Help Millermatic 180 is to Hot

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GentlemenNoob welder here.New Millermatic 180 setup with .024 wire (6MM) and 75/25 gas.No problem doing the thick materials.Problem is the thin stuff-18 or 20 gage.The molten bead on startup either puddles too heavy and blobs thru or blows a hole on the first touch.My pro mentor has the same problems.He says the machines too hot.Temperature (voltage) is set on "1" Should I get a 110 unit?Application is 18/20 gage body panels only.If I am the problem,let me know.Oldmics
Reply:It's just a practice thing. Try to speed up the wire a little. I usually do a series of spot welds on thin sheetmetal. It's about the only place where trigger welding has good advantages.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Each class of machine and each brand in each class definitely have their effective operating range. If you can look in your operators manual you may find a statement like "30 to 180 amps" or something close. On a 140 amp class you might see "19 to 140 amps", or some such thing. So while what Rojo says is true, sheet metal is very doable with practice, if you plan on a huge diet of this lighter stuff or your main focus is body work you just might find it easier to move down to a 120 volt machine. Just to check out what I'm getting at just cruise around the internet looking at the bottom ends of various makes and models.
Reply:I should qualify all that with this needs to be easily affordable. Wouldn't want you to shed a perfectly good machine if it's a choice of 'either/or'...I just went cruising myself . Looking at the big three. It's going to be tough to find one that has an operating range less than 30ish now. A couple were down to 25 amps. Not much change. Casually look for one of the older 100 class machines.Last edited by Sandy; 08-25-2007 at 12:08 AM.
Reply:Thanks to all who have made suggestions Sandy says"It's going to be tough to find one that has an operating range less than 30ish now."Exactly,the shopmate 300 is a great looking tool -with a hefty pricetag.Which 100 series should I look into?Oldmics
Reply:I had no issues with butt joints on 22 ga with a MM 180. However, I also have close to 20 years of experience. For light ga sheet metal applications I will state the MM 180 is definitely not the best out of the 230V 180 amp compact units. Personally I feel the HH 187 and PM 180C are both a little better. Still though the MM 180 is capable of handling thinner ga materialIf you strictly plan on only welding auto sheet metal. You might want to consider a Hobart Handler 140. Set up with an .023 Hobart HB-28 or Lincoln L-56, this unit has a real soft low end arc that just doesn't want to seem to blow through, even with less then perfect fit up on a butt joint.If you need more then just light ga sheetmetal capability, and don't feel you'll ever be pleased with the low end on the MM 180, I suggest giving the the Hobart Handler 187 at try. It has a real nice arc and weld puddle wet out, through the entire output range of the unit. And as I stated above a nicer low end then the MM 180.The HH 187 does real well on light ga sheet. So if the choice were mine, and I was going to move onto a different unit, I'd stay with a 230V unit , and get the HH 187.It's been a little while since I ran a MM 180 , but I definitely remember I couldn't get a quality arc with C-25 and an .023 wire, with the voltage dial set to 1. For 22 ga., if I am remebering correctly, the dial was set some where around 2. Sorry I can't help more, I field tested the MM 180 , my units are a HH 187 and a PM 180C.
Reply:Sandy says"It's going to be tough to find one that has an operating range less than 30ish now."Exactly,the shopmate 300 is a great looking tool -with a hefty pricetag.Which 100 series should I look into?
Reply:Again,thanks too all for the well thought out replys.When I originally could not get my desired result I originally thought to find a smaller wire.Thinking that a thinner gage wire would generate less heat at the same startup voltage.Kinda reducing the startup voltage by making the wire easier to initially flowRemember -I"m a NOOB  Since I have come to discover that a smaller gage wire does not readilly exist.After Dans suggestions and Sandys confirmation of my research regarding the lowest voltage settings currently availiable on Miller welders,I decided to look for a welder that has a lower scale of voltage ranges.I just bought a Miller Cricket 90 XL unit offa eBay(120153124735)With voltages availiable from the Cricket as low as 16 up to 28 I hope to get the results that I think can be done.No question that you guys with years of experience will always be better at doing what I am trying to do.I am just trying to get into the game with the best tools for the job.Any of you guys have any experience/comments/price I paid ($300.00) about the Cricket and body panel welding.Thanks again,Oldmics
Reply:Well, i've used the Millermatic 251 on 18g and it worked fine.  Just mess with the settings and move FAST.
Reply:Originally Posted by OldmicsI am just trying to get into the game with the best tools for the job.Any of you guys have any experience/comments/price I paid ($300.00) about the Cricket and body panel welding.