threw the packaging for the blade in the trash when I opened it, and the trash collectors took it away before I realized my mistake, so I can’t return it for a refund.Any recommendations for a steel blade that would work for this saw?
Reply:Well now you can go trade that carbide for a pile of abrasive disks OR you can sell your Milwaukee and buy the right saw for that blade. PS: there are way better saws (and blades) than the Evolution.Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunLincoln AC/DC 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc Gouging CAC-AEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand T-30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:

Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds

Well now you can go trade that carbide for a pile of abrasive disks OR you can sell your Milwaukee and buy the right saw for that blade. PS: there are way better saws (and blades) than the Evolution.
Reply:Swapping in a carbide low-RPM blade in an abrasive saw is the #1 most common mistake as seen on Amazon reviews from people who do that very thing.  They always state "cut great for 3 cuts, then went to hell".  Yup, it's not meant for ~4,000 RPMs, so all the teeth are dulled.

  There are carbide blades that can survive abrasive-saw-RPMs.  Unfortunately they cost 3x what the abrasive saw costs.

   Return both and get an Evolution metal chop saw. Done.

1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig!



Reply:If you look at the speeds and feeds recommended for carbide milling and lathe tools, you'll see that even carbide dry cut saws exceed what's recommended for carbide. 1,400RPM is normal for a dry cut saw. Imagine turning a piece of 14" dia. steel in the lathe at 1,400RPM with a carbide tool. It's going to get hot and spark out. As far as I can tell, the only reason carbide blades work in those dry cut saws is that they only spend a small amount of time actually in the cut. \\For a few years now, I've thought about building a chop saw that runs at a few hundred RPM and uses a carbide blade and some sort of controlled feed system (controlled leak down on an air or hydraulic cylinder plus an adjustable weight system? Kinda like a horizontal bandsaw.). Just set the stock up, cut the saw on, and let it work. Probably wouldn't need a whole lot of HP if it's geared (belted) down to 300RPM.Cold cut saws run at under 100RPM, but they're running fine tooth HSS blades.I think I could build something to hold +/- 1/32" accuracy fairly easily with just regular pillow block bearings as spindle bearings. I have some 1" ID cast iron Timken pillow blocks that'd probably work well. Figured I'd have a 1" shaft that's stepped down to 7/8" or 5/8" whatever the blade hub requires, then a pulley on the other end. I have a 1 or 2 HP DC motor that'd work well for it. Just need to get a big DC power supply.