Car repair - what do you advise?

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What type of welder would you recomend for a car repair guy? Something that could weld metal sheets and rollbars into the chassis.I'm being very especific because im apractical guy...this is what i haveto do, so thats what i want youto have in mind when advising.I have very little experience, but i think i might buy a Mig.What doyou Pro's think?
Reply:http://www.weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=7174Drivesector Hobart Handler 140Hobart Handler 180Ready Welder 2Hobart Air Force 400Airco Stinger 225Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most."OZZY"
Reply:ALL OF THE ABOVEstick-mig-tig-o/a  one nice shopwhat ya gona d0?
Reply:Originally Posted by AticWhat type of welder would you recomend for a car repair guy? Something that could weld metal sheets and rollbars into the chassis.I'm being very especific because im apractical guy...this is what i haveto do, so thats what i want youto have in mind when advising.I have very little experience, but i think i might buy a Mig.What doyou Pro's think?
Reply:Liked the replys! Thanks u all.I have some rusty spots to replace and some reinforcements to do.Some of the reinforcemntes are made with 1,5mm sheet and some will be tubes (maybe 2-2,5mm). Need some bars between suspension towers and a very simple rollbar just in case.Thats the basics...
Reply:Atic,I would recommend a mig welder as the welder of choice for what you want to do, preferably a 220 volt unit.  The 110 volt units will do a pretty good job for the body stuff, and even for the roll bar joints it has plenty of oomph, but when you get to the joints where the roll cage mounts to the chassis, or suspension mounts, it really stretches the limits of the 110 volt units, unless you go to flux core wire, which really isn't desirable (unless you gotta make a repair outside, or have some dirty material...but clean is always better, even with flux core).  The 175-180 amp migs have plenty of amps to handle anything you're gonna do on a race car, as even the suspension mounts and main frame rails on purpose built chassis are no thicker than 3/16".  A 210 amp unit is not as portable, but gives a higher duty cycle, if your budget can handle the extra $$$ a 210 amp is a great way to go, it can handle anything up to 3/8" with wire and gas, that will take care of any welding you want to do on the trailer you are gonna end up with to haul that car with the roll cage, as pretty well anything on most trailers is 1/4" or so.  I myself have a Hobart Handler 180, but a Millermatic 175 or Lincoln SP175 would do just as well, as well as units from other companies like ESAB and HTP.  I would recommend staying away from the Harbor Freight and Campbell Hausfeld units.  About the cheapest brand I would consider is a Clarke.  They are somewhat lower in cost than the "big 3" brands (Miller, Lincoln, Hobart), but I know a couple guys that have them and they are satisfied with them, especially considering the $$$$ saved on them.  My "dream welder" right now is a Millermatic 210 or Hobart Ironman 210, I would like one with enough amps to handle 1/4" without double pass welding, or goint to flux core.  Hopefully one of 'em isn't too far in the future.  My Handler 180 has very little use on it (less than a spool of wire) so it should sell for enough to help out with paying for the bigger one.EdLast edited by BigEd36; 10-29-2006 at 06:11 PM.When the  drops the  stops!Check out my website at:  Tombstone 180 ACHandler 120Millermatic 210Powermax 380Harris & Victor torchesSawzallChop Saw
Reply:Thanks BigEd!Ps - loved the old school pic's