Trailer primer options

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I'm wrapping up a project to convert a fender type 5 ton trailer into a longer, deckover version.  I started with this:

and ended up with this.  I still need to build a set of fold-over ramps.



I have some really high quality industrial paint that is made for oil rigs that I intend to paint it with, but am debating about options for prep.It seems to me that I can do the traditional sandblast, or wet blast method down to bare metal, or do some type of rusty metal primer that sticks to the light surface rust w/o my having to blast it.Is anybody experienced in using the rusty metal type primers and can advise me on how well they work over the long haul?  I'd prefer not to have to spend 1/2 a day sandblasting this, but on the other hand don't want to have paint problems a few years down the road.Thanks.ScottMiller Trailblazer Pro 350DMiller Suitcase MIGMiller Spectrum 2050Miller Syncrowave 250DXLincoln 210MP
Reply:Some of those 2K primers look really good, don't know enough to advise you on a specific brand though...Really surprising results here, looked like some of the "Rust Converts" actually promoted rust! ->
Reply:When I want to "prime" I use Caterpillar paint,, the can says the paint is good to use as a primer, as well as a top coat.Price wise, it is not much different than the Tractor Supply type paints,, but, it sure seems durable.This is good stuff, as long as the colors yellow, black, and white fill your needs.If this is gonna be the primer, and finish paint,, add hardener that is available at Tractor Supply.The hardener (if you are patient enough to wait the FULL required amount of time before spraying) will make the paint level beautifully, as well as add a high gloss.The leveling, and gloss are beyond the intended hardening.If you spray (or brush) before the hardener reacts, the paint will simply end up like no hardener was used.DO NOT use hardener if you are going to add another layer of paint,, the hardener MUST be in the last coat.If you try to paint over the paint that has hardener in it, the next coat of paint will not adhere well.If you decide to top coat the hardener enhanced paint, you need to sand first.
Reply:I've had real good luck with Rust-Oleum " rusty metal primer". Personally I wouldn't sandblast due to the cost. I use a reduced acid wash, followed by a thorough drying with a leaf blower , followed by a wipe down with laquer thinner or acetone. My first application of the primer involves taking a brush and applying it directly to welded joints and areas such as where bolts or other obstacles are. Then depending on the size and shape of the piece, I will then brush, roll or spray the primer. I reduce as little as possible with laquer thinner or acetone. Follow the top coat directions on the can as if left too long before top coat adhesion may not be the best. If that's the case , scuffing or light sanding is required as I have had some cases were the topcoat didn't adhere everywhere. I generally use Rust-Oleum or other alkyd enamel for the top coat with the hardener from TSC , majestic brand, I believe. This has held up as good as anything else in the toxic road brine used in Wisconsin.