16 gauge tubing with silicon bronze

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Looking for some  pointers. Trying to weld up a set of headers for my drag car with silicone bronze. Tig welding 16 gauge no matter what setting I seem to start out blowing a hole attempting to tac the two pieces. I am using a 165 amp Chicago electric tig/stick Machine. Any one have any suggested settings?  I was able to do the flanges with only small problems. I have heard that these machine always run a little hot. 1/16 bronze filler rod.  Any tips to shorten the learning curve?
Reply:Is this the one you are using

I used to have that.  I started TIG on it many, many years ago.

  I started sets of headers with it, but I ended up finishing them with an Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC.Anyhow, even without a footpedal, you should be able to TIG 16ga headers based on the machine capability.  It goes down to 10A, and even if those 10A were really 20A, that's still low enough to weld 16ga.Questions:What are you actually setting the amps to?  I know you said "no matter what setting", but give us something to work with.Are the two pieces you are trying to tack straight sections that actually measure 0.062", or are you trying to tack mandrel bent sections?  Those are much thinner, depending on the bend radius used to bend them.Oh, and I would say forget brazing them with silicon bronze.  Headers are generally welded with the appropriate steel rods.

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Reply:

Originally Posted by Oscar

Is this the one you are using

I used to have that.  I started TIG on it many, many years ago.

  I started sets of headers with it, but I ended up finishing them with an Eastwood TIG 200 AC/DC.Anyhow, even without a footpedal, you should be able to TIG 16ga headers based on the machine capability.  It goes down to 10A, and even if those 10A were really 20A, that's still low enough to weld 16ga.Questions:What are you actually setting the amps to?  I know you said "no matter what setting", but give us something to work with.Are the two pieces you are trying to tack straight sections that actually measure 0.062", or are you trying to tack mandrel bent sections?  Those are much thinner, depending on the bend radius used to bend them.Oh, and I would say forget brazing them with silicon bronze.  Headers are generally welded with the appropriate steel rods.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Ramzee

Looking for some  pointers. Trying to weld up a set of headers for my drag car with silicone bronze. Tig welding 16 gauge no matter what setting I seem to start out blowing a hole attempting to tac the two pieces. I am using a 165 amp Chicago electric tig/stick Machine. Any one have any suggested settings?  I was able to do the flanges with only small problems. I have heard that these machine always run a little hot. 1/16 bronze filler rod.  Any tips to shorten the learning curve?
Reply:Oops Oscar beat me to it.Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:For appearance on headers, I would use SSMiller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221  True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:When I do welding  with silicone bronze I would use a torch.Simple and fast.Dave

Originally Posted by Ramzee

Looking for some  pointers. Trying to weld up a set of headers for my drag car with silicone bronze. Tig welding 16 gauge no matter what setting I seem to start out blowing a hole attempting to tac the two pieces. I am using a 165 amp Chicago electric tig/stick Machine. Any one have any suggested settings?  I was able to do the flanges with only small problems. I have heard that these machine always run a little hot. 1/16 bronze filler rod.  Any tips to shorten the learning curve?
Reply:Silicon bronze can cause the joints to crack if you melt the base metal into the pool. You should use standard ER70S and weld them. Headers I do not believe are a silicon bronze job.