7018 vertical up

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Hi all,I recently got a Titanium 225 stick welder. I’m using 3/32 7018 on 3/16 plate. So far I’m just practicing. I’m getting pretty comfortable doing horizontal welds. For horizontal welds I have one question:1) How do I avoid porosity when stopping the weld? Most of the time I get porosity when stoppingFor vertical:2) How do I avoid undercut when stopping the weld? If I run a stringer bead up the middle of a 6” plate, and stop 1” before the end, 100% of the time I have undercut above the top of the pool.Pic of weld with undercut on the top where I stopped. 6” 3/16 plate with 3/32 7018 electrode

Last edited by pontoon; 04-02-2022 at 09:24 PM.
Reply:Are you whipping up with a dab to stop?Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunModified Lincoln 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc GougingEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand Type 30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:

Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds

Are you whipping up with a dab to stop?
Reply:Flick up and dip the puddle when you stop. You just don't stop. Try a few things and see.Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunModified Lincoln 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc GougingEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand Type 30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:There are several things that will cause that porosity. Starts and stops are more critical with the lo-hy rods, as any lack of slag coverage will result in porosity. Easy to prevent it at the start by starting 3/4" or so forward, and then back up into the start. The end, however... I don't know what they teach in the US, or what's acceptable, but here in Japan, we'll dab it a few more times once the arc is terminated. For starters, it looks like you need to hold it there a bit longer to let the crater/undercut fill. If you're letting the rod burn back, and the arc length increases, it'll also produce undercut. Don't just terminate the arc when you get to the top and stop upward travel. Once I terminate the arc, I'll start it again within about a second or so, and maybe even a second and third time. This is done before the weld pool solidifies. These last couple of blasts aren't really to add reinforcement (though it does), but to ensure there is adequate shielding of the weld as it solidifies, and boil out anything that started a "worm hole." It has the effect of a "downslope" at the end of a TIG weld, to let the crater fill while keeping shielding gas on it.The other thing that causes end porosity with lo-hy rods is moisture in the flux... You know all those videos on the Tube where people show you that you can use 7018 when it's soaking wet, or has been sitting outside as long as you're not using it for code work? Yea... Well, moisture in the flux causes porosity in the weld, especially at the ends. Whenever I weld on stuff with non-dried 7016, I short the rod for a few seconds to heat it up. Sometimes you can see the steam come off the rod, which helps to dry it a little. Again, not for code work...but better than doing nothing to the rods when practicing or "farm work."Here is a very good video from Japan using 7016 vertical up. Notice on the second and third pass at the top how he dabs the rod to fill and prevent a crater and porosity. The reason he makes a mark to stop in the middle for a start/stop point is that bend strips aren't cut from the center of a coupon here. The "back bead" in Japanese is called "ura nami." this literally translates to "back wave," so you'll see that in the English captions if you turn them on. Here, it's acceptable to start the arc outside of the groove, which he does at the beginning.  Panasonic YC-300BP2Panasonic YC-200BL3Suzukid Arcway 180Lincoln Idealarc R3R-400Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Everlast Power i-MIG 230iEverlast PowerArc 300ST...and other assorted garbage
Reply:

Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds

Flick up and dip the puddle when you stop. You just don't stop. Try a few things and see.
Reply:When you get to the end of your weld. Don't pull straight out, Pull up (and vertical) as you lengthen your arc and then tap it back in the puddle 1 or 2 or 3 times. What ever your technique takes. If your rod is sticking a lot your either to cold or your not maintaining proper arc length.Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunModified Lincoln 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc GougingEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand Type 30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:Can see the root stringer under it.

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Reply:Try  a lighter  shade lens. You want to dab while the rod and weld is still red.
Reply:The way I learned overhead welding  was the Lincoln book on welding.  It give good instructions for vertical up too.Dave

Originally Posted by pontoon

Hi all,I recently got a Titanium 225 stick welder. I’m using 3/32 7018 on 3/16 plate. So far I’m just practicing. I’m getting pretty comfortable doing horizontal welds. For horizontal welds I have one question:1) How do I avoid porosity when stopping the weld? Most of the time I get porosity when stoppingFor vertical:2) How do I avoid undercut when stopping the weld? If I run a stringer bead up the middle of a 6” plate, and stop 1” before the end, 100% of the time I have undercut above the top of the pool.Pic of weld with undercut on the top where I stopped. 6” 3/16 plate with 3/32 7018 electrode


Reply:

Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds

When you get to the end of your weld. Don't pull straight out, Pull up (and vertical) as you lengthen your arc and then tap it back in the puddle 1 or 2 or 3 times. What ever your technique takes. If your rod is sticking a lot your either to cold or your not maintaining proper arc length.
Reply:

Originally Posted by pontoon

Thanks. And when I lift the rod up, should I let the arc go out before I put it back down? Or should I let it long arc and then set it back down?
Reply:Another tip with 7018 is to hold a chunk of metal in your off hand and use it to break the glassy slag over the end of a partly used rod before trying to strike an arc with it. That stuff is pretty tough on 7018 especially, and breaking it off in midair before you start striking an arc is the way to go.
Reply:I agree 👍 Dave

Originally Posted by Freebirdwelds

Never let an arc go out unless your finished welding.


Reply:To get rid of the fingernail on 7018, I scratch it on either a used, small diameter grinding wheel or just a used angle grinder disk, preferably coarse grit.  The worn out grinding wheel I keep on the workbench, and slip the worn angle grinder disk in my back pocket.
Reply:Never let an arc go out unless your finished welding.