Stick welding in ac tig more?

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I've got a vulcan 200 protig. It struggles with 6010, snuffing out. Up the amps to cover the snuffing and it's very hard to control undercutting.  I dont have any 6011 to try,I  read that might work a bit better. My question is could I put the machine in ac tig mode and use the 6010 with ac? Set the amps. Put a brick on the pedal,  and weld? Wouldn't the ac balance adj be the same as a dig adjustment?  7018. 6013 work well. 6010 is rough.  Is this possible and plausible? Thanks ps when I was as kid 40 years ago, I used 7014 with a lincoln tombstone and remember doing well with it. Seems here 7014 is frowned on. I can get all the 1/8 7018 I want at my job. 3/32 I have to get on the outside. Also, I dont have an oven.
Reply:6010 won't run in AC mode, that's why 6011 was invented. 6011 will definitely work better. I don't think you can do what you are suggesting and the AC balance will most likely not work the same as dig. Dig has to do with the amps increasing when the arc length is shortened. AC balance has to do with the percent of the time the AC wave form is in electrode negative vs electrode positive. If you are OK using 6010 or 6011, why not use some 7014?  People get too worked up in my opinion about the need for 7018 for every stinking weld beadMiller Multimatic 255
Reply:And even then, TIG mode works with much reduced voltages, usually in the range of 13-18V, somewhere there abouts depending on the machine.  That's the exact opposite of what you need with a E6010 rod.  You need something like 24-30V to run E6010.   That's why you were getting bad undercut when you forced it;  you increased the amps which also increased the voltage necessary to keep it lit, but by that time, it was just running way too much amps to keep a steady arc.  Try it on AC, no harm in that.   Doubt it will help, but then again, I've never tried it.

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Reply:

Originally Posted by Louie1961

6010 won't run in AC mode, that's why 6011 was invented. 6011 will definitely work better. I don't think you can do what you are suggesting and the AC balance will most likely not work the same as dig. Dig has to do with the amps increasing when the arc length is shortened. AC balance has to do with the percent of the time the AC wave form is in electrode negative vs electrode positive. If you are OK using 6010 or 6011, why not use some 7014?  People get too worked up in my opinion about the need for 7018 for every stinking weld bead
Reply:

Originally Posted by Louie1961

6010 won't run in AC mode, that's why 6011 was invented. 6011 will definitely work better. I don't think you can do what you are suggesting and the AC balance will most likely not work the same as dig. Dig has to do with the amps increasing when the arc length is shortened. AC balance has to do with the percent of the time the AC wave form is in electrode negative vs electrode positive. If you are OK using 6010 or 6011, why not use some 7014?  People get too worked up in my opinion about the need for 7018 for every stinking weld bead
Reply:not all rod brands the same even6011 or 6013 some brands put extra stuff in flux to be able to pull a longer arc (6010 same some brands got more arc stabilizers in flux).obviously on low ocv open circuit voltage machine pulling a stable 1/2" long arc is not good even with tig thats bad if 3/16" long arc is stable you want arc to go outor metal more likely burned or oxidized. some rod brands you can pull a long arc where other brands arc sputters and goes out easy.dab dab welding with 3/32 6013 rod welding 16ga at 75 amps many weld 1/2 second break arc wait, weld 1/2 sec break arc wait, etc... Youtube got many videos welding.060 or .040 thick tubing stick welding.... goes by different names pulse welding, dab dab etc........ anyway be annoying if arc stable 1/2" or more long arc, youwould want arc to go out 1.5 to 2 rod dia (1/8 to 1/4" arc goes out)..... you buy rod better made for your machine