6013 and Galvanized Welding

admin

Hello,Just wanted a little input on small project on marine trailer welding that is galv. I used a 80 grit sanding disk to remove galv. and attempted to TIG the metals....  however, much popping and irregularities.... metal popped up on my tungsten and made a complete mess of it...  After some research I found that a possible solution would be 6011 or 6013 rod in 1G position. I like my welds to look "pretty" and of course, good penetration. I like the way 7018 lays down and "washes in" ... does anyone have experience using 7018 on galv.??  ... I know that the proper way to do this might be to lay a root pass with 6013 or 6011 , grind that back a bit and then run a pass of 7018. Once the pieces are welded together I will not be able to grind the root pass. Ideas?Thank youKell Jemison
Reply:6010/6011 are the way to go on galvanized metal.  The galvanizing penetrates deep into the metal and that is why it won't TIG even after grinding it off.  When you grind, make sure you grind until you see sparks.  The galvanizing will shine up like good steel, but wont throw sparks if the coating still remains on the surface.  Sometimes on galvanized, I will do the first pass with 6010 or 6011 and that will cook the coating out of the metal which allows me to weld on top of the first pass with 7018.
Reply:I think that is where I went wrong with my tig ...  I sanded / ground until the metal was shiney ... thought that the Galv. was removed... but, apparently not! I will use the 6011 rod and then lay down a 7018 pass. Thanks for your input!Kell
Reply:The problem with gas shield processes or low hydrogen rods is that the shielding prevents the galvanizing from cooking out of the metal.  I've never welded galvanized without grinding with 7018, but every weld I have seen done without grinding and with 7018 cracked.You can sometime cook the zinc out with a torch and an oxidizing flame.
Reply:Well... I fired up my project Syncrowave 300 (Vintage 1981 model!)... found a 50# box of Makay 6013 rod (about 18 years old) and buzzed up the galv. metal. The arc was very stable and produced a very nice weld! No popping or spattering.. just smooth and easy!. I have no idea why the rod, that is about 18 years old, open box... sitting in my garage.... produced such a nice looking weld.... Anyway, mission accomplished ... onto the next one.Thanks for your input... appreciate the advice!Kell
Reply:Just some clarification for other readers - are you stick welding (SMAW) or TIG welding (GTAW) ? Are you trying to GTAW weld with 6013 rods?John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:I thought some one would have said it by now.  DON"T breathe the fumes from Galv.  It will make you sick.  I KNOW.  I always grind the galv all the way off. Then have at it with 7018.DavidReal world weldin.  When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Okay, now i know why my welds don't look like the proverbial stack of dimes.  My rod is too fresh.
Reply:Well ... to clear up all the confusion .. 6013 SMAW process was used in the end. I will send some of this "Magical Rod", aged in small cardboard box, yearly dose of high humidity, and was from a wonderful year for the rod crop circa 1989 - Shop now before we run out. Operators are standing by!  Have fun!Kell