Best materials for window/door security

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Hi,Some nice people just helped themselves to my beloved LCD TV (the only thing I had that's worth anything), kicked down the back door.  This used to be a nice area...  Anyway now I need to upgrade my security a few notches.  The basement windows and door are an obvious place to start.  So I am going to weld up some "bars".  I am thinking about maybe 1/4" x 1" flat stock for the frame and then some 3/4" round bar.  What is going to be the best bang for the buck as far as the strongest stuff that is common and cheap?  I can weld up to about 1/4".Thanks
Reply:I hate thieves, nothing worse.The 3/4" round bar would definately work. Thieves aren't usually going to put forth too much effort, it would be too much like working.Miller EconotigCutmaster 38Yes ma'am, that IS a screwdriver in my pocket!
Reply:depends how nice you want it to look. If no ones going to see it Id just use rebar to flatstock lagged or redheaded in. Probably galvanize/ paint it as well. Rebar comes in 1/8th in. increments so #8 rebar is 1 inch, #4 is 1/2 etc. If its going to be something you see everyday might as well make a project out of it and make it look nice, use "real" materials . That and buy a blue healer-they are meaner then $h!t.!!
Reply:Use tubing for the door, if it is used much.  The jamb is the most important for security.  Hence, reinforce your jamb with steel--at least the latch and hinge area.  Typically, 1/2" or 3/4" tubing for bars and 1X2rec. tubing for door frames is used for residential / commercial stuff.  Jail bars are solid.Consider fire safety if the basement is a living area, you need a fire exit.I am really sorry to hear about your misfortune.
Reply:Expanded metal with a flat stock frame works very well foe the basement windows and is quick.Also coper coated lead with a brass case is very effective, I like 45ACP or 40S&W. Me!
Reply:The bar system does not have to be that "strong/stiff".  The attachment to the framing behind the window trim is the important thing.  Use long screws that go over two inches in.  Short screws will be torn out when a boot is put to it.     I was told to put deadbolts and latches high or low.  When a person puts their shoulder into the door they can often break out a deadbolt but if it is higher up the framing just flexes.  Putting you nice electronics in a location that is visible from a window is like baiting a hook.  Also telling your friends and neighbors about the new equipment is not wise.  Everyone has a low life cousin or nephew in the family.
Reply:Thanks everyone.  Good advice all around.  But that is what I expect from you guys!  I am leaning toward some sch 40 pipe .625 OD.  The next size up was .8xx something which seems a little big.  And for the frame I am thinking 1x1 angle or maybe box or rect tubing.  And then some long lags all around.  Oh yeah, and curtains and an alarm...
Reply:Originally Posted by Joe HThieves aren't usually going to put forth too much effort, it would be too much like working.
Reply:I lived in a 3rd. world country for 6 years and there was a case where a Chinese shopkeeper had been burgled many times so he rigged up 240 volts to his burglar bars. He was lucky as his next potential thief survived but was hospitalised for a day, if the POS had died the shop keeper would have been jailed which I don't approve of. You make your choices in life and if you make an illegal one that kills you, tough, you had your choices.Back to the bars, I am generally not impressed by rio bar, I have seen it bent to allow a small child in who then unlocks the door( that happened to us), I would go for the 3/4 and if it is fairly long a strip accross the middle as a stiffener. As has been said make sure the frame is really well located as it too can be ripped out if the dyna bolts are not deep. I would look at a tack on the bolt head too, hard to loosen that way.My 2c worth.CliveLast edited by clive; 10-05-2007 at 03:25 AM.
Reply:one thing you want to consider is fire.  If your doors were inaccessable, you want to be able to get out of the house via the windows.  Also, if you have something specific in the house that the thief wants, you won't keep him out but some sort of security bars on the window will send a random thief to your neighbor.
Reply:I've heard of making the bars from pipe with round bar inside, a saw trying to cut it cuts the pipe then spins the bar not cutting through it, also use through the wall pins with a saftey pin so you can remove the safety pins then push the bars out so you can escape during a fire.
Reply:So now I'm looking at materials.  It appears that 3/4" OD tube with .125" wall costs about 35% more than solid 3/4" hot rolled round bar.  Does that sound about right?  So my question is if I am welding the end of solid 3/4 bar to 1/8" thick angle or box, I assume I set the welder for 1/8" material?  Or do I make any allowance for the fact that one "side" of the weld is so much thicker?
Reply:Perhaps you are looking at 1/2 inch pipe.  If it is pipe, then the price is probably right compared to solid.  Make sure it is 3/4 in tubing--there might be a price difference. Around here 1/2 in. square solid and 1/2 in. 16g tubing are the same price. Above that solid cost more for same size tubing.  16g is what I use most, unless I feel like working out everytime I move a panel.
Reply:This is where I am getting my pricing:  http://www.onlinemetals.com/The have a pretty good FAQ also, toward the end.