Tig filler for spot on a diesel tank prone to cracking.

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Hey guys. Havent been on here in a while, but I got this Case 580 super K I need a bit of advice on welding up.The diesel tank is part of the left hand side frame rail and on these super K backhoes they are very prone to cracking in this one spot where the rear engine mounts are.  Its so common that mechanics/dealers reported these cracks happening hours after they left the dealer lot back when they were built in the early 90's.  Its not a big crack, but the diesel is leaking and I need it to stop. The Access SUCKS and with a lot of **** covered in oil and grease down there I just dont want to stick weld it even tho I know that would be best.I want to tig weld it, but seems like these repairs may be prone to cracking again. Nothing is structural. Its just a leak that needs fixed and I want to use a tig filler that will give me the most ductility possible so I don't have to repeat this repair in the future.  Anyone got any filler suggestions?    I'm gonna drain the tank to below the crack/leak, probably run my oxyfuel torch over the crack after I grind it out a bit/clean it up as best as I can (using the torch to clean up any contaminants), then tig it up.       Would a er70s2 rod be best still, or how about a nickle rod of some kind?   Maybe silicon bronze?  Like I said, just stoppin the leak and hoping it has some ductility to keep from cracking again. This is not a structural area, just the top of the frame rail near where the engine mount is. Thanks. Wish the access was better in here fixing this thing.Dynasty 200DX   (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864   (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel

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Reply:

Originally Posted by outdoort

Hey guys. Havent been on here in a while, but I got this Case 580 super K I need a bit of advice on welding up.The diesel tank is part of the left hand side frame rail and on these super K backhoes they are very prone to cracking in this one spot where the rear engine mounts are.  Its so common that mechanics/dealers reported these cracks happening hours after they left the dealer lot back when they were built in the early 90's.  Its not a big crack, but the diesel is leaking and I need it to stop. The Access SUCKS and with a lot of **** covered in oil and grease down there I just dont want to stick weld it even tho I know that would be best.I want to tig weld it, but seems like these repairs may be prone to cracking again. Nothing is structural. Its just a leak that needs fixed and I want to use a tig filler that will give me the most ductility possible so I don't have to repeat this repair in the future.  Anyone got any filler suggestions?    I'm gonna drain the tank to below the crack/leak, probably run my oxyfuel torch over the crack after I grind it out a bit/clean it up as best as I can (using the torch to clean up any contaminants), then tig it up.       Would a er70s2 rod be best still, or how about a nickle rod of some kind?   Maybe silicon bronze?  Like I said, just stoppin the leak and hoping it has some ductility to keep from cracking again. This is not a structural area, just the top of the frame rail near where the engine mount is. Thanks. Wish the access was better in here fixing this thing.
Reply:Screw that Tig nonsense. Put enough fuel in the tank so it's over the leak and use 6010 or 6011. Even with diesel I wouldn't weld it with vapor in the tank. 6010 or 6011 isnt really affected by fuel or oil like other electrodes.
Reply:I'd use epoxy and FG and wouldn't weld a used fuel tank on a bet ... but I know people do! I once tried brazing a loop onto a used metal 5-gallon paint pail to try to pull apart two of them that were jammed together... all I got for my efforts was a big KBOOM and a bucket in the face. Glad I was wearing a face shield!Last edited by Kelvin; 16 Hours Ago at 11:59 AM.