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A few days ago I used the Handy Plasma 380 to cut some sheet metal and all was working fine. I left the machine on and for a while and turned it off later. A few hours after that I flipped the switch back on and the air came on but not the power light. I checked all the obvious things like power to the unit, good ground. The manual trouble shooting flow chart says to check input voltage and I did 235V, replaced the power switch just to make sure, no change. I don't really know how to go further with diagnostics. I am not finding any parts listed online other than consumables. I would appreciate any guidance.Thanks
Reply:Is there a better place to post this question?
Reply:take a look at trouble shooting section https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...srfTRVve2QlHse
Reply:It could be a lot of things from a lose wire, lose connector, input resistors, rectifier, etc. I don't see a fuse in there any were.www.georgesplasmacuttershop.comPlasma Cutter and Welder Sales and Repairs--Ebay storeTec.Mo. Dealer Consumables for the PT and IPT torch's
Reply:I did go through the trouble shooting section no help, just checking AC input that is good. I have spoken with ESAB tech and they have been very helpful. I need to narrow it down to the HF board or the inverter. If the inverter has failed it is not worth fixing. The HF board I was told is the most common failure but the usual symptom is no arc, not the power light off also. I checked several of the voltage levels last night and I know I am not getting any voltage out of the HF board when triggered. I need to verify if I am getting the proper output from the inverter.Thanks for the replies
Reply:So it appears that the inverter board is bad. It has no DC output from the inverter. This board costs as much as I paid for the machine, unless I can find one cheaper this machine is done. I am open to any suggestions.
Reply:Best proven plasma cutter is HYPERTHERM. Buy once, cry once. Made in USA and a employee owned company.
Reply:
Originally Posted by newstylecustoms
So it appears that the inverter board is bad. It has no DC output from the inverter. This board costs as much as I paid for the machine, unless I can find one cheaper this machine is done. I am open to any suggestions.
Reply:
Originally Posted by BD1
Best proven plasma cutter is HYPERTHERM. Buy once, cry once. Made in USA and a employee owned company.
Reply:[QUOTE=Brand X;8641379]So what do you tell the guys with blown up PM-30? (same era) Been a few of those too.
Review HYPERTHERM , sure it can happen as with Miller and Lincoln too. The difference is with the cheap imports, 9 out of 10 die and are junk. Those $500,000.00 plasma cutting tables use HYPERTHERM. I saw these at Fabtech. It appeared that almost everyone had a HYPERTHERM. Big plasma cutters is where they started.
Reply:Did someone say big plasma cutters?
Reply:[QUOTE=BD1;8641385]
Originally Posted by Brand X
So what do you tell the guys with blown up PM-30? (same era) Been a few of those too.
Review HYPERTHERM , sure it can happen as with Miller and Lincoln too. The difference is with the cheap imports, 9 out of 10 die and are junk. Those $500,000.00 plasma cutting tables use HYPERTHERM. I saw these at Fabtech. It appeared that almost everyone had a HYPERTHERM. Big plasma cutters is where they started.
Reply:Brand X, you're right about cutting, one toy isn't gonna cut it. Sorry had to say that. That's why there are so many options out there. I have as many of us here too many tools to cut it. Every cutting job is different. I love the Milwaukee metal cutting circular saw on flat sheetmetal or plate. The ELLIS saw is great to set it up and do something else. My Milwaukee portaband on the stand is always ready for that quick cut. This is the reason these manufacturers keep designing more ways to cut steel. You need a 10'X10' storage area just for cutting tools and equipment.
Reply:
Originally Posted by newstylecustoms
So it appears that the inverter board is bad. It has no DC output from the inverter. This board costs as much as I paid for the machine, unless I can find one cheaper this machine is done. I am open to any suggestions.
Reply:
Originally Posted by newstylecustoms
So it appears that the inverter board is bad. It has no DC output from the inverter. This board costs as much as I paid for the machine, unless I can find one cheaper this machine is done. I am open to any suggestions.
Reply:
Originally Posted by ronsii
Post up some *good* pics of the board (front n back) there's a chance that the problem can be visually identified... or at least we can give you some insight into troubleshooting/fixing it ats to what does what on the board
Reply:These pics probably are not detailed enough to see anything but it is worth a shot.
Reply:Second picture down.... blown black component (mosfet).Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:
Originally Posted by jontheturboguy
Second picture down.... blown black component (mosfet).
Reply:
Originally Posted by Iain P
Yup I see it labled Q109. If the op has a multimeter with a diode setting he should check all of the mosfets for shorts by checking the the 3 leads coming out of them. Check all combinations of the leads some should ways the meter should read 0.6 to 0.7v and out of scale, usually shown as 1 in the other. Any that don’t show this behavior is most likely toast. Usually the dead ones show 0v in all directions because the are shorted out inside.
Reply:Kinda hard to tell in the pictures so far, but for visual checks always check the caps first for any abnormal bulging or fluid coming from their base... second check the transistors bipolar and fet types for any bulging or burn marks including soot on the pc board right next to them and sometimes you can spot a tiny hole in the case where the junction failed and blew off some steam
after that look for burned or cracked resistors, diodes or any other tubular components. If you're not seeing any obvious damage to the primary power areas on that board then I would start looking at the daughter board as it probably generates the voltage references and frequency timings that drive the main board so when it quits you got nothing... this is where it helps to have some service information.... unfortunately most companies don't like providing it out for high energy devices because of liability issues
!!!*** and just to mention it right now if you don't already know it, Any of the capacitors on that board can store LETHAL amounts of voltage!!!! even if they have been unpowered a while, so be careful how you handle the board and always discharge them manually***!!!
Reply:
Originally Posted by ronsii
Kinda hard to tell in the pictures so far, but for visual checks always check the caps first for any abnormal bulging or fluid coming from their base... second check the transistors bipolar and fet types for any bulging or burn marks including soot on the pc board right next to them and sometimes you can spot a tiny hole in the case where the junction failed and blew off some steam
after that look for burned or cracked resistors, diodes or any other tubular components. If you're not seeing any obvious damage to the primary power areas on that board then I would start looking at the daughter board as it probably generates the voltage references and frequency timings that drive the main board so when it quits you got nothing... this is where it helps to have some service information.... unfortunately most companies don't like providing it out for high energy devices because of liability issues
!!!*** and just to mention it right now if you don't already know it, Any of the capacitors on that board can store LETHAL amounts of voltage!!!! even if they have been unpowered a while, so be careful how you handle the board and always discharge them manually***!!!
Reply:I took some time to look at individual component last night but did not see anything apparent.
Reply:Seemslikea pretty good chance it is more than likely the sub board, especially if it just up and quit without any smoke,noise,pops, booms or other fanfare.... or something elsein the machine or wiring???
Reply:Try looking on EBay for need board If ca not find one there some thaf will electronic repair but the cost is high.A name brand will have replacement parts even HF also most can found on EBay Dave
Originally Posted by newstylecustoms
These pics probably are not detailed enough to see anything but it is worth a shot.
Originally Posted by newstylecustoms
Is there a better place to post this question? |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:19:35