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New Stabilizer Jack for Trailer

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发表于 2021-9-1 23:16:07 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式
I have worked with my friend and customer, Connie, for 25 years for the same company.  Over the years I have done a bunch of welding jobs for her. She retired two years ago and I retired last year. The original stabilizer jacks on her trailer were bent and didn’t work freely, but were welded to the trailer, so the task was to cut off the old ones and to install new ones.  The first two pictures show the trailer.1. Backing trailer into my driveway

2. Side view of trailer

I set up my 10’ x 10’ pop up fly to make some shade to work in.3. Back view of trailer

The next two pictures show the old right hand stabilizer jack.4. Corner of trailer

5. Old stabilizer

Smith Oxyacetylene TorchMiller Dynasty 200DXLincoln SP-250 MIG WelderClausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe16" DuAll Saw15" Drill Press7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw20 Ton Arbor Press BridgeportLincoln LE  31 MP & Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:I taped some corrugated cardboard to the trailer to protect it from sparks and then cut off the old stabilizer jack with an oxyacetylene torch.  Next, I ground the base of the stabilizer with a right-angle grinder to straighten out the cut. 6. Old stabilizer cut off

Here are two pictures of the old stabilizer. In picture #8 you can see the bent flange of the old stabilizer on the bottom of the picture.7. Side view of old stabilizer

8. Front view of old stabilizer

The floor of trailer is attached to the tubular frame by 5/16” threaded rods. Unfortunately, one of these threaded rods was right where the new stabilizer jack had to go. The trailer was built in 1978 so there was no hope of unthreading the nuts from the bottom of the threaded rods without twisting off the threaded rod, even after wire brushing the threads and using Kroil penetrating oil. Once I twisted off the threaded rod, I found that the top of the threaded rod was nicked down due to corrosion. Below is a picture of the old threaded rod that I snapped off as well as the replacement threaded rod.9. Old tie down stud

10. new tie down stud

Smith Oxyacetylene TorchMiller Dynasty 200DXLincoln SP-250 MIG WelderClausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe16" DuAll Saw15" Drill Press7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw20 Ton Arbor Press BridgeportLincoln LE  31 MP & Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:I made the new top of the new tie down (support) by tapping a block of ½” steel, which I glued to the floor of the trailer with E6000 glue. I installed the threaded rod through the floor and the holes in the tubular frame of the trailer, so that the threaded rod protruded through the tubular frame of the trailer.11. Support in floor of trailer

Next, I clamped the new stabilizer jack to the frame of the trailer.12. New stabilizer clamped in position

I bolted down the front of the stabilizer to the new tie down threaded rod, which protruded from the bottom of the frame.13. Front of new stabilizer attachment

14. Close up of front stabilizer attachment

The stabilizer kit came with self-drilling and tapping sheet metal screws, but I didn’t use them because I thought that the 1/8” wall of the rectangular tubing of the frame was too thick for these fasteners. Instead, I drilled and tapped the frame for ¼”-28 screws, which are shown in the following picture.15. Rear of new stabilizer attachment

Smith Oxyacetylene TorchMiller Dynasty 200DXLincoln SP-250 MIG WelderClausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe16" DuAll Saw15" Drill Press7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw20 Ton Arbor Press BridgeportLincoln LE  31 MP & Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:I masked the back of the trailer with masking paper and tape so that I could paint the tubing of the trailer, without getting overspray on the trailer. Last but not lease are two pictures of the stabilizer all installed.16. stabilizer jack in use

17. All Done

-Don
Smith Oxyacetylene TorchMiller Dynasty 200DXLincoln SP-250 MIG WelderClausing/Coldchester 15" Lathe16" DuAll Saw15" Drill Press7" x 9" Swivel Head Horizontal Band Saw20 Ton Arbor Press BridgeportLincoln LE  31 MP & Lincoln 210 MP
Reply:Looks good, but what kind of feet or pads are at the end of the stab jacks to prevent it from sinking in soft ground or hot asphalt?Millermatic 252 MIGMiller Dynasty 200DX TIGMiller Spectrum 625 PlasmaAltas 12x36 Metal LatheBridgeport Milling Machinewww.psacustomcreations.com
Reply:Now go buy a 3/8" hex x 3'8"male socket adapter along with the proper size socket and take your cordless drill with you.Ol' Stonebreaker  "Experience is the name everyone gives to their mistakes"Hobart G-213 portableMiller 175 migMiller thunderbolt ac/dc stick Victor O/A setupMakita chop saw
Reply:

Originally Posted by psacustomcreations

Looks good, but what kind of feet or pads are at the end of the stab jacks to prevent it from sinking in soft ground or hot asphalt?
Reply:

Originally Posted by mla2ofus

Now go buy a 3/8" hex x 3'8"male socket adapter along with the proper size socket and take your cordless drill with you.
Reply:Much better jacks than what was there, nicely done

Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:

Originally Posted by Don52

Good point.  My dad used to keep square plywood plates for that purpose.-Don
Reply:

Originally Posted by MinnesotaDave

Much better jacks than what was there, nicely done


Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

Best thing I found is cut offs from the laminated beams often used for floor joists.
Reply:Microlams, 2x10 or 2x,12 conventional lumber works but it tends to split and or curl up. The laminated beams hold there shape really well.
Reply:

Originally Posted by M J D

Microlams, 2x10 or 2x,12 conventional lumber works but it tends to split and or curl up. The laminated beams hold there shape really well.
Reply:That old Craftsman 1/2" drill in picture #12...I was digging through some cabinets of old tools this morning and found the one I bought circa 1985. Funny, I'm pretty confident that it's burnt up, but never got rid of it. For a lot of those 37 years that have passed, that thing made a lot of projects possible...maybe that's the thing that makes me hold on to it. Deep thoughts, lol.Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Reply:

Originally Posted by mobilus

That old Craftsman 1/2" drill in picture #12...I was digging through some cabinets of old tools this morning and found the one I bought circa 1985. Funny, I'm pretty confident that it's burnt up, but never got rid of it. For a lot of those 37 years that have passed, that thing made a lot of projects possible...maybe that's the thing that makes me hold on to it. Deep thoughts, lol.Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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