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This transmission has a machined surface that is supposed to seal against a crush washer on the threaded fitting but there is a small imperfection on the machined surface and even with a new fitting and a new crush washer torqued to the proper value (40NM) it still leaks. It is impossible to get in there to do any machining. My thoughts are to put a thin layer of JB Weld on the crush washer or use some Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV Gasket Maker. https://www.permatex.com/products/ga...-gasket-maker/ Keeping the surface clean and dry for curing is not a problem. Any thoughts?
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Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:I could also put some of this on the copper washer: https://www.permatex.com/products/ga.../?locale=en_us Another thought is a Dowty washerLast edited by bigb; 12-16-2020 at 09:09 PM.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:I'd go with the bonded washer(dowty washer) I use them for all my problem areas on older machines... I got several kits of them off ebay for fairly cheap.. well considering what the deere dealer wants for one
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
...It is impossible to get in there to do any machining. My thoughts are to put a thin layer of JB Weld on the crush washer or use some Permatex Automatic Transmission RTV Gasket Maker...Any thoughts?
Reply:I can barely get my hand in there to thread in the fitting then there's the issue of the particles from the aluminum getting into the transmission, the "proper" fix is to remove the transmission and empty out the case, machine or replace case, re-assemble transmission, re-install in vehicle. Not going to happen. ronsil the bonded washer sounded like a good plan however I have spent all morning locating one that would work with transmission fluid at temps over 250 and while I found the appropriate one (Parker Lock-O-Seals) with the appropriate sealing material I ran into nothing but dead ends for a consumer to actually buy any. I talked to a guy who runs a Sprinter shop in Denver and he says to use Permatex Lock+Seal so will give that a try. I ordered the Lock+Seal along with the activator/surface prep which is recommended for aluminum.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
I can barely get my hand in there to thread in the fitting then there's the issue of the particles from the aluminum getting into the transmission, the "proper" fix is to remove the transmission and empty out the case, machine or replace case, re-assemble transmission, re-install in vehicle. Not going to happen. ronsil the bonded washer sounded like a good plan however I have spent all morning locating one that would work with transmission fluid at temps over 250 and while I found the appropriate one (Parker Lock-O-Seals) with the appropriate sealing material I ran into nothing but dead ends for a consumer to actually buy any. I talked to a guy who runs a Sprinter shop in Denver and he says to use Permatex Lock+Seal so will give that a try. I ordered the Lock+Seal along with the activator/surface prep which is recommended for aluminum.
Reply:I was gonna ask the same question... looks like a 3/8 would go around the threads... is that quarter inch hardline? oh wait... probably metric right
Reply:It measures 13.8mm or about 17/32" so 1/2" would be pretty tight and 9/16" would be loose by 1/32". Temperature wise I would expect it could see close to 300F far short periods.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
It measures 13.8mm or about 17/32" so 1/2" would be pretty tight and 9/16" would be loose by 1/32". Temperature wise I would expect it could see close to 300F far short periods.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
...I have spent all morning locating one...
Reply:I'm guessing this is on the side of the tranny case between the frame rail... and is probably the line to/from the oil cooler... as a side note on the ford trannies those lines do not go directly into a valve body or anything like that... so contamination would be minor as all returning fluid gets dumped to the pan before the filter would get it for the pump.
Reply:It's a 722.683 transmission in a Mercedes Sprinter, the fitting is actually up on the converter housing just forward of the pan, I had to finagle my phone in there to get the pic. The fitting is part #60 in the second pic. These transmissions are extremely sensitive to dirt/contamination.
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Last edited by bigb; 12-18-2020 at 08:33 AM.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:Slides over a 14mm drain plug perfectly (64-178). If you want PM me your address and I'll put a couple in the mail today.
Lincoln 350MPMillermatic 350PSyncrowave 2501969 SA200HTP Invertig 221
Reply:Sorry I was out all day, just sent you a PM. Thanks a lot for the help, this is great!Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
Sorry I was out all day, just sent you a PM. Thanks a lot for the help, this is great!
Reply:I have a drain plug on the Oliver that's leaked since I bought it 20 some years ago. The fix was immediate, and has never let me down. I wrapped the plug with Teflon tape, and it's fine. Just make sure to wind the tape in the opposite direction of thread engagement, and keep the tape from protruding past the thread into the oil pan. Leave a few threads unwrapped, and the tape will naturally tend to push towards the head of the plug as it's tightened.My drain plug is NPT, so it might work better with this fix than your shorter thread. But it's worth looking into.
Reply:I don't know about using tape on running threads...current plan is to use the Permatex Lock + Seal on the threads and one of Capt B's Dowty washers as soon as it arrives.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
I don't know about using tape on running threads...current plan is to use the Permatex Lock + Seal on the threads and one of Capt B's Dowty washers as soon as it arrives.
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
I can barely get my hand in there to thread in the fitting then there's the issue of the particles from the aluminum getting into the transmission, the "proper" fix is to remove the transmission and empty out the case, machine or replace case, re-assemble transmission, re-install in vehicle. Not going to happen. ronsil the bonded washer sounded like a good plan however I have spent all morning locating one that would work with transmission fluid at temps over 250 and while I found the appropriate one (Parker Lock-O-Seals) with the appropriate sealing material I ran into nothing but dead ends for a consumer to actually buy any. I talked to a guy who runs a Sprinter shop in Denver and he says to use Permatex Lock+Seal so will give that a try. I ordered the Lock+Seal along with the activator/surface prep which is recommended for aluminum.
Reply:
Originally Posted by William McCormick
I don't think you want to put thread lock on something like that. Parker Hanifin has suppliers all over you just have to find one of them. Sincerely, William McCormick
Reply:
Originally Posted by bigb
I don't know about using tape on running threads...current plan is to use the Permatex Lock + Seal on the threads and one of Capt B's Dowty washers as soon as it arrives.
Reply:BTW......from here, it looks like there's a crack in one of the valleys that runs off the "top" of the nut. Might just be the picture.Sealed the side of my 300cid motor last year with a swath of silicone where the side gasket covers the tappet access. No leaks, and a sight easier than taking it down to replace the gasket. Ton of crap on the side of the motor, and I didn't care to take it all off to replace a gasket that's gonna start leaking about a year after I replace it. It's a common problem with the 300.
Reply:502 fix post
Reply:
Originally Posted by ronsii
502 fix post
Reply:
Originally Posted by Capt B
How do you do that?
Originally Posted by farmersammm
You might want to look at the TDS on that stuff. "Removable with hand tools, and 450* localized heat"
Reply:Just to be clear, the screw in part is separate from the line and in fact is a new one. Once it is screwed into the housing the line snaps into it and is held in place by a spring clip. The white plastic collar pulls down and snaps over the spring clip to protect it.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car.
Reply:I didn't want to speak too soon but it looks like the operation was a success. With help from Capt B and Tex (Permatex that is) so far dry as a bone after two test drives.Miller Challenger 172Miller Thunderbolt AC/DC 225/150Miller Maxstar 150 STLVictor 100CVictor JourneymanOxweld OAHarris O/ASmith O/A little torchNo, that's not my car. |
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发表于 2021-9-1 23:14:40