New Old Tig machine for new to tig old weldor

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Hi. I have been welding with stick and mig for 34 years. I just recently bought my first TIG welding machine: a Miller 330A/BP. To many this probably seems like an antique, but to this tig newbie, it’s all brand new. I have downloaded the tig welding guide from Miller, and the Owner’s Manual. And I have gotten the tig calculator from Miller, and watched multiple YouTube videos. I know there are many machines with more adjustments and controls than this one, but I still don’t know how to do some basic settings. Is there anybody out there familiar with this old machine who could help shed some light on some of these settings?I think experience and practice will get me going on most of the settings, but the following four, I haven’t a clue how to use: start circuit switch (In or Out)? Start adjustment control (where do I set this, and when)? Hi frequency start or continuous (I know to have this off for SMAW). And hi frequency intensity control (where do I set this for what)?I know I’ll have more questions as I get underway, and if there’s a certain document or video that would help, I’m very eager to learn. Any help here would be appreciated. - JonSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:I've used one for many years - excellent machine.

(my avatar) 900 lbs of awesome

Start amperage on mine doesn't have a switch, I usually set it a little higher than the main current for stick.  It increases amps for 2/3 of a second on start up.For tig I usually set it lower, or the same as main amps.Tig steel, high freq to start.  Tig aluminum, high freq to continuous.Hi freq intensity controls the intensity of the high freq starting arc.  I set mine to max.On your big selector handle under the cover, the handle is closed for stick, open for tig. (it's to the left of the water and argon solenoids)Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:

Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave

I've used one for many years - excellent machine.

(my avatar) 900 lbs of awesome

Start amperage on mine doesn't have a switch, I usually set it a little higher than the main current for stick.  It increases amps for 2/3 of a second on start up.For tig I usually set it lower, or the same as main amps.Tig steel, high freq to start.  Tig aluminum, high freq to continuous.Hi freq intensity controls the intensity of the high freq starting arc.  I set mine to max.On your big selector handle under the cover, the handle is closed for stick, open for tig. (it's to the left of the water and argon solenoids)
Reply:Hi. I have been pondering your reply for a while, and it begs a few more questions: you say“Start amperage on mine doesn’t have a switch, I usually set it a little higher than the main current for stick. It increases amps for 2/3 second on start up” then you go on to say “for TIG I usually set it lower, or the same as main amps” what’s your take on this? Also, a little confusing because the start dial is not Labeled in amps, but rather a scale from 0 to 10. and is it usual to use this function for stick welding as well?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by ironwrx

Hi. I have been pondering your reply for a while, and it begs a few more questions: you say“Start amperage on mine doesn’t have a switch, I usually set it a little higher than the main current for stick. It increases amps for 2/3 second on start up” then you go on to say “for TIG I usually set it lower, or the same as main amps” what’s your take on this? Also, a little confusing because the start dial is not Labeled in amps, but rather a scale from 0 to 10. and is it usual to use this function for stick welding as well?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:Thank you MinnesotaDaveSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave

Right, on mine the start current dial is always part of the circuit.  The start dial and the main current on mine are both 0 - 10.The numbers are just based on the amp range you set it for: 0 being the lowest and 10 the highest of that range.  The rest are evenly spaced between.For stick I generally set it a little higher as a hot start feature.For tig steel if using a button, I set it lower so it comes on a little lower, then goes to full power.For tig aluminum, I often set it high enough that it starts with enough amps to straighten out the arc. You will find that the arc often wanders all over when starting at low amps and then "straightens out" when the amps are high enough.After the arc is started and welding right, you can still lower the amps below that start setting with your foot control without the wandering arc.Transformer machines have a learning curve that isn't needed with an inverter - but they weld just fine


Reply:I have the same welder. Yours looks in much better shape. That is a good hack for the amps on each range. Previous owners of mine scratched rod thicknesses around the dial. Like your method better.
Reply:

Originally Posted by wildcatfan

I have the same welder. Yours looks in much better shape. That is a good hack for the amps on each range. Previous owners of mine scratched rod thicknesses around the dial. Like your method better.
Reply:Wisdom? Not from me, many here such as Dave and Zapster are more familiar with these millers/ clones.i bought mine from a machine shop that was going to scrap it. Used mostly for stick on steel and stainless. Learning very slowly tig, I will say that it is a much better machine than i am a welder. No way i'm capable of maxing out its capabilities.