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I hear a band saw will travel which results in crooked cuts. Is this true for hand held band saws too? What's the best way to cut steel? Abrasive cut off saw? Dry cut saw? Grinder? Bandsaw? Reciprocating Sawzall? How about a plasma cutter? How difficult is it to cut steel tubing and angle steel with a plasma cutter? I have an abrasive chop saw but it doesn't work that well. Maybe i need a better abrasive disk for it? I have a cheap HF handheld bandsaw that i tried to mount on a stand so i could use it for a horizontal saw but it cut crooked, and i couldn't get it to work right. Im looking for accuracy and straight cuts. I would like to get my cuts accurate within 1/16 of an inch or less.Last edited by Need Advice; 6 Days Ago at 11:09 AM.
Reply:As with many tools, the more you spend typically the better the product but not always. Example there are bandsaws that are pretty darn accurate as well as cold saws or dry cut saws. Any hand held tool you use will boil down to your ability to hold the tool steady and see the line being cut. Not always easy to do and if you have aging eyes or other visual problems that will only exacerbate the problem.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:If I could only choose one it would be a 6" grinder with quality cutting discs. I have all those methods available and plasma is definitely the least used.
Reply:
Originally Posted by N2 Welding
As with many tools, the more you spend typically the better the product but not always. Example there are bandsaws that are pretty darn accurate as well as cold saws or dry cut saws. Any hand held tool you use will boil down to your ability to hold the tool steady and see the line being cut. Not always easy to do and if you have aging eyes or other visual problems that will only exacerbate the problem.
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
If I could only choose one it would be a 6" grinder with quality cutting discs. I have all those methods available and plasma is definitely the least used.
Reply:
Originally Posted by N2 Welding
As with many tools, the more you spend typically the better the product but not always. Example there are bandsaws that are pretty darn accurate as well as cold saws or dry cut saws. Any hand held tool you use will boil down to your ability to hold the tool steady and see the line being cut. Not always easy to do and if you have aging eyes or other visual problems that will only exacerbate the problem.
Reply:What about abrasive chop saw blades? Can i get a thinner blade and would that cut without needing to apply pressure to the cut? Applying pressure just makes the blade wander.
Reply:Every type of tool has its place. A lot of people like the 15” evolution saws with cast base and cast quick adjustable clamp. I have a Makita 12” metal cut off saw. It’s pretty accurate for the type of stuff I do.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:
Originally Posted by N2 Welding
Every type of tool has its place. A lot of people like the 15” evolution saws with cast base and cast quick adjustable clamp. I have a Makita 12” metal cut off saw. It’s pretty accurate for the type of stuff I do.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
What about abrasive chop saw blades? Can i get a thinner blade and would that cut without needing to apply pressure to the cut? Applying pressure just makes the blade wander.
Reply:Not knowing what I know now back then before purchasing the Makita I’d have looked to see if the arbor was loose or wobbly. Does your abrasive saw have any wiggle room in the blade if you hold the blade and move it side to side? Could be a worn out tool. Did you get it new? What brand is it?Last edited by N2 Welding; 5 Days Ago at 11:48 AM.Lincoln, ESAB, Thermal Dynamics, Victor, Miller, Dewalt, Makita, Kalamzoo. Hand tools, power tools, welding and cutting tools.
Reply:I had this crazy idea one time about modifying a reciprocating saw by mounting it on a stand so it would cut like a horizontal bandsaw. I thought the thicker blade wouldn't travel. I might try that one day just for kicks.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
I have a cheap HF handheld bandsaw that i tried to ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
As soon as you combine the word "CHEAP" with the word "ACCURATE",, you are doomed to failure,,I am sorry, there just is not a "short term" answer.Now, I bought my bandsaw, used in good condition, back in the year 2000 for $1,000.Per year, my cost has been $47,, and I get WAY better accuracy than 1/16",, I would bet I get better than 1/64" accuracy.The saw will cut as accurately as I am willing to spend the time to position the part. So, I can literally get milling machine accurate parts, if I work at it.So, are you willing to spend $47 per year?? or,, are you gonna just wish you could make accurate parts??
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
As soon as you combine the word "CHEAP" with the word "ACCURATE",, you are doomed to failure,,I am sorry, there just is not a "short term" answer.Now, I bought my bandsaw, used in good condition, back in the year 2000 for $1,000.Per year, my cost has been $47,, and I get WAY better accuracy than 1/16",, I would bet I get better than 1/64" accuracy.The saw will cut as accurately as I am willing to spend the time to position the part. So, I can literally get milling machine accurate parts, if I work at it.So, are you willing to spend $47 per year?? or,, are you gonna just wish you could make accurate parts??
Reply:The cheapest way to get a good cut is going to be cutting it by hand with a wafer wheel, but you will need to take your time and pay a lot of attention to detail. You will also need a big enough wheel you can make the cut in one pass, so a bigger piece of metal would require a 7/9" cut off wheel. I would personally go for a nice horizontal band saw if I had the room.Airco Auto-Pak 130Forney 235AC/DC
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
What about abrasive chop saw blades? Can i get a thinner blade and would that cut without needing to apply pressure to the cut? Applying pressure just makes the blade wander.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
Thanks. I don't have a steady hand and my eyesight isnt that good.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
You're right, maybe i should have said accuracy within 1/32 of an inch at least. If i had the money i would buy nothing but the best, but i have to choose wisely what i buy because i need so many tools. I need to build or buy a good welding table, a plasma cutter, possibly another air compressor, a few more Milwaukee M18 fuel cordless tools, and i need to do some more building on my little shop (12x22).
Reply:
Originally Posted by Roert42
The cheapest way to get a good cut is going to be cutting it by hand with a wafer wheel, but you will need to take your time and pay a lot of attention to detail. You will also need a big enough wheel you can make the cut in one pass, so a bigger piece of metal would require a 7/9" cut off wheel. I would personally go for a nice horizontal band saw if I had the room.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Therein lies your problem
Definitely get a quality thin blade. Makita makes a good one. Then literally "CHOP" with your chop saw. Cut two seconds, lift slightly chop another 2 seconds all with even pressure. Do NOT push down and make a single continuous cut. This is what makes your blade flex and result in inaccurate cuts. I agree with MJD. My plasma is for cutting shapes mostly. Cutting material to length I will use the other aforementioned tools. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Thanks for the reply.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Louie1961
I doubt that anyone really "needs" a plasma cutter if they are on a budget. Same for a welding table. There are plenty of ways to cut metal that are more cost efficient than a plasma cutter. As for a welding table, you should consider buying some good squares first, like the Fireball tools monster squares. https://fireballtool.com/squares/
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
I want fast cutting so i can sell my projects cheaper. .
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
While this is partially true your main concerns should be :Working more efficiently and enjoyably while making more money. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Originally Posted by Lis2323
Therein lies your problem
Definitely get a quality thin blade. Makita makes a good one. Then literally "CHOP" with your chop saw. Cut two seconds, lift slightly chop another 2 seconds all with even pressure. Do NOT push down and make a single continuous cut. This is what makes your blade flex and result in inaccurate cuts. I agree with MJD. My plasma is for cutting shapes mostly. Cutting material to length I will use the other aforementioned tools. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
Definitely use a thin blade. Ive used Makita, they worked pretty good. I have some Norton blue fire blades which work unbelievably well. Main thing is thin blades and decent quality. The cheap thicker blades glaze up easily and get to where they just won't cut.
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
Definitely use a thin blade. Ive used Makita, they worked pretty good. I have some Norton blue fire blades which work unbelievably well. Main thing is thin blades and decent quality. The cheap thicker blades glaze up easily and get to where they just won't cut.
Reply:3/32" is pretty common. I think they make thinner yet, usually marketed for cutting bundles of metal studs.
Reply:Im noty sure how durable this saw is but its affordable and cuts steel well.
Reply:You mentioned you have a bandsaw which is not cutting straight. My original band saw blade was toast after about 3 cuts. As mentioned before buy quality, the cheapest band saws with a good quality blade will cut straight when the band saw is set up properly. Be sure and buy the proper size blade of the proper thickness. I installed one blade of the wrong thickness and had to reset my bandsaw setting and got them out of wack. Then went back to the proper thickness and spent some time making sure I had it set up properly. It now cuts very straight, I don't try to rush it when cutting anything. My chop saw I have tried cheap thick blades which either take too long to cut and or do not cut straight. Using a good thin blade and using as suggested only cutting for a few seconds then lifting the blade and then cutting again gives good results. I also have a cutting torch, plasma cutter, and various grinders. I use one of my 4 1/2 grinders with a good quality thin blade and get great cuts. I always mark the place where I am going to cut then use a straight edge when possible to keep the blade cutting on the line. This method gives great cuts and very little clean up of the metal is needed before welding. Plus the 4 1/2 grinder is light weight and easy to maneuver. Of all the methods I use the bandsaw and grinder with a good cutting wheel are my favorites as the metal is ready for welding with very little prep after cutting it.
Reply:
Originally Posted by gnewby
You mentioned you have a bandsaw which is not cutting straight. My original band saw blade was toast after about 3 cuts. As mentioned before buy quality, the cheapest band saws with a good quality blade will cut straight when the band saw is set up properly. Be sure and buy the proper size blade of the proper thickness. I installed one blade of the wrong thickness and had to reset my bandsaw setting and got them out of wack. Then went back to the proper thickness and spent some time making sure I had it set up properly. It now cuts very straight, I don't try to rush it when cutting anything. My chop saw I have tried cheap thick blades which either take too long to cut and or do not cut straight. Using a good thin blade and using as suggested only cutting for a few seconds then lifting the blade and then cutting again gives good results. I also have a cutting torch, plasma cutter, and various grinders. I use one of my 4 1/2 grinders with a good quality thin blade and get great cuts. I always mark the place where I am going to cut then use a straight edge when possible to keep the blade cutting on the line. This method gives great cuts and very little clean up of the metal is needed before welding. Plus the 4 1/2 grinder is light weight and easy to maneuver. Of all the methods I use the bandsaw and grinder with a good cutting wheel are my favorites as the metal is ready for welding with very little prep after cutting it.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
Thank you. I have oxy propane torch and a cheap Kawasaki chop saw. I have cheap grinders too but plan on buying a good 13 amp 4 1/2 inch grinder and a 9" as well for both cutting and grinding. The bandsaw i have is a cheap HF saw that i tried to turn into a horizontal bandsaw. Maybe i didn't build the stand properly, maybe i used the wrong blade, maybe the saw is just junk, i dont know. I love the idea of having a good quiet bandsaw but at this point I'm considering the evolution saw because it seems like much less hassle and its affordable, plus i can cut wood and brick with it too. Im not sure if it will cut tile but i have a tile job planned for the future.. Maybe in the future i will buy a quality bandsaw if i start making more money.
Reply:
Originally Posted by M J D
I would highly recommend getting a 6" grinder. The greater depth of cut and power is huge without adding much weight. I very rarely use a 7 or 9" grinder anymore because the 6" is almost as aggressive and much easier to handle.
Reply:Buy a horizontal bandsaw. Then you can think about other better ways of cutting while it works.Dry saws are nice, just noisey.Good luck.
Reply:
Originally Posted by tapwelder
Buy a horizontal bandsaw. Then you can think about other better ways of cutting while it works.Dry saws are nice, just noisey.Good luck.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
I also hear that dry saws leave metal shavings all over the shop. Thanks for the advice. Noise is a factor because i have hearing damage and my ears are sensitive to loud noises. I can wear hearing protection but some noises are still too loud.
Reply:
Originally Posted by wb4rt
In that case you do not want a dry saw, an Evolution, nor an abrasive saw. You need to get a good blade for your bandsaw and spend 30 minutes tuning it up. There are good resources for how to tune it up. It will be cheap, quiet, and accurate.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Need Advice
What size blade does your bandsaw use? Is it 1/2 inch or bigger?
Reply:You can't cut straight with a bandsaw.You can't cut straight with an abrasive saw.hmmm
Anyhoo... I have the smaller version but I do not use it on wood at all..... as all of the metal shaving from cutting steel has ruined the plastic bits on the saw. It sits in a corner now as we got a Dewalt Metal Chop saw.All metal, good base and just cuts mo' better.We also have a Dewalt Abrasive saw.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:My projects lately have only required relatively small material and I use the Makita dry cut saw. I dont think Ive used the bandsaw more than a couple of times in the last few years.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk:
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
My saw uses a 1" blade, and I usually keep a 5-8 TPI variable pitch bi-metal blade on the saw.
Reply:Is there an instance where abrasive saw would be preferred? Excluding price. Which saw win on blade efficiency and cost?Need advice, you can manage the shavings, especially if you have a cutting station. You will also generate shavings with a bandsaw. The dust from abrasive cutting more difficult to manage.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Broccoli1
You can't cut straight with a bandsaw.You can't cut straight with an abrasive saw.hmmm
Anyhoo... I have the smaller version but I do not use it on wood at all..... as all of the metal shaving from cutting steel has ruined the plastic bits on the saw. It sits in a corner now as we got a Dewalt Metal Chop saw.All metal, good base and just cuts mo' better.We also have a Dewalt Abrasive saw.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Lis2323
My projects lately have only required relatively small material and I use the Makita dry cut saw. I don’t think I’ve used the bandsaw more than a couple of times in the last few years.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Reply:
Originally Posted by tapwelder
Is there an instance where abrasive saw would be preferred? Excluding price. Which saw win on blade efficiency and cost?Need advice, you can manage the shavings, especially if you have a cutting station. You will also generate shavings with a bandsaw. The dust from abrasive cutting more difficult to manage.
Reply:Does anyone here have a bandsaw with a 1/2 blade? Does it cut straight?
Reply:To be honest i need a cheap saw. So if i go with a bandsaw it will be one in the $300 dollar range. It would be an import model. I suppose if i buy it and have problems cutting bigger pieces of steel on it, or have problems with accuracy, i can always bolt a table onto it and use it for a vertical bandsaw instead, or just sell it. Or i can just buy the evolution and use ear protection. If anyone has had luck with the smaller cheap import bandsaws i would like to hear a review.
Reply:
Originally Posted by SweetMK
The saw will cut as accurately as I am willing to spend the time to position the part. So, I can literally get milling machine accurate parts, if I work at it.
Reply:Maybe i'll try out the HF bandsaw. I have 90 days to return it if i don't like it. |
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发表于 2021-9-23 23:26:57