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Does anyone happen to know the "Length", "Width", "Heigth" and "weight" of a Lincoln sa 200 Junior; VF4 Wisconsin engine - Discontinued Manual "IM119"even rough estimates? Thanks
Reply:Dimensions as taken at 74 degrees Fahrenheit:H - 34" base to top of lift bail, which bail protrudes @ 3" above hood.L - 44" flywheel cover to "torpedo" endW - 22-3/64" outside of enclosureWeight - 443 lbs (Alfred's guesstimate)Good Luck
Reply:Oh wow Thankyou so very much, I really needed this info!
Reply:Think the actual weight is about 625lbs. Im rebuilding one peice by piece. Engine block;350lbs, Coils/Shroud;95, Armature core;60, Armature cover;120. I weighed all of them lol. Not including the headtops, or exhaust manifolds or anything.
Reply:how far are you into rebuild ? im part way into my 1949 sa-200 junior finding parts is time consuming . finally have all the sheet metal , selector switch , and rheostat . love to see any pics u have of junior
Reply:
Originally Posted by Goodolboy
Think the actual weight is about 625lbs. Im rebuilding one peice by piece. Engine block;350lbs. . .
Reply:If anyone needs any help with one of these machines let me know. I came to know quite abit when rebuilding this antique. Any feedback on these machines guys??? I welded with mine for about a day then tore it down and sent the engine off for rebuild. Figured since it ran on 3 cyl when i got it (one was complete toast) and welded as smooth as it did. Maybe was worth it....?
Reply:http://www.forestryforum.com/board/i...html#msg905254Lincoln 200 ampere special 1946.Wisconsin VF4 Aircooled, Right?? That's a link to another board with pictures of my engine on it. Not the bare block with the cyl casing also. But i promise you atleast mine is, every bit of 350lbs. two men can barley lift this, (as i brought it in my house, lol) You know anything about them being reliable?
Reply:
Originally Posted by yankeewelder
how far are you into rebuild ? im part way into my 1949 sa-200 junior finding parts is time consuming . finally have all the sheet metal , selector switch , and rheostat . love to see any pics u have of junior
Reply:About 35%, Gotta get a bearing for the armature core. And then the rest would take about 2-3 hours.
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Reply:how hard is it to seperate the gen housing from engine ? what did it cost to rebuild engine ?
Reply:
Originally Posted by yankeewelder
how hard is it to seperate the gen housing from engine ? what did it cost to rebuild engine ?
Reply:Just have a machinist price you ... U can buy all the internal engine parts from a guy on ebay. He sells head gaskets hit him a PM. Pistons, Rings, and everything for like i think it was 210, But my machinist got them a lil cheaper. so... But id have the crank turned and those babbit rods resized. I almost guarantee if you took the oil pan off atleast one would have excessive play. And the valve guides ect looked at.Last edited by Goodolboy; 11-06-2012 at 06:10 PM.
Reply:made some progress - hard to find time to work on it
Reply:Sorry for blowing up the thread. But if i were you... Id look at the pistons before you make a decision. engine may have quite a few rods left. Unless you want the same thing i do. A mint condition antique welding machine. these machine draw ALOT of attention. Only few people know about these... I know for a fact, The wisconsin VF4 engine in the machine price can range anywhere from 2-4k restored. These machines were designed to be rebuilt. Not thrown away!!!!Last edited by Goodolboy; 11-06-2012 at 06:21 PM.
Reply:Niice work!!! Mine is alittle different from yours, Mine does not have a reostat.. Rather 3 different poles than selector. (Same thing) and idle control "is" In fact the fine tune, Not with a dial. But same gen. The bearing is infront of the brushes brotha Good luck keep me posted!!!!!
Reply:
Originally Posted by yankeewelder
made some progress - hard to find time to work on it
Reply:
Originally Posted by Goodolboy
Niice work!!! Mine is alittle different from yours, Mine does not have a reostat.. Rather 3 different poles than selector. (Same thing) and idle control "is" In fact the fine tune, Not with a dial. But same gen. The bearing is infront of the brushes brotha Good luck keep me posted!!!!!
Reply:Alright sir. I believe ive spoken to you before on Youtube brotha. Sounds like a bad seal somewhere. Putting the engine under stress...These little engines used to run day in and day out. Gotta be short about to go to work.Ill keep my eye on mine. It burned 7018 smooth as silk. I cranked it up with 6010 i did notice low voltage. But shoot i was using 6010 basicly as arc goudger lolol And it would cut 1/4 pipe. lolo Oh and did you put synthetic oil in it???I know if a engine has never had syn... and if it was a weak seal it WILL leak. Even if it didnt before.Last edited by Goodolboy; 11-07-2012 at 06:38 AM.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Thorton
Hey Goodolboy, I'm still stuck outta town here., The last time I used my 47' was just the other day, and I had a friend over, and I told him the way to adjust the amperage, and I said "here you go, here's the stinger, figure it out for yourself" so he had to figure out if the electrode he was burning was at the proper amperage. To my surprise, he found the exact amperage and was practicing with the machine. Now, I had a little problem with the machine - I have to address it when I get back. I was using my 305G to power all the lights, and was tacking up some pipe, and I said "here! try this! for running a bead." Now, he liked the 305G over my 47', which is no big deal because I took the 47' then and put in a stainless root pass. I also found out that the fuel tank on completely full will only last for literally like 4 or 5 hours that he was over. When to my surprise that the machine shut down - I never expected it nor even think about it that it would run out of fuel - but it did! I noticed that it was covered in oil on various parts of the engine. So, I don't know if there is maybe a massive leak, or the seals are dried up, or how long the machine was sitting and maybe this or that happened to it - I haven't even had a chance to turn it on. I don't even know if I went over the duty cycle - but all I did with it was put in a stainless root pass, and then I put a 3 pass cap of 309L, 2209 Duplex & 118 Inconel ( I think I have 118, I can't remember what exactly the ones I have)Now, I know it doesn't like 6010 very much, because I noticed that the voltage seems to drop and the machine acts really funny as if it is surging. However, it will run 7018 fine and effortlessly. The reason why I say that I was welding with 309L, 2209 duplex & 118 Inconel filler metal and brought up that the machine had oil all over itself - I wonder if the machine was able to run the electrodes but internally didn't like burning them, to cause the machine some distress. Anyways, when yours is running, just watch it for a bit and see how it reacts to different electrodes.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Goodolboy
Alright sir. I believe ive spoken to you before on Youtube brotha. Sounds like a bad seal somewhere. Putting the engine under stress...These little engines used to run day in and day out. Gotta be short about to go to work.Ill keep my eye on mine. It burned 7018 smooth as silk. I cranked it up with 6010 i did notice low voltage. But shoot i was using 6010 basicly as arc goudger lolol And it would cut 1/4 pipe. lolo Oh and did you put synthetic oil in it???I know if a engine has never had syn... and if it was a weak seal it WILL leak. Even if it didnt before.
Reply:where u located goodolboy ? im in noth central ohio
Reply:
Originally Posted by yankeewelder
where u located goodolboy ? im in noth central ohio
Reply:
Originally Posted by Thorton
Well, I have a conspiracy theory that I'm entertaining that the repair shop does little things to the machine so that it will break down, and you'll have to go back to them to fix.
I'm trying to be really careful with it; I let these machines warm up for quite a while before I start welding with them. Not too sure what oil the repair shop put in - they had an experienced mechanic do the work, but costly! The other day I was charged $140/hr just to get 2 machines calibrated in all of 20 mins a machine, and fix 2 wires on the 67'.. $490.00 ( can you do this today? means lets charge short term rate and have an apprentice work on it - come back at 1) That 6010 electrode is the only electrode it did not like. It had absolutely no problem tig welding, no problem running electrodes like stainless, Duplex & inconel but 6010, It acts like the machine is in a higher gear and has a lower fine current setting; quite often the electrode will start popping & extinguishing itself out. I'm thinking maybe for a 1/8th 6010 electrode, maybe using the very top peg, and run at a higher idle, rather than the middle peg and at a medium idle. I've been thinking about the machine ever since I had to go out of town here, with the problem I had with it of the oil. Haha stressed out Machine; lol the previous owner probably bonked the machine on the forehead with a club, grunting at it like "you weld now!" whereas, in my hands, it probably has never had someone come up to it like "hey! how are you doing today?" *big hug* "let me introduce you to my other machines, this one is my 56', this one is ..." my 3000 pound sae300 will protect it!
Reply:Almost done assembling mine. Will try to post a video on youtube or something once i get the bugs worked out.
Originally Posted by Goodolboy
Almost done assembling mine. Will try to post a video on youtube or something once i get the bugs worked out.
Reply:Yeah been building it in my bedroom. About to move it outside in a few hours and fire it up. Gotta let it break in and stuff before i put it under a real load.
Reply:I've noticed in passing that the machine runs 7018 electrodes with somewhat of a doughy arc - kinda where you throw the dough onto a counter and you gotta Knead it so that it flattens out and widens; it's very sensitive to changes - I've noticed for walking the cup for stainless, I could be rather sloppy with my 56 shorthood and yet the puddle would still widen out, wash out, wet from the voltage yet solidifies quickly and make a respectable looking cap pass - but this specific machine, you just need to be a little bit more contentious to help it wash out. I've tried giving a little bit of arc length, so that the puddle would widen, wash out and be flat, but it always seems to weld as if you have an extremely tight arc length, where the 7018 can't fully breathe so it just produces a narrow bead. It is really great for practicing on because you gotta be more controlled to make really nice looking welds46 sae30047 sa200 w/Wisconsin VF451 shorthood56 shorthood56 shorthood68 redface69 redface07 ranger 305G13 sae300Inconel/Hastelloy SS Duplex Chrome/Carbon Tig F3Downhand STT/RMD F3F4 B Pressure
Reply:I hear ya... Hopefully mine can prove you wrong!!!!!! LOLOLIve got mine DONE. The welding part of it is Hot and ready to go. The engine ...... Is givin me ****. Im havin a hard time Timing the ignition. Its got a Mag with a gear. Thers a procedure on timing the VF4 With marks corresponding with the flywheel and mag gears. But my flywheel shroud is damaged so i cannot see the preexisting marks to align it with....... I timed it 6 different ways. And moved wires around all day until my battery went dead trying to start it...... the brushes are making very pretty blue sparks as it turns when its halfass running...... Its killin me to find out. I know when mine was runnin horrible before rebuild.... 7018 had NOO spatter. 6010 was like an arch goudger. turned up. I loved 7018 with it. sounds like you may need to crank it up a bit. Try addin 20 amps. It might open your puddle up some. The machine produces low voltage. Or the coils may need rebaked and cleaned ect. (Generator shop that rebuilds starters or gens do that.)
Reply:hey Goodolboy - would like to see more pics of the gen housing being removed thinking about tackling that myself save some cash .do you know what the amature and shunt coils are supposed to ohm at ? we have several motor rewind shops in north central ohio gonna send it to be dipped and baked
Reply:
Originally Posted by yankeewelder
hey Goodolboy - would like to see more pics of the gen housing being removed thinking about tackling that myself save some cash .do you know what the amature and shunt coils are supposed to ohm at ? we have several motor rewind shops in north central ohio gonna send it to be dipped and baked
Reply:
Originally Posted by Goodolboy
Well bud i already assembled it. Tried to let you know in advance.... Its really easy. It will take 2 people. First, Unbolt your brushes. Let them hang, But inspect the wires make sure they arent weak. Or may need tapped up. Don't lose the little insulator washers. Then Remove the grease zert cap thing on the very front. Those two little screws, It will reveal the pressed bearing. After you have removed the 4 heavy bolts from the housing from the shunt coil housing, Have someone with a few wedges make a good 1/4 in gap between the two housings. Have him keep it in a bind... Then you my friend with a hammer and chisel or punch try tapping on the 204 bearing until it gives. You will wanna replace the 7 dollar bearing anyway.. It will all slide off at once. Be carefull with your brushes. And unless you plan on rebuilding the engine i sugggest leaving the flex plate that was pressed on the crank 70 years ago alone. It took me a week to get mine straight and balanced again. It bends easy. Good luck. Id sure like to have some help on timing the VF4... With the geared mag. Giving me hell......
Reply:Thanks everyone. I ended up buying a book off Ebay for the engine for like 6 bucks lol. I had the order wrong on the Magneto. And my carb had a bad needle in seat. Having it rebuilt now, And retiming it soon. Its gonna be a beast!!! I think the welder would be great for hard surfacing stuff.. Smooth as butter with 7018.
Reply:
Originally Posted by Goodolboy
Not that bad. Remove the fuel tank, ect ect. Use common sense for that. Then get down to the housing.. It has a 204 bearing under the front housing. Jus unbolt it and tap the bearing apart from armature "Core" . The cover is HEAVY. Be ready.. and by cover i mean the 7/8'' thick pipe with your brushes and copper windings.... the flex plate thats pressed on the crank was EXTREMELY hard to remove, A 2 ton jaw puller. And i suggest using a oxy torch to heat it up... Otherwise hope you can straighten it when its all bent up.lol (Happend to me). It cost me 610 for all that work but i knew the machinist. Wisconsin quoted the same type rebuild. for about 2grand. Im still ****ing with it now. Make sure you take pics of the inside cover where the coils are before you start taking apart wires....And if you can post some on here for me. LoL I forgot that too. Make sure you take GOOD care of all the parts you take off. And label them, along with bolts in a coffee jug or something.... U cant jus buy those parts anymore. If u fk one up you'll have to pay a machinist to make one custom. $$$$$ |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:17:03