Help Selecting a Welder

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Hi,I searched around for a little bit and couldn't find a similar situation.I am brand new to welding.  I read several books on it and understand the basic concepts of TIG, MIG, and Oxyacetalene.  I am looking to buy a welder on a limited budget (at or under $350).  Is there any decent welders that are in that price range.  The main things I want to use it for is for car body work, and just miscellanous stuff.  I need something that will be easily to learn (MIG?), but also have the capacity to make strong welds (for that amount of money).  Also, I need stuff you normally don't think of when starting out (helmets - any suggestions?)One more question: If I go the MIG route, about how much is the shieding gas?Thanks a lot for your timery.david
Reply:Go to Tool King.com and look around. They have some B grade Hobart reconditioned welders there. They have a 135 amp for $349.00 but for about $50.00 more they have a 175 amp Hobart. If you have access for 220 the 175 class would be a lot better for you. If you are wanting to mig weld look at spending another $125.00 or more for a bottle of mig gas (75/25),won't be a very large bottle. 40 cu. ft. or so. but it will last you for quite awhile depending on how much you are using the welder. If you are going to use flux core wire  you won't need the 75/25 but the cost of the solid wire is quite a bit more expensive.
Reply:Excellent advice from Gnewby.  Try that first.  Ditto on the recommendation to get the 240V welder unless you absolutely need the portability of a 120V unit.  But if budget is too tight, the 120V MIG will do body work, but NOT suspension work.If you get lucky, the reconditioned B-grade HH135 will be back in stock, but check out their Hobart selection, all at good prices:http://www.toolking.com/category.aspx?categoryID=323
Reply:Thanks for the quick replies.  1/4" steel is pretty thick!  But I'll probably find use for it though.    Just to make sure, Grade B means that there is scratches or scuffs on the exterior, right.  If so, I don't really care about that.  I'm pretty sure 220 is ran out to the garage, if not, the breaker box is only in the next room over.  I'm sure this thing is not going to be taken everywhere, but I like having the option to take it somewhere with 120v.Right now I am leaning towards the Hobart 175amp.Also, I really like the idea of the auto-darkening helmets, so I can just concentrate on welding (instead of juggling everything), especially starting out.  About how much do you expect to pay for a decent helmet?gnewby, when you said it cost $125 for a bottle of gas, do you mean the bottle itself, or the gas inside.  Seems kinda steep for gas.  (i.e. I know nitrous for cars, you have to pay out of the nose for a "DOT" approved bottle.  Is that the same case?)Thanks again,ry.davidLast edited by ry.david; 07-28-2006 at 08:43 AM.
Reply:$125 sounds right for a smaller bottle with its first fill. It will probably be $30-$40 to swap/refill.
Reply:Originally Posted by ry.david...Just to make sure, Grade B means that there is scratches or scuffs on the exterior, right.  ...Also, I really like the idea of the auto-darkening helmets, so I can just concentrate on welding (instead of juggling everything), especially starting out.  About how much do you expect to pay for a decent helmet?
Reply:I´ve seen CO2 bottles in Harbor Freight at 80 bucks if I remember correctly. However knowing HF reputation I don´t know if I would buy one from them.
Reply:Save your money and wait for a bigger welder. I did and a Miller 210 is much easier to learn and will do everything you need. Everyone I know that has bought the smaller machine has later sold it and bought a bigger unit.
Reply:You got a lot of good advice rather quickly here.    A few things you should realize some of which I will repeat here as has already been mentioned.First Save the cash or sell the wife but do buy a 220 volt unit.    The 110 volt unts do have their place but not for the only welder you may have for awhile.Big welders are more versatile there is no doubt about that, but every thing you suggest wanting to do can be done with a 175 amp model.     So i'd look at that first and only go bigger if you can convince your self that you will put it to work.    Plus portability is a very positive feature of a small MIG.If you are doing body work a MIG is required but it appears that you have already decided on this.     If you are not going to do the body work right away you can save some money up front by buying the welder and setting it up for flux core for utility work.    Won't do for auto body but flux core has its place and you can spread the purchase costs across several months or even years.Besides the helmet do consider heavy jackets and wedling gloves as a requirement.     Actually the jacket can be a heavy shirt that effectively blocks the radiation.     One thing that to consider is the need for glasses if your eyes are getting older.     Without good eyesite you will have trouble with welding and bifocals might not do it for you.Do look around for used welders.     Some people seem to have high opinions of their used stuff but if you look around deals can be found.Beyond the above there is a need for tools.    We all like to  buy such but for MIG welding you may benefit with access to a die grinder and right angle grinder.     Also equipment to shape and cut your stock is also important.Conisder also the people around you, welding curtains or self built partitions may be very usefull in keeping eyes away that should not be looking at the arc.     Kinda in the line of thinking of safety for the you part of you & me.    This does't have to be fancy either an old door set on edge can be a good screen.Dave
Reply:I think what Pitalplace is referring to is the disease you get after you start building and repairing things with a welder and accessories. You never have enough accessories, or else you are always hearing about something you would like to have or see something else you would like to have. The 175 class welder will work on everything you have mentioned you plan on welding. I started out with a 135 amp welder and later went to a 175 amp mig. It will do most everything I could ask of it and if something comes along I don't feel comfortable welding with it I grab the old trusty stick welder. Most of the time though it sets idle as the Mig gets used probably 90 % of the time. A 210 class would be great but you are talking a lot more money for one then you mentioned you plan on spending. P.S. I don't know what you could get a bottle for in your area of 75/25 but here locally I bought my 40 cu ft bottle for about $100.00 and by the time I paid for the 75/25 in it I had about $125.00 in it. It usually runs me about $26.00 to get it replaced. I own the bottle but when I take it in they exchange my empty bottle for a full one. Here locally they don't deal much with any of the 75/25 much bigger then the 40 cu ft. You can buy a larger bottle for not much more in a lot of places and the fill charge is not much more then the price for the 40 cu ft bottle. If you have a tractor supply close by or any place that has a Thunderbird bottle exchange you might check them out also.
Reply:Thanks so much for the quick replies and the excellent advice.  Personal expirences are way more valuable than reading in a book. I think I am pretty much sold on a 175amp unit, just need to sleep on it for a while and wait for some paychecks to roll in.  gnewby, I believe that "disease" applies to everything: cars, computers, etc. :-)  I don't mean to be closed-minded about a MIG-Welder, but everywhere I read/hear, it is the easiest to learn, albeit the associated disadvantages.  MAC702, The "Grade B" selection from ToolKing seem to be a great deal; I really don't care about "cosmetic blemishes".wizard, thanks for the misc (things you don't think about right away) tool suggestions.  I am only 16, so selling a wife isn't possible, and hopefully I won't need bifocals anytime soon. :-)  I am actually far-sighted, so anything within 2ft I can read great.  As far as tools, I plan to "collect" them as I get older, but for now, I can barrow my Dad's tools. I plan to learn welding by buying scrap steel at a local place we have here. Pretty cheap per pound, maybe weld plates together and then cut them back apart.  Is this really possible, or am I being optimistic?  Another option is a X-week course at the community ed building, but I figure I can use my own time for free. :-)Thanks again everyone.  I really appreciate all of your time.  I'll keep you updated (maybe in sometime you might see some pics of a 1968 Cadillac Deville)!ry.david
Reply:HeyAs for learning mig it is really easy ;there is one really important thing when you start off. I remember my first time welded was mig and my welds where really crap like small little blobs everywhere. Just remember to go slow and you will be fine. Don't race the welds or it will never work.