Is there a standard for proper gap between to metals???

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Sorry for the title I could not think of a better way to phrase it.I'm tasked with welding 300 Candy Cane  holders. I will post a picture in a day or so. They look like a lopsided crosses. The steel is 14 gauge 1" square  tube all joints are essentially T Joints, 900 of them. I'm used to working with 1/8 thick and thicker so when I tacked up the first few I had no gap for fear I would blow thru the material. When I weld the first few together the bead looked cold kind of laying on the metal. I took some scrap and beat the hell out of it its strong but looks poor.I then kicked up the voltage and repeated. Again no gap and the weld looks better but not perfect. I'm very happy with the bead quality now. The gap is approximately the thickness of a penny. The wire is filling in nicely. NOTE: I'm Note referring to the 90 degree portion of the joint.Is there a standard for proper gap?
Reply:It is found in welding books as chart.Typically only heavy plate and shapes.I use welding rod some time 0.035" to 3/16" it stops worpage.Dave

Originally Posted by Reebz

Sorry for the title I could not think of a better way to phrase it.I'm tasked with welding 300 Candy Cane  holders. I will post a picture in a day or so. They look like a lopsided crosses. The steel is 14 gauge 1" square  tube all joints are essentially T Joints, 900 of them. I'm used to working with 1/8 thick and thicker so when I tacked up the first few I had no gap for fear I would blow thru the material. When I weld the first few together the bead looked cold kind of laying on the metal. I took some scrap and beat the hell out of it its strong but looks poor.I then kicked up the voltage and repeated. Again no gap and the weld looks better but not perfect. I'm very happy with the bead quality now. The gap is approximately the thickness of a penny. The wire is filling in nicely. NOTE: I'm Note referring to the 90 degree portion of the joint.Is there a standard for proper gap?
Reply:The T welds do not need to be gapped on 14ga.  You will have a gap where the shoulders/webs meet, this is simply filled as you weld it.I guess you're just talking plain ol' fillets.............you don't gap these on any thickness.

  Not a T like you're describing, but same  principle.  Just butt it up, and weld it.

  You don't have to worry about penetration on stuff this light.  Run it hot, and it's fine.I always weld it with NR211 flux core, and never have burn through issues, but I'm right on the edge of blowing through.  Do a few, and you'll develop the proper technique...............travel speed, heat settings.

  MIG should run about the same when you get your parameters dialed in.