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This Lincoln AC/DC runs great, but not liking the ground clam that came with it. It doesnt seem ground well. Have cleaned the area well and every now an then it will pop and loose ground. Is there a better ground clamp I cant use?Retired Old GuyHobart 210Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 Tombstone Evolution 14 Saw
Reply:I prefer these.https://www.amazon.com/Lenco-MIG-300.../dp/B002JGW0QA
Reply:You can change the clamp if you don't like it. They are found on line at various suppliers, local weld supply houses, harbor freight. Just some examples and you can always check the cable connection at the clamp you have.
Reply:
Originally Posted by BillE.Dee
You can change the clamp if you don't like it. They are found on line at various suppliers, local weld supply houses, harbor freight. Just some examples and you can always check the cable connection at the clamp you have.
Reply:Most of my welders I used a Visegrip I just weld a 1/2 bolt to jaw and place the welding lead on.Note You do want to put a short jumper to both jaws or will burn the spring up.Dave
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
This Lincoln AC/DC runs great, but not liking the ground clam that came with it. It doesnt seem ground well. Have cleaned the area well and every now an then it will pop and loose ground. Is there a better ground clamp I cant use?
Reply:I think Oscar and others liked the quality of the ones they bought from Harbor Freight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:Most ground clamps I try the employees would just set clamp on top of work.For some reason they use the C-type Visegrip as a ground. For me one less thing they would loss and work great for a ground too.The ground clamp I use today was manufactured as a ground clamp but company that made the ground is out of business. It is auto adjustment and it double as a clamp too.Dave
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I think Oscar and others liked the quality of the ones they bought from Harbor Freight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Didn’t occur to me it may be at the cable. Will have to check that thanks
Reply:You didn't show us what you have now, but there are a couple common failure points. The ones I have changed have usually got hot enough (some dumbie didn't grind the spot clean enough for a good ground, or he was cutting metal at 300 amps) to weaken the spring or the contact point at the cable got burned from coming loose. When looking for new ones, I look for the 400 amp ones and you generally get better quality than the cheapie ones. I have one similar to this Tweco on the DialArc and it works well, but it is a very tight spring to compress...
The advantage is that the spring is further away from the work and stays away from the heat more. "Should" last longer. My Sears and Forney buzz boxes both have the cheaper style clamp and they seem to work well until you mess them up. I drilled a hole in the back of one for a 300 amp magnet and that comes in very handy for things you just can't get a clamp on. I just have it on finger tight so I can remove it quickly if it does get in the road.
For light duty work, any of the above should work as long as it's properly attached to the cable and the grounding location is clean, but quality will always last longer.Last edited by whtbaron; 04-01-2022 at 09:19 PM.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
This Lincoln AC/DC runs great, but not liking the ground clam that came with it. It doesn’t seem ground well. Have cleaned the area well and every now an then it will pop and loose ground. Is there a better ground clamp I can’t use?
Reply:I like using this switchable magnetic ground from Mag Tools for fabricating with MIG
and like whtbaron any time I have a poor ground connection it is because I didnt grind a shiny spot. AND a good high amperage clamp is always a good bet.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkLast edited by Lis2323; 04-01-2022 at 09:28 PM.:
Reply:Yea... I like that too. My cheapie round one has been dropped more than once and is starting to crack apart. I might look for one like that next time.... or buy another cheapy on sale at P/A for $4.The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:I use a 6" C-clamp. Drill a hole in the middle of long side of the clamp and bolt the ground lead to the clamp. Never have a problem with arcing where the clamp is attached to the part being welded. Spring clamps always have issues for good contact. The C-clamp only requires mild tightening of the clamp. Price is right too, as all you have to do is sacrifice one of your C-clamps.ChrisAuction Addict
Reply:
Originally Posted by milomilo
I use a 6" C-clamp. Drill a hole in the middle of long side of the clamp and bolt the ground lead to the clamp. Never have a problem with arcing where the clamp is attached to the part being welded. Spring clamps always have issues for good contact. The C-clamp only requires mild tightening of the clamp. Price is right too, as all you have to do is sacrifice one of your C-clamps.
Reply:
Originally Posted by whtbaron
This discussion is making me think how handy it would be to have multiple clamping systems at your finger tips when you need them for different circumstances. I'm thinking a quick disconnect at the end of the cable instead of a clamp. Then you could have a magnet, a ground clamp, Dave's vice grips or your C clamp on short whips you could plug in depending on what you wanted to use.
Reply:Wll check the cable first, maybe file the faces of the clamp clean too, but the C-clamp does sound like it would workRetired Old GuyHobart 210Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 Tombstone Evolution 14 Saw
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
I think Oscar and others liked the quality of the ones they bought from Harbor Freight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:They work great 👍 Dave
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Wll check the cable first, maybe file the faces of the clamp clean too, but the C-clamp does sound like it would work
Reply:
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Wll check the cable first, maybe file the faces of the clamp clean too, but the C-clamp does sound like it would work
Reply:I have 7 or 8 ground clamps, 4 of them are on 10' leads. But this 600amp Lenco is my go to. It digs in good and also doubles as a clamp when needed.Not me in the pic.
Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunModified Lincoln 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc GougingEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand Type 30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:It good clamp I had one in shop and my welders would just lay on top work. I can not tell you why but they did. It was great grounding clamp. I used the correct way and made great ground. The C type Visegrip solve two problems made great grounding clamp and the Visegrip did not disappear. Fleet like putting and all Visegrips on a cord or chain. Dave Like the flowers on the paper towels
Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds
I have 7 or 8 ground clamps, 4 of them are on 10' leads. But this 600amp Lenco is my go to. It digs in good and also doubles as a clamp when needed.Not me in the pic.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds
I have 7 or 8 ground clamps, 4 of them are on 10' leads. But this 600amp Lenco is my go to. It digs in good and also doubles as a clamp when needed.Not me in the pic.
Reply:Hope this was the problem. Checked the cable at the ground clamp. You could see where it had arced between the nut and the cable end it was loose too. A little dissembling an cleaning reassemble test run works like it should.
Retired Old GuyHobart 210Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 Tombstone Evolution 14 Saw
Reply:
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Hope this was the problem. Checked the cable at the ground clamp. You could see where it had arced between the nut and the cable end it was loose too. A little dissembling an cleaning reassemble test run works like it should.
Reply:
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Hope this was the problem. Checked the cable at the ground clamp. You could see where it had arced between the nut and the cable end it was loose too. A little dissembling an cleaning reassemble test run works like it should.
Looks great. It well work for a long time .The copper jaws will wear out but just buy new one.. FYI my cable ends I solder in it last far longer than crimping and for replacement just de-solder.Dave
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Hope this was the problem. Checked the cable at the ground clamp. You could see where it had arced between the nut and the cable end it was loose too. A little dissembling an cleaning reassemble test run works like it should.Attachment 1738137
Reply:I always keep a nice adjustable wrench set (6" and 10") with my welder for gas connections. -Make sure it's a decent set, the softer metals will thank you and you'll curse yourself if you ever round one off. I've had good luck with crescent brand adjustable these days, but of course they still are not as nice as vintage made in USA.I also use it to check my ground cable connections about every week if I'm using the machine all the time, or whenever I use it if it goes a long period of time without use.The heat cycling, dissimilar metals, and usually lower tension (double nut setups are usually excluded) all lead to the connection inevitably loosening over time.Last edited by SlowBlues; 04-03-2022 at 11:00 AM.
Reply:So what your saying is he really needs a new impact wrench and socket set to keep the nut tight...The harder you fall, the higher you bounce...250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:
Originally Posted by SlowBlues
I always keep a nice adjustable wrench set (6" and 10") with my welder for gas connections. -Make sure it's a decent set, the softer metals will thank you and you'll curse yourself if you ever round one off. I've had good luck with crescent brand adjustable these days, but of course they still are not as nice as vintage made in USA.I also use it to check my ground cable connections about every week if I'm using the machine all the time, or whenever I use it if it goes a long period of time without use.The heat cycling, dissimilar metals, and usually lower tension (double nut setups are usually excluded) all lead to the connection inevitably loosening over time.
Reply:I use these buggers on the mig/plasma/stickThey are very convenientOn the tig machine I use the stock clamp since magnets dont stick to aluminum
. Usually. PS,Lillian says hello
Miller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:Wellgot it all cleaned and reassembled slid some shrink wrap the handle to help support the cable
Retired Old GuyHobart 210Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 Tombstone Evolution 14 Saw
Reply:
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Wellgot it all cleaned and reassembled slid some shrink wrap the handle to help support the cable
Reply:
Originally Posted by John T
I use these buggers on the mig/plasma/stickThey are very convenientOn the tig machine I use the stock clamp since magnets don’t stick to aluminum …. Usually. PS,Lillian says hello
Reply:
Originally Posted by John T
I use these buggers on the mig/plasma/stickThey are very convenientOn the tig machine I use the stock clamp since magnets don’t stick to aluminum …. Usually. PS,Lillian says hello
Reply:That was 43 years ago. Who knows what she looks like todayMiller 211Hypertherm PM 451961 Lincoln Idealarc 250HTP 221 True Wisdom only comes from Pain.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Kelvin
I like the copper contacts on that clamp.After I filed/sanded the nuts and the lug to clean them up and remove any burrs from arcing, I think I might coat them with some grease (or better yet, copper-based anti-seize) before cranking the nuts down good. This might delay you having to disassemble and clean them up the next time.
Reply:
Originally Posted by John T
That was 43 years ago. Who knows what she looks like today
Reply:
Originally Posted by CAVEMANN
The braided copper inside the clamp came apart and frayed badly on mine & I wasn't close to any place that sold ground clamps, I had an old set of booster cables that were junk so I robbed three trands of the fine copper wire in themand braided them together and bolted it on both sides & it worked really well, I think the wires wer #6 or 8, cheapie cables. The clamp seems to stay cooler too.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Careful with cheap jumper cables. I almost bought a set of #4 cables a few months ago. Nice clamps. Really nice insulation... BUT it turns out they had copper plated ALUMINUM wire. Copper has about 60% of the conductivity of copper (according to a quick Google search)So they'd conduct like something around an 8 gauge copper cable. I was just buying the jumper cables for the wire - I was going to make an extension for the ground on my MIG and my plasma cutter.Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
Reply:I know the topic is ground clamps but this is what I do with jumper cables to keep them from tangling ....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:Should be a good lesson here,,,, guy can speculate, can type pages, can spend money, can spend others money or he can tighten a loose nut.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:That is a gread cable idea.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:After I saw where this thread was turning I had to start a jumper cable thread. lolhttps://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...04#post8856904Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunModified Lincoln 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc GougingEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand Type 30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:
Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds
After I saw where this thread was turning I had to start a jumper cable thread. lolhttps://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...04#post8856904
Reply:The magnetic ones look cool, but I weld aluminum from time to time. cant load a picture but I just crimp a 1/2" copper lug to the cable and bolt it to Vise grip.We've done so much, for so long, with so little. Were now qualified to do anything with nothing !
Reply:
Originally Posted by welding1
The magnetic ones look cool, but I weld aluminum from time to time. cant load a picture but I just crimp a 1/2" copper lug to the cable and bolt it to Vise grip.
Reply:
Originally Posted by 52 Ford
Having quick couplers on your leads so you can swap out your ground clamp is nice. Run a magnet when you're sticking steel and a clamp when you're dealing with aluminum or nonmagnetic stainless.Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds
After I saw where this thread was turning I had to start a jumper cable thread. lolhttps://weldingweb.com/vbb/threads/7...04#post8856904
Reply:About jumper cables, welders and trains; there was a weldor here that said someone in Montana I think, needed his train jump started with a welder. The dude had a big engine drive MILLER but didn't want to chance frying a rectumfier on his machine. Don't blame him.However SA200's were used to jump start other SA's. There's videos in the archives. I think an SA could jumpstart a train if the batteries weren't shot out.
Reply:I've used many of the work clamps from Harbor Freight and never had an issue. I have seen one or two that the jaws didn't line up well so I always check that when I pull them off the rack. Go ahead guys...get all upset now over proper terminology.
Check out my bench vise website: http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT |
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:55