Need a Bigger Hammer

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  We thought I'd pull the cylinder yesterday, have her hold the inside retaining ring pliers, while I slammed the rod out of the cylinder.  This is the last of 4 that needed new seals........been putting it off for a few months.Gland wouldn't budge.  We tried all day Saturday

So now it's no choice but to cobble together something that's a bit heavier to do the job.  A small sledge won't budge the thing.


  The 3/16 lap joints were done at the usual 85amps for 3/32 7018

  The 3/8 flat stock required more amps.  I'm running at 95amps.  It's borderline.......sometimes you get quite a bit of spatter at the higher amps, but I needed the heat for the thicker metal.


Reply:This thingy will hold the base end of the hydraulic cylinder.  It's a bit more robust than holding it in the vise.  And, it has less play.  The vise sort of allows the cylinder to move a bit as you use a slide hammer, or sledge hammer.

  Just hooks on the end of the table top.  Not real high tech.  Long piece of channel just gives added resistance to keep the ears from wanting to tip forward.Throw together the slightly heavier slide hammer tomorrow.
Reply:No work today, except for a bit of machining.  The wind has been running above 30mph all day.  I shut down when it's this high.  Fire danger is too doggone high.
Reply:You do nice work. Your stick welds look like mig welds
Reply:Thanks, that was extremely nice to say.

  This is the end of the tool that will attach to the cylinder rod eye.  I always sight along the pin,, and anything that should line up with the pin, in this case..........the bottom piece of flat stock.  If the air gaps are uniform from all angles, as you look at them........you got it pretty close to being square.

  Doggone end mill was just a bit short, and had to flip it over to complete the slot.

  Got in a hurry, and just eyeballed the center of the stock.......My eyes ain't what they used to be


  (If you don't tell anybody, I won't

)

  The other end is threaded so that it will take two nuts.  I figure two of them ought to take the impact without boogering up the threads.  It's just 1018 cold roll, not tool steel.

  If this doggone thing won't pull that cylinder gland out, nothing will

  Need to weld it up, and make a striker plate for the hub, and the rod.Alright, alright, go ahead and laugh


Reply:Welded the shaft to the fork thingy, and made sure that the pin fit properly after welding.  I alternated passes on one side, the backside..................  This kept the plate from pulling enough to make the pin not line up.  Always try to equalize heat if you can.

The striker plate is just a piece of 3/8 that slides onto the shaft.  I tightened the nuts against each other as hard as I could, so that the thread/nut would have no play.  This was done after the hub was slid onto the shaft.


  She's ready to go.  The cylinder base is attached to the jig, and now it's time for the two of us (K'kins is a trooper) to try to get the damn gland out of the cylinder bore.  I think it took about half a dozen blows.  I held the snap ring open while she banged away.  She doesn't do well with the snap ring pliers..........the ring is incredibly hard to compress.


  We banged away on this stupid thing for almost a day before I decided to make the big slide hammer,, and it wouldn't budge.  The power of physics is amazing.Last edited by farmersammm; 03-31-2021 at 11:18 PM.Reason: added to last sentence
Reply:As a matter of fact.......physics can be a bit too powerful

  All that banging moved the entire table, and it's a fairly heavy table

The final few inches was actually the most difficult.  The iron compression ring on the piston had to bull its way through the rust ridge that initially prevented the gland from moving.  

  We next proceeded to get the Oliver stuck in the mud, and high centered on the drawbar.  So now the Allis has to be up and running by late morning so's I can go pull the Oliver out


Reply:Brake rotors make good slide hammers

Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

So now the Allis has to be up and running by late morning so's I can go pull the Oliver out


Reply:To give you an idea of how much force is generated...........................

  It's not excessive wear, but it's an indicator of just how hard that hub hits the striker plate.If I run into a tougher pulling job I'll just get a bigger hub


Reply:A little late now but once you get the gland out if you push the piston back in you can get in there with scothbrite to clean the rust and any burrs away, making it easier to remove the piston. Out of curiosity, wouldn't it have been easier to remove the gland and rod in place after blocking up the loader?
Reply:Rust Ridge?  Isn't that the town that Sheriff Bart saved?Last edited by Zimm; 04-01-2021 at 08:22 AM.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Zimm

Rust Ridge?  Isn't that the town that Sheriff Bart saved?
Reply:Shyteload of dimes didn't help the bad guys much.
Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

A little late now but once you get the gland out if you push the piston back in you can get in there with scothbrite to clean the rust and any burrs away, making it easier to remove the piston. Out of curiosity, wouldn't it have been easier to remove the gland and rod in place after blocking up the loader?
Reply:sammm, you are the master of invention with that hammer rig.  You missed your calling.
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

The gland is pushed out by the piston.  You can't remove it separately.  Total PITA.BTW..............I truly appreciate your advice on using Scotchbrite.  Normally I use a small wire brush to get the rust out of the grooves on the gland/piston/cylinder.  Takes forever.  I tried the Scotchbrite, and it was a 5 minute job

  Used mineral spirits, and the air gun to remove any residual abrasive from the pad.  Never woulda thought of this.  I probably only do a cylinder maybe once every 3yrs.
Reply:Hi,       Being a retired Marine Engineer, been there done that, rebuilding large hydraulic rams and never learned to like it!PIA to me on all fronts and if something is not correctly installed...BIG MESS!Impressed with your tool making and willingness to do the job, I know it's not simple, to do correctly!Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DCThermal Arc 185 TSW Stick/Tig AC/DCCebora 175 MIGHypertherm PowerMax 45 Plasma Cutter
Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

I'm well aware of that. What im saying is push out the gland pull it towards the eye on the end then push the piston back to get in there to clean. Doesn't matter now since it's apart and you thrive to make things as complicated and difficult as possible.🤣
Reply:Anyways.............THANKS GUYS for the compliments.  Always a nice thing.Sometimes I get a bit of flak for the amount of tools I own, including the machine tools.  Ya gotta remember,, this really isn't a hobby.  We run a business here.  Raising, and selling cattle, sometimes selling surplus hay.  Given the tight margins, DIY is about the only way to survive, given the tight margins.I do think al lot of you guys are correct in saying that the delays caused by the DIY process are sometimes outweighed by the cost of buying new stuff.  It's something I'm just stubborn about I guess............but at the end of the day, I still have more money in my back pocket.  We mostly always manage to work around the delays, unless they're absolutely catastrophic.It's all put together now,, so I imagine I'll toddle out to the Oliver, and try to get it out of the mud rut.
Reply:It most likely is the snap ring groove causing the problems. Never hurts to hose it down with penatrant . I much prefer to work with a threaded gland altho those can be insanely difficult to get loose. Might be a good idea to put a heavy silicone bead around that snap ring area to prevent water intrusion.
Reply:

  Now, onto the next issue


  She's high centered on the drawbar.  Now that the Uranus Model 8D loader is back in operation, first order of bizz is to get the hay off the back of the tractor.

  It was another bad real wet Winter this year.  This area is mostly bottomless clay, and it gets a lot of traffic.  This ground is like soup when wet, and dries to concrete when it warms up.The real issue is that the Allis is generally used for feeding, AND IT'S A WIDER TRACK TRACTOR.

  The left side is in the rut.

  But, because the track is narrow on this tractor, the right side is above the rut, which forced the rear of the tractor down, and high centered it

  (That's ringworm BTW, it clears up after a few months.  It seems to be prevalent this year in the area, not just our calves)Just a matter of digging down enough to get a clevis on the drawbar, then tow it out backwards.  Need to keep the chain at ground level so not to bend the drawbar, or put too much strain on the underside of the transmission (which is where the other end of the drawbar is anchored).  Or, I might just form a yoke with chain around the axles, and do it that way.  I'm leaning towards chaining the axle..........safer bet.What we do when this kind of rutting occurs, is cut cedar trees, and use the trunks to fill the ruts, then blade the dirt back over the tree trunks.  Next time it rains, the whole mess packs down, and forms a nice firm surface.  No point in buying gravel to fill the ruts, or fill dirt.  It just keeps disappearing every time we get a couple of inches of rain, and have to run on the area.
Reply:Can't help with the stuck tractor or filling the ruts but can offer a slightly different way to disassemble the hydraulic cylinder. Instead of pulling the gland out, collapse the retaining ring and push the gland deeper into the cylinder. Once the groove is visible stop, clean the groove and interior surface that has just been exposed. Machine a ring, can be out of many types of material, steel, pvc or similar that is the same od as the groove od and same id as the barrel. Split the ring with a scarf cut (at an angle). Insert the ring into the snap ring groove. Pull rod and gland assembly out.Mike
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm


  Now, onto the next issue


  She's high centered on the drawbar.  Now that the Uranus Model 8D loader is back in operation, first order of bizz is to get the hay off the back of the tractor.

  It was another bad real wet Winter this year.  This area is mostly bottomless clay, and it gets a lot of traffic.  This ground is like soup when wet, and dries to concrete when it warms up.The real issue is that the Allis is generally used for feeding, AND IT'S A WIDER TRACK TRACTOR.

  The left side is in the rut.

  But, because the track is narrow on this tractor, the right side is above the rut, which forced the rear of the tractor down, and high centered it

  (That's ringworm BTW, it clears up after a few months.  It seems to be prevalent this year in the area, not just our calves)Just a matter of digging down enough to get a clevis on the drawbar, then tow it out backwards.  Need to keep the chain at ground level so not to bend the drawbar, or put too much strain on the underside of the transmission (which is where the other end of the drawbar is anchored).  Or, I might just form a yoke with chain around the axles, and do it that way.  I'm leaning towards chaining the axle..........safer bet.What we do when this kind of rutting occurs, is cut cedar trees, and use the trunks to fill the ruts, then blade the dirt back over the tree trunks.  Next time it rains, the whole mess packs down, and forms a nice firm surface.  No point in buying gravel to fill the ruts, or fill dirt.  It just keeps disappearing every time we get a couple of inches of rain, and have to run on the area.
Reply:Sam...keep doin what you do cowboy, its always intresting watchin you come up with a solution on your own from the seat of your pants. Just got to say I admire your self sufficiencyUp north in muskeg country we used corduroy to make roads and horse trails.Its basically a log road, lay the logs 90 degrees across cover with the branches then gravel.
Reply:

Pic stolen from the netLincoln 350mpmiller regencymiller syncro wave 300
Reply:

Originally Posted by bcguide

Up north in muskeg country we used corduroy to make roads and horse trails.Its basically a log road, lay the logs 90 degrees across cover with the branches then gravel.
Reply:

Originally Posted by farmersammm

Anyways.............THANKS GUYS for the compliments.  Always a nice thing.Sometimes I get a bit of flak for the amount of tools I own, including the machine tools.  Ya gotta remember,, this really isn't a hobby.  We run a business here.  Raising, and selling cattle, sometimes selling surplus hay.  Given the tight margins, DIY is about the only way to survive, given the tight margins.I do think al lot of you guys are correct in saying that the delays caused by the DIY process are sometimes outweighed by the cost of buying new stuff.  It's something I'm just stubborn about I guess............but at the end of the day, I still have more money in my back pocket.  We mostly always manage to work around the delays, unless they're absolutely catastrophic.It's all put together now,, so I imagine I'll toddle out to the Oliver, and try to get it out of the mud rut.