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I was moving the truck so that I could reach the bales on the trailer. We're feeding with a 3pt instead of the loader, which makes getting bales off the trailer a PITA. You have to unload from one side, then move the trailer to unload from the other side.Anyways.............I was moving the truck...........nosing it into the side of the semi trailer, when.............................................
Like to scared the sht outta me
Clutch pedal falls to the floor, and the truck keeps moving. Hit the brake to stall it. Luckily it had hay on, so it was easier to stall.
The rod pops off the lever on these trucks. It's fairly common. I'd not be surprised if there have been some serious accidents because of it.
A nylon bushing fits on the thing, held in place by fingers on the bushing that engage the groove at the end of the nub. As ya can see.................it's seen better days. I"ve had it wired up for years, trying to postpone the eventual day when it had to come off the truck. I guess today was the day
The thing is pressed in place
and I ruined it when trying to press it out. The flange on the backside (in the pic) hung up on the socket I was using as an anvil on the press..............mushroomed the damn thing, and had to grind it to the face of the lever, then press the remainder out.This is a problem.........Because I damaged it, I have no idea what the proper diameter of the pin is. Probably just measure one on one of the other trucks, but I hate to remove the bushing on those trucks. Usually you destroy them when removing them. The other way to do this, is to measure the eye on the push rod that goes to the clutch master cylinder, and size the pin from that. If it can be messed up............I will find a way to do it
I figure I'll use some round stock I have on hand. Regular mild steel. The pin is short, and shouldn't be under a lot of stress from leverage. Besides.......using 1144 would not work, being as it has to be welded back in. The bore on the lever was slightly damaged too. There's enough good bore to line up the pin, but a press fit is out of the question now..................so mild steel it is(shrug).Plan is to turn it into a pin with a thread that allows you to retain the bushing without problems like the original part.What was left of the pin, measured .450, and the clutch cylinder pushrod eye measures .490 where it hasn't been wallowed by the pin. Sounds about right for what it is........being as a nylon bushing has to sit in there too.
Reply:Although the bore on the old lever is serrated, I'm thinking it's serrated from installation...........not as made when new.
I'm thinking that you position the lever on the shaft, then tighten it to crush into the teeth on the shaft..................Like a serrated wheel stud, except in reverse. I'm fairly sure I can reinstall the thing with no problem. Lord knows, it was murder to get off the shaft it was so tight.I'll think about it. If I have to go with a new one, it's the same old problem again..............a lousy bushing design.
Reply:I did one of those years ago. That nylon bushing is very thin from new. That was on a F-150 but I believe they are the same until they went hydraulic. I used an oilite bushing that I had to shorten and either turn some down or ream it out. Not to mention it's quite a PITA to access it in the first place.
Reply:If I had the problem I would make a new pin and weld on leaver.Dave
Originally Posted by farmersammm
I was moving the truck so that I could reach the bales on the trailer. We're feeding with a 3pt instead of the loader, which makes getting bales off the trailer a PITA. You have to unload from one side, then move the trailer to unload from the other side.Anyways.............I was moving the truck...........nosing it into the side of the semi trailer, when.............................................
Like to scared the sht outta me
Clutch pedal falls to the floor, and the truck keeps moving. Hit the brake to stall it. Luckily it had hay on, so it was easier to stall.
The rod pops off the lever on these trucks. It's fairly common. I'd not be surprised if there have been some serious accidents because of it.
A nylon bushing fits on the thing, held in place by fingers on the bushing that engage the groove at the end of the nub. As ya can see.................it's seen better days. I"ve had it wired up for years, trying to postpone the eventual day when it had to come off the truck. I guess today was the day
The thing is pressed in place
and I ruined it when trying to press it out. The flange on the backside (in the pic) hung up on the socket I was using as an anvil on the press..............mushroomed the damn thing, and had to grind it to the face of the lever, then press the remainder out.This is a problem.........Because I damaged it, I have no idea what the proper diameter of the pin is. Probably just measure one on one of the other trucks, but I hate to remove the bushing on those trucks. Usually you destroy them when removing them. The other way to do this, is to measure the eye on the push rod that goes to the clutch master cylinder, and size the pin from that. If it can be messed up............I will find a way to do it
I figure I'll use some round stock I have on hand. Regular mild steel. The pin is short, and shouldn't be under a lot of stress from leverage. Besides.......using 1144 would not work, being as it has to be welded back in. The bore on the lever was slightly damaged too. There's enough good bore to line up the pin, but a press fit is out of the question now..................so mild steel it is(shrug).Plan is to turn it into a pin with a thread that allows you to retain the bushing without problems like the original part.What was left of the pin, measured .450, and the clutch cylinder pushrod eye measures .490 where it hasn't been wallowed by the pin. Sounds about right for what it is........being as a nylon bushing has to sit in there too.
Reply:why don't you make brass bushing to fit where old plastic was. or get some already made bushing, brass, like a auto door hinge bushing, box gives inside and outside dimensions on box. for pin, use grade 8 bolt long enough to just use the unthreaded shaft or just enough cut with thread and use bolt shaft welded hole on bracket. maybe some of this idea you can use to fix your problem..hope this helps somelincoln 125spdayton 250 ac/dcmiller 211 w/spool gunahp 200 sx tiglotos ltp5000dkubota b3200 FEL BHof course duramax diesel
Reply:I fixed one with a nut/bolt thing i made up. I dont remember exact now but it last forever.www.urkafarms.com
Reply:How about,,,Forget using a steel pin,,instead,make a solid brass (bronze, whatever) "pin" that fits the mating part.Drill a hole through it, and bolt the brass part to the hole you pressed the worn part out of.The brass part does not need to rotate on the arm, the mating part will take care of that.Add a washer under the head of the bolt, to keep the mating part from falling off of the new brass part.Heck, even I could make that on a lathe,, one diameter, one length,,The hole in the brass part does not even need to be done on a lathe,, you could drill that with your cordless drill.Concentricity is not a concern, the speed is kinda low.
Reply:Had the same thing happen. The clip broke off the first time while in a parking lot at the hardware store then 2nd time was literally leaving my house and the shaft that the clutch cable attaches to like u got in the pic of yours worn down. Mine snapped the weld off so it welded it back on and its zipped tied down there. Got check those every few months lol |
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发表于 2022-1-12 15:51:18