Witch 110v Mig Welder???

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I'm looking to get a Mig Welder. I'm going to be building hangers and other suspension parts for lifting trucks, most parts wont be over 1/4. I only have 110v in the shop and do not really want to do a 220 since I dont own the shop. I was looking at the Hobart Handler 140, if I had a few pieces that were alittle over 1/4 but not more than 1/2, could I get it welded with the 110 welder, just with a few passes? Thanks for the help.
Reply:I think you could make a 110 welder and flux core work for most things, but I think everyone that I know that ever bought a 110 welder wishes they had went 220.  It seems that there is always something that comes along that a 110 welder just won't do well.  You may be surprised how inexpensively an electrician could fix you up a 220v outlet as long as there is a decent breaker box to work with and a few empty slots.  Have it mounted close to the breaker box to save money, then put a long cord on your machine.  Maybe your landlord would even take the cost off of your rent.  If this isn't possible, I would just find a 110 welder with the highest duty cycle and work with that. Of course, if you get good at this 4x4 fab stuff, it won't be long before people will be having you make all kinds of stuff for their rigs and not all of it will be out that light stuff.  Maybe by then you'll have you a nice shop with 480 three phase.
Reply:For the type of work that you're describing, using any of the 120VAC welders will be a pain in the ***.  I've used the MM135 a fair amount for similar work and found it to be quite difficult.  I built a trailer using an MM135 because it was all I had at the time.  I spent a lot of effort on prep and I still had to grind out and re-weld a few things as a result of poor penetration.  I ran the welder at its maximum capacity and came to an understanding about when it would give up.  Using an extension cord that was too long or too small a gauge would cause it to give up sooner.  While running a bead as hot as I could get it, the welder would eventually just start cold stubbing and refuse to keep a nice puddle going.  At that point, I'd simply have to stop and wait a few minutes to start again.  Note that I wasn't exceeding the duty cycle, the thermal switch never tripped, and the extension cords that I was using were rated for the current.  The welder just didn't like to do very thick stuff.-Heath
Reply:While running a bead as hot as I could get it, the welder would eventually just start cold stubbing and refuse to keep a nice puddle going. At that point, I'd simply have to stop and wait a few minutes to start again. Note that I wasn't exceeding the duty cycle, the thermal switch never tripped, and the extension cords that I was using were rated for the current. The welder just didn't like to do very thick stuff.
Reply:I wouldnt trust a little mig welder like that for 1/4", much less anything thicker. If you dont have the amps, it might look like a weld, but the first bump you drive over, its gonna snap.Melting steel takes heat, heat takes amps, and a decent amount of amps means 220, no two ways about it. Buy a buzzbox, stick weld em. Or save your money and buy a decent 200 amp or so mig welder.