I need STICK welding help! (electrodes)

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I new to stick welding and just picked up an inverter. What electrodes are for what polarity? I picked up some 6011 and 7014. 6011 for the dirty. But do i run 6011 with the stinger plugged into the + (positive) with those rods? What about the 7014? Thanks
Reply:I got the 7014 and it runs smooth. The 6011 is very hard to start and when i do get it running it seems like the welds is just a bunch of balls and bubbles but no pentration at all. Thanks
Reply:Both of those rods can be run on DC+ or AC.  What size rods are you using and at what amperage?I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:You really need to get a welding pocket guide so you can look up some of these things,Those big box stores just sell the beginners all the equipment but NO books!!Makes me mad.And i cannot blame many for not taking a class anymore because the prices have gone THRU THE ROOF not including the GASOLINE to get there !So YOU big box stores should sell some pocket welding guides !!!!!AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Yea ill have to pick up one. Im not a beginner to welding. Ive been miggin for 4 years so i know alittle about welding but yea im a noob at stick. Complete beginner. i have been runnin 3/32 6011 on 80 amps? The 7014 ive been using runs like butter. But this 6011 is being a pain. When you mean DC + that means the stinger cable is in the + port. Correct? Thanks for all the help
Reply:Originally Posted by welderShaneYea ill have to pick up one. Im not a beginner to welding. Ive been miggin for 4 years so i know alittle about welding but yea im a noob at stick. Complete beginner. i have been runnin 3/32 6011 on 80 amps? The 7014 ive been using runs like butter. But this 6011 is being a pain. When you mean DC + that means the stinger cable is in the + port. Correct? Thanks for all the help
Reply:It says that i should preheat the 7014 before use. Does anyone preheat the 7014s? I didnt realize it until it said on the back. They seem to run fine with no preheat though? thanks
Reply:7014 has an iron powder coating.  It's not a low hydrogen rod that needs to be kept dry.  It is almost as easy to run as pulling a MIG trigger...strike the arc, keep in contact with the base metal and drag along the joint.  So easy a caveman can do it.  6011 takes more skill.WeldingWeb forum--now more sophomoric banter than anything else!
Reply:7014 will run AC or DC,  + or - polarity.6011 runs best AC or DC + ploarity
Reply:If you have a library near you, it might be worth the trouble to see what older books on welding they have. The older ones concentrated more on stick welding since the other processes were still 'new' or considered more exotic still and the equipment wasn't nearly as well developed for them at first.Some of them have material on metallurgy and other subjects which are worth reading too.In your area, they might even have the really good new books which cover everything; around here, these subjects are looked down upon by the library bureaucrats.
Reply:If you're just learning stick, it might be a good idea to burn 6013.  It's a good low penetration rod with good running characteristics.  Because of the lower penetration it allows you to concentrate on making a good bead without worrying about burnthrough.1/8 6013 can usually be run at around 135amps depending on your machine.  If your welds are high, and bubblegummy, it's probably a sign that you're running too cold.  Turn it up a bit.  Look for heat discoloration on the back side of the weld.  You then know you got enough heat into the weld, unless your working on some really thick stuff.I use 7014 for repairing steel castings.  You should preheat the casting in  order to slow the rate of cooling.  Slowing down the cooling reduces the risk of the weld cracking due to uneven cooling rates.Get ahold of your Lincoln dealer and have him order The Procedure Handbook of Arc Welding.  It's a bit pricey, but well worth it.  It covers all welding process's, procedures, materials, consumables, and a host of other stuff that really comes in handy
Reply:when I started learning to weld, my instructors made me run 6011 for about a week.  When my instructor came and asked me how i was doing with it, i said "well, do you have anything ****tier I could weld with?"  I guess they do, they called it bareflux or something...anyway it takes more skill to make 6011 look good than 70, 80, 110, or 120 wires. It sucks, but from what they say you can stick just about anything together with 6011.  Anyway, it looks like a bunch of balls and bubbles because you have to move your rod forward, and then bring it back, then forward, then back as you travel along making your bead.....thats what makes it difficult to run....."Real power is an arcair hand torch with a piece of 3/4 inch carbon and 1500 amps.  You feel like Zeus throwing a lightning bolt."
Reply:I think that most any rod is about the same.  You hit the root, then push the puddle "back" to build the bead.  It's a constant battle to make sure you have good penetration at the root while building the bead.  If you mess too much with the puddle you wind up with some wierd looking welds.  Keep the rod in there too long, and it builds up too much although you don't see it as you're welding.  You do see it when you flip the helmet up.I found that it's a matter of rythem(sp?)  You find out what works good with a certain hand motion, and stick with it.  Some guys talk about a "V", an some guys talk about a "circle" when they describe their way of making a weld.  I couldn't tell anybody for sure about the way my hand moves.  I just do what I found works.  I also have a tendancy to shove the rod into the work.  I don't do this when welding cast iron with a high nickel rod because I've found they run better with a little gap.  From what I understand, cast iron is about fusion instead of penetration.6011 is a time honored rod with older welders.  I've been told it was one of the first standard rods.  Those guys know how to handle it.  I've never been able to pick up the knack.  I was watching a guy, who is a retired pipeliner, do a vertical up weld with a really nice DC portable welder.  I noticed that he literally burned through the steel, and then built it up as he went up.  You could see the arc blow come out the other side of the fillet.  When he was done, it was a really nice looking weld.  I could never do that in a million years.  I simply don't have the skill, and experience.  It was something to watch.  And he was using 6011.  I simply have never learned how to run it right.  That float is still on the road.  Been over 10 years in service.  Guy that owns it goes up to Kansas to pick up Alfalfa hay for his dairy herd.I'm always amazed at the skill I see in others compared to my lack of same.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI think that most any rod is about the same.  You hit the root, then push the puddle "back" to build the bead.  It's a constant battle to make sure you have good penetration at the root while building the bead.  If you mess too much with the puddle you wind up with some wierd looking welds.  Keep the rod in there too long, and it builds up too much although you don't see it as you're welding.  You do see it when you flip the helmet up.
Reply:weldershane...i'm starting   to see that when i let  the arc get " long" the orange slag puddle can get in front of the weld and make black crusty inclusions..keeping a shorter arc will literally hold the slag back behind the steel puddle(white/silver) and the weld comes out clean..
Reply:Originally Posted by Hammack_WeldingPerhaps i am in the minority, but I can tell a good weld before I ever raise a hood.  When running a bead you should have no problem telling what the puddle is doing.  I can see mine solidifying behind the puddle.  Not all rods are designed to be whipped.  You can whip a 6011, but you do not have to.  The main thing is to watch for a consistent puddle formation behind the arc.  I'm not knocking anyone, but if you have to wait until you raise your hood to tell what your welds look like then you need to learn more about what to look for as the weld is taking place.
Reply:Farmersamm, my post was not to stop you from offering an opinion, and I don;t think badly of you for it.  I understand now what you mean.   I am completely self taught as well, and have been in business for myself for the past 10 years.  I learned what I did from research and doing.  your welds look fine, but I will make a comment it looks like you are whipping your 6013's "back and forth" so to speak.  Try running them in a nice steady forward progression.  It will smooth out the beads abit.  You can whip a 6013 or 7014, but in my experience they are better just run straight out.I'm a Lover, Fighter, Wild horse Rider, and a pretty good welding man......
Reply:ThanksI had another guy, the retired pipeliner, tell me what I guess is the same thing.  He suggested tightening up the bead and making it smaller.  I have a tendancy to make beads a little too wide.  I'm always wanting to add too much filler metal.  I still worry about my design, and the strength of the weld.  I don't know if I'll ever be fully confident with my welding.
Reply:farmer, your beads look like the hold stuff together just fine...the 60ksi electrodes are the only ones I have trouble with because of the movin back and forth.....Looks like you've got it down pretty well."Real power is an arcair hand torch with a piece of 3/4 inch carbon and 1500 amps.  You feel like Zeus throwing a lightning bolt."
Reply:Samm, try smaller beads and multiple passes. I know Lincoln has the pics showing how it's done. Hobart and Miller probably do as well. The codes I generally work with specify a bead width of no more than 2 1/2 times the diameter of the electrode when using sticks. It actually works well and cuts down on booboos. With 60XX electrodes I usually use a circular motion with the tip of the electrode unless I am running vertical or welding pipe. It takes practice and experimentation to get those things to lay down. Most guys I have helped with it try and run too cold. Another thing with them is don't try and stack metal. It just doesn't work well at all.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.