Tried a vertical up last night...oof

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and made a horrible mess.  So I come here to do some research.  First of all I did it wrong, I tried to just go strait up.  I burned through real quik, and made alot of buggars.  My setup is an Esab Digi pulse welder, .45 wire, Cant change that as I'm at work.  I tried 350 ipm wire speed and the voltage at 24.  I usualy run the voltage about 27-28.  The material was .179 mild steel, I tried a butt weld with a small 1/16" gap.  Any suggestions?  Setting changes, type of joint?  The thickest scrap I can get is 1/4".  I'm just fooling around to see if I can actually do it.  Thankslater
Reply:Off the top of my head, don't know how your Digi-pulse compares, but I had a "cold" pulsed MIG weld with 0.045" wire, 92 Ar/8 CO2, at about 350 ipm wire and around 20 volts.  Seems like this may be "cold" enough for vertical up.First I would reduce the voltage to cool things down.  This will increase the spatter, so you'll have to play with it, not too hot/not too much spatter.  If its still too hot, you'll have to try reducing the wire feed speed and again balancing the voltage.You'll have to use some kind of side-to-side weave pattern,  pausing at the toes to deposit metal and build up a shelf, then moving to the other side while the first side cools a bit.I'd use a about a 20 to 30 degree push angle on the gun.A "Tee" fillet joint should be the easiest to start with.  And thicker base metal obviously will handle more heat and help cool the puddle as you go.Your pulse settings, peak/background current, % peak time, and frequency will affect the arc concentration/stiffness.The gas mix will affect the weld heat, more CO2 is hotter.A smaller wire diameter, of course with all new settings, will cool things down to a manageable level also.The wire type may have an effect, I understand that E70S-2 freezes faster/is less fluid than E70S-3 or -6.