Sheet metal sculpture using pattern for papercraft

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I want to see if it is possible to create a steel version of 3D papercraft (folded paper) sculptures.I bought a pattern off Etsy that is nicely detailed and good instructions.

Each section prints to 8.5 x 11 paper, which I would transfer to sheet metal (22ga or so). Now the questions... How would I transfer the pattern to the steel (ideally without destroying the paper in the process)? I wonder if one of those spiked wheel tools that seamstress people use would make any kind of mark. I would use a HF brake that mounts on my bench to make the folds (I won't use the tabs on the drawings, just .023 mig tacks to connect the edges).This could well be an exercise in frustration, but want to try for giggles.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:Use some carbon paper and trace over it. They usually have it at Walgreens or Walmart. Thats what I use for leather patterns.Sent from my SM-G975U1 using TapatalkLincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:You can use a punch / prick.  Attach the pattern to the metal. Then mark the intersections with the prick. Remove the pattern the connect the marks with a straight edge and scribe.Put reference marks on the paper and pattern for realignment if necessary.A folding tool like trim guys use might work well,  as angles the tight.Last edited by tapwelder; 10-17-2020 at 07:14 PM.
Reply:Troy and tapwelder have the best ways to do this. I like tapwelders method since it is just straight lines. Maybe try one of these tools to do the bends. The big thing is keeping the other side stable so you get a sharp bend and not a wide "U".Think through the order of the operation or bends so you are working from the inside outward.

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Reply:

Originally Posted by tapwelder

You can use a punch / prick.  Attach the pattern to the metal. Then mark the intersections with the prick. Remove the pattern the connect the marks with a straight edge and scribe.Put reference marks on the paper and pattern for realignment if necessary.
Reply:

Well, laying it out, marking, cutting, and bending worked pretty good. Me mig welding 28ga - not in the cards (yet). Need to watch more videos and practice a bunch, then maybe.Yeswelder MIG-205DS(3) Angle Grinders at the ReadyJust a hobbyist trying to improve
Reply:

Originally Posted by Shootr


Well, laying it out, marking, cutting, and bending worked pretty good. Me mig welding 28ga - not in the cards (yet). Need to watch more videos and practice a bunch, then maybe.
Reply:With 28 gauge material perhaps use an adhesive instead of trying to weld. Or even try soldering. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk:
Reply:

Originally Posted by Shootr

Me mig welding 28ga - not in the cards (yet). Need to watch more videos and practice a bunch, then maybe.
Reply:

Originally Posted by BD1

28 gauge  ?? What happened to the 22 ? 28 is pretty thin and flimsy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Time to buy a Tig welder

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Reply:Just curious- How did the project turn out?
Reply:

Originally Posted by BOP101

Just curious- How did the project turn out?
Reply:You should get that pattern back out.  This time, don't cut off the tabs that fold over because you can use those to rivet through, giving your doggie some of that retro 1950's sci-fi robot dog look.  It'd be very steampunk, imo!