Small 7018 - smaller than 3/32?

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I have been working on a project the past couple weeks that uses a lot of 3/32-1/4" thick steel. I've been using mostly a combination of 3/32" 6011 for tacking and 3/32" 7018 for beads. I did try 3/32" 6010, but it is too aggressive at an amperage I can run it so I went back to 6011 and that's worked OK. The hard thing with the 3/32" 7018 is the lower amperage of the recommended range is 85 amps. I am trying to run it down at 55 amps. And even then I am blowing through some parts. I'd rather stick to 7018 as the assemblies are structural that will be subject to dynamic loading, vibration, and rattling. From what I know about rods - 7018 is the most ideal for the environment. The specific rods I am using are 3/32" Lincoln JET-LH-78 MR-RSP. For what it is worth, I have 1/16" Hobart 7014 and 5/64" Blue Demon 7014. I've had pretty good luck with the 5/64" 7014, as far as running the rods on small stuff goes. The 1/16" rods are a bit too flimsy. If I could get something like a 5/64" 7018 that runs like the JET-LH-78 MR-RSP's that would be ideal. Any ideas on how to find something like that? Or is there another small rod you would run instead?2 rods I will not run for this application are 6013 and 7014. They are too brittle. Hence why even having 7014 the size I need I won't run it for this application.
Reply:I think I have some 1/16" 7018. It is almost like tig welding,
Reply:7018 Is available for AC and for DC. Do you have the right rod to match machine ?? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Why are you running 3/32" welding 1/4" steel?? Are you trying to fill some hellish gaps?Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:

Originally Posted by mla2ofus

Why are you running 3/32" welding 1/4" steel?? Are you trying to fill some hellish gaps?
Reply:

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

Because I am welding 1/16" wall pipe to the edge of 1/4" and 3/16" plate/bar. The pipe is mostly what I am burning through. I've done a fair amount of 1/8" metal fine with low amperage on the 3/32' rods. When I get over 60a the rods run better but then its way too hot for the small stuff - hence the post.Edit - on 2nd read to the question - 3/32" rod should be plenty adequate for 1/4" steel. If that is all of what I was welding I could run a lot higher amperage and be fine on 3/32" rod. Not sure what you are getting at with "gap filling"  on 1/4? 2 machines - '66 Idealarc 250 AC/DC and Everlast Powerarc 210STL. I've been using the Idealarc for about 80% of the past project. Both machines have been running DCEP.For what it is worth, I have 1/8" and 5/32" of the same 7018 rods - but those will be even harder to run at low amps so getting them to run and at an amperage that doesn't blow through the small stuff would be impossible to do what I'm doing.
Reply:So you're welding the end of the  pipe to the 1/4" wide edge of the plate? If so that sounds like a job for a mig. Pics help prevent a lot of unnecessary questions.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:

Originally Posted by milomilo

Try 6013 on DCEN. Might work well for the thin wall pipe.
Reply:

Originally Posted by mla2ofus

So you're welding the end of the  pipe to the 1/4" wide edge of the plate? If so that sounds like a job for a mig. Pics help prevent a lot of unnecessary questions.
Reply:Sounds to me you need to do some practice runs and focus on concentrating the arc, and thus the heat on the thicker material.
Reply:

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

See original post.
Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

Sounds to me you need to do some practice runs and focus on concentrating the arc, and thus the heat on the thicker material.
Reply:If its .062 wall thickness its tube not pipe. If its "structural" that tube will fail long before the "brittle" 6013/7014 weld will. Putting an aluminum backer rod in the tube is an easy way to help reduce burn through. Using thicker metal(pipe) is probably much easier than trying to use thin wall conduit(and stronger too). You will  find that designing stuff to be welded will save you a lot of time, rather than fighting with materials that aren't a good fit for the job. Good LuckAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

I have been working on a project the past couple weeks that uses a lot of 3/32-1/4" thick steel. I've been using mostly a combination of 3/32" 6011 for tacking and 3/32" 7018 for beads. I did try 3/32" 6010, but it is too aggressive at an amperage I can run it so I went back to 6011 and that's worked OK. The hard thing with the 3/32" 7018 is the lower amperage of the recommended range is 85 amps. I am trying to run it down at 55 amps. And even then I am blowing through some parts. I'd rather stick to 7018 as the assemblies are structural that will be subject to dynamic loading, vibration, and rattling. From what I know about rods - 7018 is the most ideal for the environment. The specific rods I am using are 3/32" Lincoln JET-LH-78 MR-RSP. For what it is worth, I have 1/16" Hobart 7014 and 5/64" Blue Demon 7014. I've had pretty good luck with the 5/64" 7014, as far as running the rods on small stuff goes. The 1/16" rods are a bit too flimsy. If I could get something like a 5/64" 7018 that runs like the JET-LH-78 MR-RSP's that would be ideal. Any ideas on how to find something like that? Or is there another small rod you would run instead?2 rods I will not run for this application are 6013 and 7014. They are too brittle. Hence why even having 7014 the size I need I won't run it for this application.
Reply:

Originally Posted by albrightree

If its .062 wall thickness its tube not pipe. If its "structural" that tube will fail long before the "brittle" 6013/7014 weld will. Putting an aluminum backer rod in the tube is an easy way to help reduce burn through. Using thicker metal(pipe) is probably much easier than trying to use thin wall conduit(and stronger too). You will  find that designing stuff to be welded will save you a lot of time, rather than fighting with materials that aren't a good fit for the job. Good Luck
Reply:

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

The hard thing with the 3/32" 7018 is the lower amperage of the recommended range is 85 amps. I am trying to run it down at 55 amps. And even then I am blowing through some parts. I'd rather stick to 7018 as the assemblies are structural that will be subject to dynamic loading, vibration, and rattling. From what I know about rods - 7018 is the most ideal for the  .
Reply:I would look type welding you doing.I have burn a lot 7018 rod only in field. In the shop I used flux core faster and fewer problems. 7018 needs to be per heated most will use right out of a open box. Without per heating 7018 is no longer low hydrogen.  Dave

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

I have been working on a project the past couple weeks that uses a lot of 3/32-1/4" thick steel. I've been using mostly a combination of 3/32" 6011 for tacking and 3/32" 7018 for beads. I did try 3/32" 6010, but it is too aggressive at an amperage I can run it so I went back to 6011 and that's worked OK. The hard thing with the 3/32" 7018 is the lower amperage of the recommended range is 85 amps. I am trying to run it down at 55 amps. And even then I am blowing through some parts. I'd rather stick to 7018 as the assemblies are structural that will be subject to dynamic loading, vibration, and rattling. From what I know about rods - 7018 is the most ideal for the environment. The specific rods I am using are 3/32" Lincoln JET-LH-78 MR-RSP. For what it is worth, I have 1/16" Hobart 7014 and 5/64" Blue Demon 7014. I've had pretty good luck with the 5/64" 7014, as far as running the rods on small stuff goes. The 1/16" rods are a bit too flimsy. If I could get something like a 5/64" 7018 that runs like the JET-LH-78 MR-RSP's that would be ideal. Any ideas on how to find something like that? Or is there another small rod you would run instead?2 rods I will not run for this application are 6013 and 7014. They are too brittle. Hence why even having 7014 the size I need I won't run it for this application.
Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

Sounds to me you need to do some practice runs and focus on concentrating the arc, and thus the heat on the thicker material.
Reply:

Originally Posted by William McCormick

Try a 7016 rod they are great for thin material and thick.Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:Pipe wall looks like about > 0.125"  Should be fairly easy with 3/32" e7014 @ 75-80 amps . Make your life easier, and let gravity help you. Put the pipe in the vise horizontally, stand the  1/4 " plate vertically, tack , and weld. You will adjust the angle of the welding rod to direct the arc at the 1/4" plate, and allow the puddle to droop into the pipe while holding a tight arc. Using 7018 would work too, but require more heat which could distort the pipe if its a tight fit for the bolt(and isn't really necessary).

You appear to have the Luxury of being able to change the position of the weld, in other words, you don't have to weld this in place underneath a machine or vehicle. Use the positioning to your advantage whenever possible on welds. If you cut parts for 12 of these, I would be pretty sure, that the last 2 you made would be perfect. At least thats how it goes for me.It looks like you made your own box tube on part of this device. Is this for an attachment for a receiver hitch ? Just curious...https://www.weldingweb.com/images/smilies/smile.gifBest RegardsAirco 250 ac/dc Heliwelder Square waveMiller Synchrowave 180 sdMiller Econo Twin HFLincoln 210 MPDayton 225 ac/dcVictor torchesSnap-On YA-212Lotos Cut60D
Reply:

Originally Posted by Josey

Hi. William  Where do you  Buy  or find  7016  Rods?
Reply:

Originally Posted by albrightree

Pipe wall looks like about > 0.125"  Should be fairly easy with 3/32" e7014 @ 75-80 amps . Make your life easier, and let gravity help you. Put the pipe in the vise horizontally, stand the  1/4 " plate vertically, tack , and weld. You will adjust the angle of the welding rod to direct the arc at the 1/4" plate, and allow the puddle to droop into the pipe while holding a tight arc. Using 7018 would work too, but require more heat which could distort the pipe if its a tight fit for the bolt(and isn't really necessary).

You appear to have the Luxury of being able to change the position of the weld, in other words, you don't have to weld this in place underneath a machine or vehicle. Use the positioning to your advantage whenever possible on welds. If you cut parts for 12 of these, I would be pretty sure, that the last 2 you made would be perfect. At least thats how it goes for me.It looks like you made your own box tube on part of this device. Is this for an attachment for a receiver hitch ? Just curious...https://www.weldingweb.com/images/smilies/smile.gifBest Regards
Reply:You have enough weld on those parts to make a trailer hitch for a truck or tractor.  In other words, too much weld.  A smaller bead and moving faster will fix the burn through problem.  Heck, for that application a few heavy tacks would be more than enough.  I have made implements for my tractor loader where  I forgot to weld out some tacked up parts and they held up fine to heavy work.  I am always amazed how strong a small amount of good fused weld actually is.Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

I have been working on a project the past couple weeks that uses a lot of 3/32-1/4" thick steel. I've been using mostly a combination of 3/32" 6011 for tacking and 3/32" 7018 for beads. I did try 3/32" 6010, but it is too aggressive at an amperage I can run it so I went back to 6011 and that's worked OK. The hard thing with the 3/32" 7018 is the lower amperage of the recommended range is 85 amps. I am trying to run it down at 55 amps. And even then I am blowing through some parts. I'd rather stick to 7018 as the assemblies are structural that will be subject to dynamic loading, vibration, and rattling. From what I know about rods - 7018 is the most ideal for the environment. The specific rods I am using are 3/32" Lincoln JET-LH-78 MR-RSP. For what it is worth, I have 1/16" Hobart 7014 and 5/64" Blue Demon 7014. I've had pretty good luck with the 5/64" 7014, as far as running the rods on small stuff goes. The 1/16" rods are a bit too flimsy. If I could get something like a 5/64" 7018 that runs like the JET-LH-78 MR-RSP's that would be ideal. Any ideas on how to find something like that? Or is there another small rod you would run instead?2 rods I will not run for this application are 6013 and 7014. They are too brittle. Hence why even having 7014 the size I need I won't run it for this application.
Reply:

Originally Posted by FlyFishn

Here is a close up of the weld facing up in the earlier picture. What you describe is essentially what I did. I kept the side-to-side motion (I assume that is the "wash" you are referring to) very small. I didn't want a wide bead and the further the side-to-side motion got the more arc time over the tube = more heat. Even still, there is some undesirable undercut on the tube.  Here is the 2nd one, after the cut off one. The red arrow points to the side of the wall that I blew through. This one didn't open up, but the wall was compromised. I left it and filed the blow-through. In this case adding a rod inside the tube would probably work. I suppose I could use a bolt to do the same thing as a rod.