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Hi fellas.I finally saved enough money to buy a used Lincoln 180C welder. The problem is my outlet is about 40 feet from where I want to do my welding projects. Can someone tell me what size extension cord I need and how long I can get away with? I would like 50 foot. But I could get away with 40 foot. Or is that too long to use with my 180c? I'm just going to be welding on a 57 chevy and a trailer build. Thank you in advance.
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Last edited by grumpy RN; 04-11-2022 at 07:00 PM.
Reply:https://www.amazon.com/RVMATE-Welder.../dp/B08HGQPFWJ
Reply:Does that length give adequate reach moving around the project or does just reach the location? I would suggest 50 to 75 100 feet, unless you can move everything to the welder. Is your machine dual voltage?
Reply:No it is jut 208/240 I believe.
Reply:Numbers, facts, it's about how far electrons travel to get to you. Distance from transformer, conductor size & welder load. A lot goes into the formula.An optimist is usually wrong, and when the unexpected happens is unprepared. A pessimist is usually right, when wrong, is delighted, and well prepared.
Reply:What size plug are you using?How time are welding? (Most only weld 2 minutes out of 10)Dave
Originally Posted by grumpy RN
Hi fellas.I finally saved enough money to buy a used Lincoln 180C welder. The problem is my outlet is about 40 feet from where I want to do my welding projects. Can someone tell me what size extension cord I need and how long I can get away with? I would like 50 foot. But I could get away with 40 foot. Or is that too long to use with my 180c? I'm just going to be welding on a 57 chevy and a trailer build. Thank you in advance.
Reply:50 amp plug in wall. I will only do short welds. Probably 1 inch at a time.
Reply:I have run welders that was 50 amp plug on a 12 gauge 120 volt cord .I made adaptor for both ends. It 500 feet of cord this was for few jobs back 1970's. It is the best to use 6 or 8 gauge cord but you may not have cash for cord.Most mig welders can run for most work on 30amp dryer plug and a 10 gauge cord will work.Dave
Originally Posted by grumpy RN
50 amp plug in wall. I will only do short welds. Probably 1 inch at a time.
Reply:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KC78981M&psc=1Lincoln 330MPXLincoln Power Mig 256Lincoln LN-25X Wire FeederMagnum PRO 250LX GT Spool GunModified Lincoln 225¼ Ton of Torches OFC-A OFG-AAir Carbon Arc GougingEverlast 62i Plasma CutterIngersoll Rand Type 30 14hpInstagram: #Freebird Welds
Reply:Ready made cords comer number 8. If you think 40 will work get 50, it wont make any difference. There is a lot of personal preference with this and some bias creeps in,,, but,, That machine and circuit is adequate, legal and safe with 50 ft of 12 cord. I happen to use 10 for my 240 cords, its a bit more robust for connections, eliminates Vdrop especially with a little machine and works with machines a class heavier. The internet has struck again, that is about the first ready made 6 I have seen, usually number 8. That is a monster, get something easy to handle. It wont help this or most other cord ready machines and is made for 250+ class migs screaming wide open trying to burn them up running spray, this is not something common to home garages. I dont do it, use a 10 on my 250, only using short circuit and C25.Last edited by Sberry; 04-12-2022 at 07:40 AM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:BTW, that little mig is a very good machine. The people that set it up were real welders, its spot on 030 solid. They make bigger machines, they make more features but they dome make much better.Last edited by Sberry; 04-12-2022 at 07:47 AM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:This photo makes me chuckle. Looks like they photo shopped a 6-50 receptacle on a chimney.
Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Like cotton gloves too.It great place to on roof and wires in a fireplace should be OK till cold and you need a fire in home.Dave
Originally Posted by Broccoli1
This photo makes me chuckle. Looks like they photo shopped a 6-50 receptacle on a chimney.
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Originally Posted by smithdoor
Like cotton gloves too.It great place to on roof and wires in a fireplace should be OK till cold and you need a fire in home.Dave
Reply:My wife is same way .In the garage I use run conduit. In home inside the walls under the floor and attic in July so mush fun. Dave PS Thank God for WiFi
Originally Posted by Willie B
100% of my electrician customers believe I can teleport power to somewhere utterly invisible. I explain I can make it invisible, it requires replacing clapboards, or patching plaster. Most often I deal with historic buildings. The wealthy transplants to VT want their house to look like no electrician has ever been there. In the photoshopped photo; no welder! Joe-Bob is welding without power, or a welder. Nickola Tesla couldn't do that.
Reply:Have about 50’ of insulated 8 gauge just need to put the correct ends on. It’s heavyRetired Old GuyHobart 210Lincoln AC/DC 225/125 Tombstone Evolution 14 Saw
Reply:
Originally Posted by NotaVegetarian
Have about 50’ of insulated 8 gauge just need to put the correct ends on. It’s heavy
Reply:I use SO type 600 volt today it is SO??.But will last a life time.Dave
Originally Posted by Broccoli1
What is insulated 8g cord?
Reply:I ordered the 6awg cord from amazon, 25 foot. Then a relative gave me two, 12 foot marine 50 amp cords. But they need outlets at both ends which I can get at HD. But how do I connect the six open wires safely and so it doesn't cause a drop in power? Or will it?These two plus the one I bout would give me almost 50 foot of extension cord.
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Reply:How about this,,, put some ends on it like the one you ordered. By the time this is over it would be simple and bout the same cost to order a number 8 50 ft ready made. The short chunks are expensive top outfit. There was a way to do thyis but you going to spin off and find a harder way that cost an extra fistful. First would have ignored the free wire in this case unless it was SJO 12 or number 10 if I was gonna build it,,, of I was gonna buy would have been 50 ft. Would have cost 2 ends and economical wire easy to manage and use daily or can have a wire 3x as big you dont need and several sets of plug recepts patching little pieces together. Send that 25 back and start this right, right over. \\www.urkafarms.com
Reply:You could leave 50 ft on that machine forever and wouldnt hurt a thing. I used 75 ft 10 on a similar machine 4 years on ratty old electric service, the load is so small and so intermittent it worked dandy.Last edited by Sberry; 4 Weeks Ago at 01:49 PM.www.urkafarms.com
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Originally Posted by smithdoor
In home inside the walls under the floor and attic in July so mush fun. Thank God for WiFi
Reply:Ideal is,,, cord long enough that it reaches the longest to the cart so there is never a connector on the floor. If you think 50 put 60 on and leave it. I dont like plugs on the floor anyway and with this size welder its not a real problem to add a convenience outlet. If a guy doesnt care about larger machines they run on 12 cable with 30 breaker which is also dandy if you dont care about running a buzzer on it. I wired one recent with 12 mc cable, landed both on a 30 was listed for 2 wires. The owner is an electrical knob but he has some new multi and sub 200 feeder, the one was 16A I think? I dont care if there is greater, he can pay someone to upgrade. We all have personal preference with some of this and the environment can be considered. I use free, no problem but I buy legal wire when I need to. I put some 6 in my shop, actually removed 2 of them and would have never overloaded a 10 or saved 10 cents in power from it. In residential, in redneck hookups in cords I am a 10 guy. I see comps in this class wired slightly wrong all the time, I dont lose sleep but 10 cable is good for most of the fac cord welding machines,, cept for the 250 + feeders I believe.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:i would not use a extension cord so thin it would overheat and start on fire before circuit breaker tripped..10ga extension cord i believe rated 30 amps continuous and on a 40 amp breaker that is pushing it. doesnt take maybe5 minutes to shut power off on a panel and swap out circuit breakers. like put in a 30 amp breaker for a 10gea extension cord.if you take circuit breaker out, you know what to look for at home depot or lowes, circuit breakers not that expensive usually most newer machines it be rare to need more than 30 amp unless you welding really thick stuff..i got a 100 foot and 50 foot 10ga extension cords, it be rare but pretty much reach anywhere on my land and i rarely ever weld over 140 amps. never had any problems
Reply:No onje says use one so thin it overheats. The point is understanding how and why its safe to use a 10 on a 50A circuit and often preffered if the machine demands it. You do nt want to trip a breaker on thermal, and circuit design for these machines and this wire do not depend on that, they are a calculated load and require a breaker large enough NOT to trip under operating load. A buzzer comes with a 12 cord, allowed on a 50 cir5cuit with 12 wire,,, 48A at rated output. 210 wire feed,,, half that.www.urkafarms.comIf a guy is using a DC buzzer the real load is under 40 and actually closer to 35 than 40. The 210 allow 14 wire but needs to be limited to 30 breaker, same for 12 cable. I dont use the minimums either but I got no problem with a size better. One of the benifits of modern welders is installation cost, convenience outlets. Kind of sad in a sense saw a guy save up, making payments on a new Snappy welder will run on a 12 but he is saving months now to afford a number 6 wire so he can keep it to 1v drop. Kind of sad professionals cant explain he doesnt need 5$ a foot wire. Its not going to help his safety.Last edited by Sberry; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:39 PM.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:There is a catch,,, we are not loading 10 cord continious at 30A.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:I might get some disagreement here but that machine can run all day on a #10 50 foot cord and it won't even get warm. I seriously doubt voltage drop will be a problem. I've been running a Miller that same size for years on a 50 foot #10 and I use it on my Thunderbolt too. A lot of folks go way overkill but those fat cords can be unwieldy, expensive and un-necessary. Depending on how close to the main he is even a #12 might work.I agree do not piece cords together though, do it up in one length. Those splices have a habit of coming apart and causing problems.
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Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
I might get some disagreement here .....
Reply:
Originally Posted by psacustomcreations
Disagreement on this board about wiring? I'm shocked it is not already three more pages long.
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Reply:I agree about using a 10awg cord. I have personally Used 10awg 100ft with a lincoln 225 for decades, with zero issues. I use home made pigtails / adapters for the nema 5-15 to 6-50 conversion, so your cords are not welder only use.Get the cheapest 100ft 10awg copper cord you can (probably harbor freight). It will be about $150 and up, way up from there. To save some money I buy them from offerup/craigslist/marketplace for about $100 for a new, brand name cords in unopened packages.Anything bigger than #10 will be a serious hit to your wallet with the final price, ($400 and way up).At the point of spending ~$500 for 100 feet I'd rather just bite the bullet and get a generator, but that's just my logic.Last edited by SlowBlues; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:33 PM.
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Originally Posted by SlowBlues
I agree about using a 10awg cord. I have personally Used 10awg 100ft with a lincoln 225 for decades with zero issues.
Reply:Relax, look at the big pro California. LOL Remember the replies are for the OP, not the PROPS from the PROS.So, in your convoluted pro response what would your recommended awg be for the OP's 180c?The buzzbox was just an example bc everyone understands it's power hungry, Making it easy for the OP to understand. As an amateur you're much more likely to run a 180c at limit once in a while, where as a pro would obviously go to a higher amp machine.10awg is by far the best bang for your buck, and what I use most often (I own cords from #4 down, cord bigger than 10 is a beast to handle, 10 is already pushing it).10 will give you the most out of (relatively) limited amp machine.
Reply:
Originally Posted by SlowBlues
Relax, look at the big pro California. LOL Remember the replies are for the OP, not the PROPS from the PROS.
Reply:So a practical guide to cable selection would be size for half to two-thirds of rated capacity, and on the rare occasion that full rated output is needed, just take the project to the welder. Comments?
Reply:If anyone read the specs I posted on that machine it has a 30% duty cycle at 130 amps output with a 20 amp input. Cranking it up to 180 will probably result in closer to a 10% duty cycle, 1 minute of welding out of every 10 minutes. That's why the smaller gauge cord is enough, even at 180 output it will never be able to draw enough current for long enough to heat up the cord.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:As long as its good enough for voltage drop and sized for short circuit protection its ok. Those welders rated to run on 14 at 65 ft,,, a size up, 12 at 50 or less is golden. A buzzer allows it at 65 also. A lot of drop with that though, shortening helps a lot but so does shortening it and going up a size which effectively kills the V drop issue. While the 12 is ok for a 210 the 10 allows for a buzzer if needed which is my personal standard for a home time type welding circuit.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by Sberry
While the 12 is ok for a 210 the 10 allows for a buzzer if needed which is my personal standard for a home time type welding circuit.
Reply:I also put some on 30A with the 10 for 200 class mig. I share a wire with the hoist, have outlet on it, uses the same ocpd as the wire welder i use there. Its a circuit i tailored for this, its specific. I dont need to modify or future proof it, have other circuits the heavier machines are cv onnected to. My buzzer is 10 pipe 50A, 2 ft circuit.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Here is older setup with cord.
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Reply:A pluss with 10 is its a bit more robust at connections than a 12.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:The reason ready made cords are so heavy is they are good for the heavy 250 feeders. I was in a shop a while back where they had a central outlet and cord, the layout made it pretty simple.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:
Originally Posted by SlowBlues
Relax, look at the big pro California. LOL Remember the replies are for the OP, not the PROPS from the PROS.So, in your convoluted pro response what would your recommended awg be for the OP's 180c?The buzzbox was just an example bc everyone understands it's power hungry, Making it easy for the OP to understand. As an amateur you're much more likely to run a 180c at limit once in a while, where as a pro would obviously go to a higher amp machine.10awg is by far the best bang for your buck, and what I use most often (I own cords from #4 down, cord bigger than 10 is a beast to handle, 10 is already pushing it).10 will give you the most out of (relatively) limited amp machine.
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Originally Posted by California
Comments from an amateur, what do the pros think:Is the lesson to be learned here, that it is rare to run a home (not production!) welder at or above 180 amp output? So a practical guide to cable selection would be size for half to two-thirds of rated capacity, and on the rare occasion that full rated output is needed, just take the project to the welder. Comments?Also, turning the welder up when its at the end of a long cord to offfset voltage loss - and monitor if the cable or connectors are getting warm - should cover nearly all but worst-case use, no?Personally I've never tripped the 30 amp breaker in the panel running my 230amp-AC stick welder, occasionally, over near 20 years. 1/8" rod and 130 amps (on the slider, not measured) is all I've needed for things I repair. I suppose playing with the carbon-arc-torch might be the only case where I get closer to rated output.
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Originally Posted by Broccoli1
Hey California,It do get a little messy when discussing the power requirements- which includes extension cords-- for welding machine
First question: "Is the lesson to be learned here, that it is rare to run a home (not production!) welder at or above 180 amp output? "Not exactly, but in this thread the OP has a 180amp machine. Machines in the 150amp to 210amp tend have the same power requirements. they are great size machines for geerage work. 2nd question: So a practical guide to cable selection would be size for half to two-thirds of rated capacity, and on the rare occasion that full rated output is needed, just take the project to the welder. Comments?Kind of same answer in the first part. each welding machine has a duty cycle which allows for a smaller wiring to be used rather than one would expect if the machine was operating 100% full time. So when you see people state a 10g cord will work it is because we know that the cord is sufficient for that particular machine. We are not sizing the cord based on half or 2/3rds the rating of the machine.
3rd "Also, turning the welder up when its at the end of a long cord to offfset voltage loss - and monitor if the cable or connectors are getting warm - should cover nearly all but worst-case use, no?"You really should not have to adjust the machine that much because V drop should be minimal up to 100' and should not have to monitor the cord either.For your 230amp machine - I don't know the exact specs but most in that class are 20% Duty cycle. Lincoln AC/DC225/125 20% at 225 amps. Sure 225amps of welding power but for a short time. And as you have experienced you are only running yours at 130amps for 90% of your work- runs just fine on a 30amp circuit. You could pop in a 50amp CB and still be good. ( Lincoln calls out #10 wire with a 50amp CB )From Lincoln: Three #10 or larger copper wires are required if conduit is used. For long cable runs over 100'(31m), #8 or larger wire in conduit will be needed to prevent excessive voltage drops. Fuse the two hot lines with 50 ampere super lag type fuses as shown in the following diagram.
Reply:As B roc mentioned, a lot of times the little DC will run from 30, I can see that in some kind of emergency but generally not good practice to have the breaker used as a thrmal limiter. That is mainly for use on general circuits that may have more than one outlet and possibly a lot so multiple devices do not overload the wire. In "almost" all or for the purpose here the breaker is for short circuit protection for the wire and for the connected equipment and its an off/on swiutch for the circuit. We could hook a number 10 wire to the welder thru a 100 and never overheat it but,,,, the wire and the machine rely oin the breaker for fault protection. This is what the 50A adapter for the dvi does essentually as well as allow the cord to hook up. The dvi class uses a smaller cord than the 240V only machines, its 14, not allowed to be plugged to 50A so they provide adapter/breaker. This is why they warn about changing it to common end,,, it might be alright provided the change included 30A breaker but this simple adapter allows them to be plugged in to 50.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:Sorry California, I did misread your reply!Broccoli has great info/advice.One thing I would add is modern inverter welders usually can handle a wide range of voltage and thus deal with voltage drop better, BUT voltage drop means power loss through resistance (in the form of heat).When taking your welder to the limit preheat (400ish degrees), and bevels are easy and really help things.10 awg really is a pain to wire/pull in wall. As an extension cord it is heavy/big - but 10awg is osha legal to "modify" by putting on different plug ends that are listed for the cable. I usually cut my 100ft cords into different combos, 50/35/15ft, or whatever combo you think will suit your needs. I like the nylon industrial leviton plugs/receptacles, some people complain they are too tight (hard to unplug), but I see that as an advantage.Again, apologies about misreading your response.Last edited by SlowBlues; 4 Weeks Ago at 02:36 PM.
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Originally Posted by SlowBlues
Sorry California, I did misread your reply!Broccoli has great info/advice.One thing I would add is modern inverter welders usually can handle a wide range of voltage and thus deal with voltage drop better, BUT voltage drop means power loss through resistance (in the form of heat).When taking your welder to the limit preheat (400ish degrees), and bevels are easy and really help things.10 awg really is a pain to wire/pull in wall. As an extension cord it is heavy/big - but 10awg is osha legal to "modify" by putting on different plug ends that are listed for the cable. I usually cut my 100ft cords into different combos, 50/35/15ft, or whatever combo you think will suite your needs. I like the nylon industrial leviton plugs/receptacles, some people complain they are too tight (hard to unplug), but I see that as an advantage.Again, apologies about misreading your response.
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Originally Posted by Sberry
As B roc mentioned, a lot of times the little DC will run from 30, I can see that in some kind of emergency but generally not good practice to have the breaker used as a thrmal limiter. That is mainly for use on general circuits that may have more than one outlet and possibly a lot so multiple devices do not overload the wire. In "almost" all or for the purpose here the breaker is for short circuit protection for the wire and for the connected equipment and its an off/on swiutch for the circuit. We could hook a number 10 wire to the welder thru a 100 and never overheat it but,,,, the wire and the machine rely oin the breaker for fault protection. This is what the 50A adapter for the dvi does essentually as well as allow the cord to hook up. The dvi class uses a smaller cord than the 240V only machines, its 14, not allowed to be plugged to 50A so they provide adapter/breaker. This is why they warn about changing it to common end,,, it might be alright provided the change included 30A breaker but this simple adapter allows them to be plugged in to 50.
Reply:
Originally Posted by SlowBlues
10 awg really is a pain to wire/pull in wall. As an extension cord it is heavy/big - but 10awg is osha legal to "modify" by putting on different plug ends that are listed for the cable. I usually cut my 100ft cords into different combos, 50/35/15ft, or whatever combo you think will suit your needs. I like the nylon industrial leviton plugs/receptacles, some people complain they are too tight (hard to unplug), but I see that as an advantage. |
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发表于 2022-5-19 11:02:22