help to weld pipe

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I'm just learning to weld pipe in the 6G position with 6" schd 40 pipe eany suggestions would help.I'm having trouble  with the root pass either I blow through or theres a lack of penatration.I have bin trying differnt gaps and different root faces please help.
Reply:what process are you using? MIG, TIG root and fill with mig or 7018 l, 6010 root with 7018 fill, Flux core?As the old timers tell me "ya gotta roll wit it kid"it takes practice, find a comftorable position and run about 250 hours worth, and you should be readyLast edited by drivethruboy54; 06-04-2008 at 12:15 AM.
Reply:Pipe welding in any position takes a lot of preparation, practice, and patience. I'm going to assume that your stick welding. As far as preparation goes make sure both lands on the ends of the pipe where they are being joined are the same width, and both ends of the pipe are square. I use a 1/8" land on each pipe, then I lay both pieces of pipe in a piece of angle iron and clamp them down with a couple of vice grip chain clamps to keep them perfectly aligned while I get my root gap set. As far as root gap is concerned that is something your going to have to play with depending on what size wire your using and the amp. setting your using. I think since you are just learning you should start out with 3/32 wire for the root pass as it will be easier for you to control. I would suggest 6010 or 6011 for the root and then go to 7018 for the rest of your passes. As far as blowing through that's where getting your amps. set just right, your angle and position of wire and your speed just right while welding around the pipe. As I said before it takes a lot of preparation, practice, and patience. Just remember (PMP), Practice Makes Perfect.
Reply:Iam using 6010 for the root , amps around 80
Reply:Up or down with the 6010??I'd rather be hunting........USE ENOUGH HEAT.......Drifting around Aussie welding more pipe up, for something different.....wanting to get home.
Reply:Everyone is diffrent...But this is how I like it...3/32 gap...1/16th land...1/8th in rod and 78-83 amps (depending on your machine...they all vary some)....I like to run hot and push the rod threw the gap to make that key hole do what "I" want it to do!!!   If my gap closes up...STOP...get a zip wheel and open the gap back up or I like to leave my amps where they are and push it threw with 3/32 6010...If its for a test...Grind it open!!!   If my Key hole opens up to much...STOP!!!   let it cool down some...turn your machine down...Be patient...then start again...whip ahead on the bevel to close the joint then continue with your key hole....be mindful of your rod angle!!!   Remember...NO ONE got it the first time everytime...we all make mistakes or have days that you feel like you are welding with your left foot....PRACTICE,PRACTICE,PRACTICE is how you become a good welder!!Good Luck!!Jonesy
Reply:Im welding up hill in my previous post!!!Jonesy
Reply:I used to save my old plastic cover lenses to set my gap. Break them in half and use a piece on each side and clamp with a pipe clamp. I liked the 1/16" landing. I always run a downhill stringer on pipe. Turn it up and cram it in. That is the way 60 and 7010 was designed to be run. Yes, I could do it uphill but it is easier downhill.
Reply:I usually use about a 1/16 to 3/32 land and about a 3/32 gap. Well ends of a couple 3/32 rods, or couple pieces of banding, machete blade, etc. for a spacer. Sometimes just eyeball it and stick it together if it's not a critical joint. Some places require downhill and others uphill. Unless it is strictly prohibited or a tight fitup I run it downhill. All the heat you can stand and cram it in and go. I usually use 1/8 6010 or 6011 at 100 to 120 amps. I would suggest you learn to do it with 3/32. It is easier to control and you will get it down faster. Once you've got it then it is an easy step up to the 1/8. Like most everyone has said practice, practice, practice. It is easier downhill and once you are consistent then the uphill is easy to get.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Many welders do not know how 6010 is supposed to be run.6010 has very little deposit. It is run by moving 1/2 inch then back 3/8, then forward1/2 then back 3/8. Like that. When it is wire brushed it will look simular to a TIG weld believe it or not.3/32 rod - 40--80 AMPS1/8 rod - 70-130 AMPSLast edited by Donald Branscom; 06-08-2008 at 03:40 PM.
Reply:make sure you check on what procedure is required...up or down hill, it is good to know both but practice more on what you need to know to qualify on...rather than what is easiestJonesy
Reply:thank for the suggestions .Time to practice
Reply:Oh man! I have been doing this wrong for 30 years now. Stick to inspecting Donald and not giving advice because he will never get a root in doing that.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jolly RogerOh man! I have been doing this wrong for 30 years now. Stick to inspecting Donald and not giving advice because he will never get a root in doing that.
Reply:i whip all open roots with 6010 and 6011
Reply:When I am on a job and not burning rods I observe the techniques of the other welders around me. Been doing it for 40 (I started watching when I was just a little kid) years now which translates to hundreds of other welders most of them pipe welders or pipeliners. Some were school trained and some went through apprenticeship, some were 798 Union but most were non-union. Now keep in mind that this isn't structural pipe but high pressure lines and heated pressure vessels that are all 100% X-Ray and have yet to ever see anyone whip a root into pipe with 6010. Not saying it can't be done, but real curious how you get the keyhole and keep it going and keep from having inclusions. Might be handy to know someday.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Originally Posted by Jolly RogerOh man! I have been doing this wrong for 30 years now. Stick to inspecting Donald and not giving advice because he will never get a root in doing that.
Reply:i dont work on a pipeline, and out stuff isnt x rayed.  All out stuff is run uphill, no vertical down.Last edited by drivethruboy54; 06-13-2008 at 11:36 AM.
Reply:I run 1/8in land 3/32 gap, 65 amps 6010 5P, my machine runs really hot, hince the large lan and small gap.  I think the set up is truly different from welder to welder and each one likes what they like.
Reply:The key thing here is he is trying to pass a G6 pipe test. I can and have whipped a root pass in though I never considered it to be a proper root in either pipe or plate. In fact I did it this morning, but it was on a fence post and not on a code weld. Although I have never tested a weld with a root that I whipped in just from observing the weld as I put it in leads me to believe that doing it would really increase the chance of inclusions and maybe insufficient or inconsistent penetration. I will not accept a fit like you described on a code weld.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.