facing cuts on lathe, inside>out

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I don't have much experience with a lathe other than years ago with lots of aluminum (nice and easy).  I had to do a facing cut on a chainsaw sprocket (steel) and it was a pita.  I was using a little 6" craftsman/atlas with a lamppost holder and getting angles right was a task.  The cut was more like a very shallow (1mm) but very wide (25mm oal) bore cut.  I had to run from center out towards myself.  I got the job done, but deflection was a constant problem along the way, no matter how little "stickout" I used w/ 1/4" tool.  Are facing cuts always like this, or, as I suspect, just a case of needing more "hood time?"
Reply:High speed steel makes a lighter cut than carbide.   But a 1/4 inch tool will deflect.Sent from my SM-G960U using TapatalkI haven't built anything I can't throw away.  Perfection is the journey.    Mac
Reply:I would check the jib adjustments. I would give about a 7° rake Most over the counter carbide has 0° rake and does not cut well. I have both carbide insert and HS. Most work I sharpen the HS to 7° rake and turning A36 I use 10° rake.Dave

Originally Posted by Weldalittle

I don't have much experience with a lathe other than years ago with lots of aluminum (nice and easy).  I had to do a facing cut on a chainsaw sprocket (steel) and it was a pita.  I was using a little 6" craftsman/atlas with a lamppost holder and getting angles right was a task.  The cut was more like a very shallow (1mm) but very wide (25mm oal) bore cut.  I had to run from center out towards myself.  I got the job done, but deflection was a constant problem along the way, no matter how little "stickout" I used w/ 1/4" tool.  Are facing cuts always like this, or, as I suspect, just a case of needing more "hood time?"
Reply:If it's your lathe the first thing to do to make your life a lot easier is to ditch the lantern tool post holder for a quick change Aloris style tool post holder.  They make it so much easier to set the tool height perfectly and let you take advantage of tools that are already set with angles built in, etc.  I'm certainly not an expert at running a lathe, but I spent a lot of time struggling with my first two lathes trying to get a consistent finish until I went to a QCTP not long after getting lathe #2.  That made all the difference in the world....way easier and faster.  I've gone through a few more lathes since then, but the first thing I buy for a new lathe is a QCTP and a couple of extra tool holders.  You can leave your favorite tools in a holder, drop it in and it's going to still be right where you want it.Bostar off of eBay is usually the best price around and you're buying from the importer.  I've gone with this kit in a larger size for my lathes and can't see spending the money on a real Aloris for my hobby use.  The biggest challenge for most people is fitting the T nut if you don't have a milling machine.  I have seen someone cut a piece of stock to fit the bottom of the compound rest slot, drill a hole through it for the bolt that holds the QCTP, then weld the bolt to the piece of stock...cut the bolt a touch short so it would be countersunk under the stock and leave room for a bead...worked fine.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/28368706599...gAAOSwkwZhG03HCheck out my bench vise website:  http://mivise.comMiller Syncrowave 250DXMillermatic 350P with XR AlumaProMiller Regency 200 with 22A feeder and Spoolmatic 3Hobart Champion EliteEverlast PowerTig 210EXT